cmiller

Finals are done this Friday, then nothing till January 9th.

Ed glad to hear your baby is safe! Sounds like the typical theif, dumb as a rock. He probably drank the beers then drove the car into the curb and bailed. Anyway glad to hear all is ok.

Try asking McBrat on what he can do. He's got a vinyl cutter and makes good decals. Here's the thread.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45969

great spot for the battery! gets it up out of the way. Great work on the engine!

WOW... unbelieveable that he doesn't have anything broken or got pinned under his car. That's a great example of why you should wear a seatbelt.

Nothing too crazy, just some fun. Afterwards the camera battery died...I eventually got up to the saddle which was 2 miles shy of the summit. I was using the soobie plow method up there with snow drifts coming up to the bumper in spots. That was time to turn around since I was by myself and loosing light. alot of fun drifting corners!

I found some snow about 15 minutes ouside of Corvallis... . Down the trail... Where I came from...

Well I'm thinking of heading up to Mary's peak (about 15 minutes out of town) to go see how much snow is up there at around 1:00pm today if anyone is interested. I know Corvallis is swarming with board members! Anyway it tops out around 4,000 ft or so but should be fun! I'll post some pics later on. ...I don't know why this thread was taken out of the Offroad section and put into MeetGreet section...??:-\

Thats a great project! I can't believe that the interior is in as good of shape... Good luck and keep us updated on your progress!

If you are unlucky finding any in the wrecking yards try this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47746 They are very helpful and will save you a bit of money!

Wont work, like above different bolt pattern 5 lug vs 4 lug. For the older Subaru try finding some Peugeot alloy wheels. They come in 14" and 15" with the same 4x140 bolt spacing as the older Subarus. I have 14" alloys on my '92 wagon and they work great! Look better too... Also look for the wheel guide here, it has pictures of several wheel options for your Subaru.

That's lame, someone had to ruin it for everyone...

Welcome to a huge collection of information and knowledgable people willing to help!

always great help at the desk! Thanks Toney!

Sorry for the message being so long, hope it works out. If needed go to their site and under FAQ section you can find this info to print out. Good luck!

