Midwst

you drive the car in tight figure 8's to see if it binds up/shudders. It it does, the car has the dreaded torque bind. Actually, I this car has the beginings of torque bind. when turning slowly into parking lot spaces or out of a parking lot...thats when it feels like its binding up. May be fixable, but fluid looks pretty good and tires are pretty new...matching. someone's already been trying to fix it I think.

This wasn't a normal power steering problem. I've never seen a rack lock up or bind then be okay again. In my experience, it either works right or it doesn't. Maybe it was the AWD instead...because it didn't match normal ps rack behavior.

I test drove a 95 Legacy, 2.2L engine. The power steering fluid was almost empty. I pulled into a parking spot, then when I went to back out, there was a strange moaning noise from the steering rack and the car didn't want to turn at all for a few seconds. Then it was fine. has anyone else ever heard of such a thing? Thanks.

I test drove a 1997 Legacy today with 188K miles. Regarding torque binding, it passed the figure 8 test just fine, but I felt some resistance when making sharp right hand turns...backwards or forwards...into parking spots. What is the difference between normal AWD resistance and torque binding? I know that 4WD systems do have more resistance to turning than 2WD. Maybe I should drive a new Subaru to see? Thanks.

Cougar, that sounds right. Will start with checking the negative ground cable.

Cougar, that sounds right. Time to check out contacts...and maybe a new ground cable. Not real expensive.

Thanks! Yes, the picture would be quite helpful, if you get time.

Has the windshield ever been replaced? I would run some water over the windshield, and front cowl area. That would check both the drain and whole front area of the car. Give you some idea. Good luck.

you're right jfm. Its not standard. Not on a car that new. If its a 2.5L, I wonder if the engine has seen some heat. Maybe the previous owner fixed a head gasket problem, but failed to have the front seals replaced too. A little too warm can cause seals to leak prematurely, but not enough to damage the heads. At 60K it shouldn't be pissing out oil. Subaru was really stupid to leave the old 2.2L behind. It was the best engine subaru ever made, why they switched, I have no idea.

Sounds like a standard cam shaft seal job. Should be done with the timing belt anyway. If its time for a timing belt, do all front seals too.

turn the compressor to one side, than the other. See if any oil drains out. Drain as much as possible. If the old compressor locked up, there may be metal in the system. Special precautions are needed. I am not familiar with Subaru ac systems, but the receiver dryer...which subaru does have...and the TXV valve/expansion valve both can store metal. I think subaru has a txv/expansion valve, check with dealer. Both of these items should be replaced to prevent launching metal debris into the system.

I don't see why you can't use it. People upgrade from R12 to R134a all the time, without changing compressors. Why would this be any different? I would make sure that they "vacuum out" the system for a long time...maybe 45 min or even an hour. also, if you haven't already done so, put electrical tape or duct tape over the openings of the junk yard compressor, to try to reduce the amount of moisture that enters the unit, before install...and don't keep it outside in high humidity. Moisture is bad news in ac.

3 probable causes. Leaking sun roof hose, if you have one. Most frequent cause is a leaking windshield gasket. Have windshield removed by professional and reasealed. DO NOT use silicone to seal up windshiled! Silicone is will interact badly with the sealant used for the windshield and can cause it to leak more. Is the leak water or antifreeze...like a leaking heater core. I assume the car was sitting when this problem developed. If you were driving it in the rain too, thats a whole different set of options.

You probably already know this, but be sure to trace the fluid to its highest point, to find the source. I am assuming you mean where the cable enters the transmission?

Cougar, I think the cable itself shoud have some resistance...but very low. 3ohms is probably too high. Forester, I am reading the voltage at the ignition switch itself...both the battery feed wires going in, and the wires comming out and heading towards the fuse box. All are way too low! Will definately check all fusable links. Since there was a intermitant short on the hot wire that fed the radio fuse,...which I fixed, it is possible that something got fried.

I'm looking for someone who is familiar with the shift linkage on a 91 Legacy, AWD, auto. Or someone who has a factory picture. Mine is binding up. I know there are rust issues. Question: Is there a cable involved? Has anyone ever had to replace the shift linkage? WD-40 or some such thing may be all it needs. When I have the tranny out, I would like to take care of this problem too. If anyone has a picture of the shift linkage, it would be much appreciated. Thanks!!

I agree with Josh. Not normal. Still under warranty. They should fix it.

Junk yard sensor reads .11 alt volts. Okay!! Thank goodness.

The headlights do not come on at all in "on" or "start". I can hear the headlight relay, or whatever it is, buzing. I am only getting 9 volts into the ignition and 9 volts out of the ignition. When I turn it to start, the voltage...in and out...reads about 6.5V. Not enough to crank anything. I am starting to think there is a voltage drop somewhere. Someone mentioned battery feed cable or fuseable link. Can a fusable link be partially bad, but not totally shot? Door ajar light and chime are strong, with the key at "on"...but I guess 9v is adequate to do that. Have to figure out where I'm losing power. 3.5V missing somewhere. Battery is new and fully charged. Connections appear good. Resistance on negative battery wire is 3 ohms..okay I think. all negative cable connections tight, clean. do see mouse droppings!! They can mess things up pretty good!

I wanted to check on the crank shaft pulley bolt size for a 91 Legacy. Is it 22mm? I need to buy a socket for it. Also, would it be okay to add blue medium strength loctite to the oil pump bolts?I don't want them backing out. Someone mentioned red locktite on the crankshaft pulley, with antiseize on the shaft. Will this cause any problems with future removal? Thanks.

Possibilities. The low pressure cut off switch might be kicking in...if low on r134a Or, if the system has been serviced/opened up and not vacuumed out properly, it could be excessive moisture. Or, the vanes in the compressor might be sticking. Try turning it on/off 8 times in a row, see if that helps. Or high pressure switch...if the subaru has one...could be kicking in...multiple causes. Have pressure checked at independent ac place, or even jiffy lube. Not expensive to just check pressures.

I do hear a click, but since the headlights and radio don't work, I'm wondering if its not something else. Usually if the starter is bad, everything else works correctly, it just won't start. Maybe there are 2 seperate problems. But the whole car acts like it is not getting enough voltage, including the starter. Is there any way to test an ignition switch?

I have a question on ignition switch operation. The door ajar light is bright and strong with the ign on accessory, but when the key is turned to start, the light dims badly. Headlights don't work, but battery is fully charged and jumping the car doesn't work. Radio doesn't work right either. sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. heavy static on what should be a clear station. The blower motor for ac makes weird noises. Car acts like it has a low battery, but it doesn't. Car won't start. Sometimes I can hear the starter click, sometimes not, but not enough juice to crank. The only thing I can think that all of these circuits have in common is the battery ground wire, and the ignition switch. I know that the starter gets voltage from both the battery and the ignition switch. Does this sound right? Thanks.

Yes, I tried to open it from the web. Will try the other way. Thanks.

I think the difference is the pigtail wiring harness. Mine is a 3 wire system. i know some use 2 wires. I don't know what is in the 1995 and newer. Junk yard one may or may not be okay. that's the problem with used parts.