Here this is what I found on http://www.thebackyardboys.com Solid jack capable of lifting the wheels 5 inches from the ground. Car body stands… 2 minimum Wheel brace ……19mm for standard wheel nuts/lugs Sockets in sizes 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21mm Spanners/wrenches in the same sizes. Hacksaw/ tin snips Hammer Screwdrivers, 1 of each sort,(flat, star) Multigrips or pliers. Angle grinder for Air-conditioned vehicles Block of wood for cars with A/C. (3x2 about 200mm or 8 inches long) Grease, oil, etc. Rear First Jack car until wheels are about 6 inches from the ground. Place car stands at approx. Subaru suggested jacking position. Remove shock absorbers. 17mm Fit shock extension to bottom of shock. (2x extensions, 2x 85mm bolts w/ nuts, washers) Refit shocks starting at the top. When the top has the bolts in, compress the shock to get the bottom bolt in. Place the jack under the diff/torsion bar. Just take the weight, do not lift. This is only to let the torsion bar assembly down slowly. Remove 4 bolts from the torsion bar (suspension). 2x each side. 17mm Remove 4 bolts from the diff hanger (bar that run. 2x each side. 14mm Lower the jack slowly, watching the brake lines for tension. If the lines become tight, relieve them by freeing them from the wrap over tabs at the torsion bar end of the swing arms. Sounds technical, but actually very easy to do. Place lifting blocks in place on the torsion bar. Put the bolts in finger tight only. Raise the torsion bar if needed. When all 4 bolts are started correctly, tighten them. Place passenger's side (driver's side in U.S.) lifting block on the diff hanger. Block marked "standard". Fit bolts finger tight. Fuel filler side has holes offset to accommodate fuel tank. However you still need to fold the lip on the tank down out of the way. With multigrips/pliers, fold about 18-20mm-3/4" of the lip down. Take your time. Tank will not leak because of this. Fit kit and bolts, making sure of correct threading of the bolts. Tighten all 4 bolts. Refit wheels, jack car, remove stands, lower…… Check exhaust system. Standard system should be OK, sports /after market system may need to be adjusted. Almost too easy wasn't it. I bet the back end of your car looks pretty high. First up Before you actually start the front there are a few things you need to do first. Undo the bolts on the steering arm at the column and at the rack. 12mm. Remove the arm later. Remove engine stabilizer bar Vehicles fitted with a standard air filter system must shorten the intake to allow clearance for the radiator hose. This can be done on the vehicle with a hacksaw. REMEMBER; place a rag/cloth inside the filter to avoid filings entering the fuel system. Cut approx. 75 mm/3" off infeed, filing when finished to remove burrs. Remove sump guard/bash plate if you have one fitted. Check the length of battery cables/wires, generally they are long enough standard. There is also an earth wire from the gearbox to the firewall. It will probably be too short. It is not essential, but replace if you wish. Air-conditioned vehicles need to remove the compressor from its brackets. DO NOT RELEASE GAS, the hoses are long enough to work with them intact. The underside of the compressor has 2 lugs hanging down. Remove these with an angle grinder. With a block of 3x2 wrapped in a rag/cloth (about the same length as the compressor) fold down the panel work directly below where the compressor sits. It doesn't need much, you are only creating a bit of clearance. It can be quite awkward to do, but it must be done. Remove lower radiator hose. Front Kit Jack car as before, placing car stands just behind the front wheels. Remove wheels. Place jack beneath the engine cross member directly behind the sump/oil pan. Take the weight. Do not lift. Undo the nuts on the ends of the cross member where it bolts to the sub frame. 2 bolts each side. 14 mm tube socket required. Leave bolts in place. Undo 3 bolts each side on the radius rod plates. (located near the gear box cross member) Radius rod is the 19mm round bar that runs from the lower control arm towards the back of the car on a slight angle inward. It is at the back end of this rod where you will find the 3 bolts. IMPORTANT; leave the back 2 bolts in place with a few threads. This stops everything moving all over the place. Release the jack enough for the cross member to come down to fit the kit.The bolts you left in before are a guide to how far you let the jack down. When one side has passed the bolts, stop. Remove the bolts from that side. You will have to remove the Philips head screw from inside the engine bay holding the plate in that the bolts are attached to. The bolts need to be removed from the plate once you have it out of the car. An old house brick with a hole in it, or a bench vice etc will be needed to remove the bolts. Simply turn them upside down and tap the bolts out with a hammer. Put the plate back in the car and refit the screw. Drop the new bolts down through the holes (2x 3/8", 1x 1/2") Now sit where the wheel goes. Lift the bolts up one at a time to get the kit in. Start at the front and work your way back. Fit nuts and washers finger tight only. Repeat for the other side. Do not tighten. Remove the last 2 bolts from the radius rod plates. Lower enough to get the kit in. Do both sides together. Fit the kit and bolts. Make sure you have not cross-threaded any bolts by winding them in as far as you can by hand. Tighten all bolts. WARNING take care in tightening the front cross member bolts. They are big bolts and you will easily crush the sub frame in your car if you do not watch what you are doing. Steering extension can now be fitted. Try to get the wheels in line with the steering wheel. It is most likely you will have to align it again later. Struts The first step here is to undo the bolts retaining the strut to the knuckle. These are found at the lower part of the strut. There are 2 - 14mm bolts on each strut. One short one at the front and a longer one running across the car, being removed from the inside. Remove the brake line-housing clip. It is located on the strut towards the inside. It just slides out of the housing. Now pull the brake line through the housing a little to create some slack. With tin snips or a hack saw, make a horizontal cut at the bottom of the housing in line with the lower edge of the hole. You will now be able to fold the brake line housing out to remove the line from the housing. This is so you do not have to bleed your brakes when you take the struts out. See attached picture. Put a short stumpy flat blade screwdriver in the slot at the rearward side of the knuckle. Tap it with a hammer until the knuckle drops off the end of the strut. Undo the top of the strut 2x 14mm nuts. CARE MUST BE TAKEN to notice which way the tops of the strut face when you remove them. They have specific ways for different model cars. Make sure you know how yours were fitted when you remove them. There is an arrow on top; this is what you are looking for. There will also be markings, 4wd, 2wd, van, etc. Fit the tower tops to the struts with the nuts and washers that came from under the bonnet. I supply new "Nylok" nuts for the top of the kit. Pay attention to the arrows that I mark on the kits. The arrows always point in towards the motor. Grease the bottom of the strut to make it easier to refit. Refit the struts starting at the top. Put the nuts on finger tight. Put your foot on the wheel hub and push down; at the same time align the strut with the knuckle. This can take a fair sort of a push with your foot at times. It is a lot easier than removing ball joints. Re fit wheels, jack, remove stands, lower. Fit the extended engine stabilizer. Radiator hose will need to be shortened. A little at a time and you won't be running down the road to buy a new one. *Re fit air conditioning. Check throttle cable for tension. It should have about 5-6mm of slack. Re check all hoses and wires for tension. I find they are normally all ok. Check List All bolts must be re tightened in about a week. 4wd lever may be sitting a little higher than normal. It can be rectified but it really isn't worth worrying about. Check air filter misses the radiator hose. Front wheels will be sitting exactly the same as before the struts came out if you followed the instructions carefully. Check them after you have taken it for a drive. If they are on a bad angle you have fitted the struts incorrectly and need to remove and refit them properly. There is no half way with the wheels and this kit. You will see that the wheels are right or if they are wrong they will be wrong in a big way. Very noticeable. Very easy to do. (I have fitted them backwards my self not thinking about what I was doing.) Pain in the arse to have to pull them out and do again. Straighten steering wheel if necessary.

I think I lost sleep because of not getting my nightly fix of USMB. What was the deal with the bandwidth lacking?

Is the kit a certain brand, (AA, BYB, Mudrat...) or home job? Without knowing where it came from its hard to give directions even though they may be somewhat similar. Let me know and I can dig up some info for ya.

I still think that the Malarkey ranch has everything to offer. Scappoose is just down the road if anyone needs to run to town for something. Plus the trails and big fields and bogs are perfect for a Subaru terrain park.

Understandable, didn't mean to step on anyone's toes. Please look into this idea for its potential. Thanks for all of the hard work allready done to make the WCSS the awsome event that it is! -Chris

I posted a thread in the Rallitek forum to see what people there think. Hopefully Sean from Rallitek will give his input as another major supporter and sponsor of the WCSS. http://rallitekforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2793

I agree with Jibs, its totally doable. James what do you think? Move with it?

No Ed, you are right on. At the October ORG meeting that was one of the topics of discussion to have a few events on the property. It has great fields for rallycross. Anyway there is plenty of potential for WCSS8 to be held there. If anyone has any suggestions or comments on this topic of WCSS8 locations please feel free to share them since we have awhile before the next show.

There is all of that there. I got a "tour" from James in his wagon. The terrain is awesome for mud and trails. It is located along the Willamette River so it can get good and muddy. plenty of spots to break things and getting stuck:brow:

If some one could pass the idea on to the Rallitek guys that would be great. -Chris