cmiller

The last thing I need to do is to figure out the temp gauge. Has anyone wired in the 275 Ohm resistor to make the temp gauge read accurately? I tested an EJ thermistor and it read about 2000 Ohms versus the EA read at 800 Ohms. Any thoughts on this? I know Numbchux put in the write up that it could work on paper.

My '92 Loyale now has an EJ22 under the hood. Motor is out of a '92 Legacy wagon with 90K. More info with lots of pics of the process at this thread.

Ok here are some updated pics of the finished EJ22 swap: EJ22 motor is in and working great! I'm using the EJ top half of the air box and the EA lower half so I can retain the factory mounting position. There are some tabs welded on the EA lower box to allow the EJ top to be bolted up nice and clean. I used the EJ power steering lines from the pump down to the EA hard lines on the engine cross member because it routes best (obviously) on the EJ motor. I used a tube bender to make the fit. Bolted right up and is in the factory position. I had to get the EJ sized inlets brazed on to my EA radiator to make a proper fit. Then for hoses I used the EJ top and bottom radiator hoses and added another hose for the extra bend both top and bottom. I connected these with a section of exhaust tubing acting as a coupler. The EA throttle cable bolts right up to the EJ no probs. The SJR EJ adapter plate has two tabs on top for a pitch stopper. Scoobyclimbs fabbed up a bracket to bolt to this and then shortened the EA pitch stopper to fit. Turned out nice and clean. With the EJ22 you definitely want to have some kind of pitch stopper other wise you are putting unnecessary stress on your mounts and drive line from the motor moving around under acceleration or letting off. The main part of the EJ harness that hooks up to the motor I ran in the factory EA position through the drivers front fender. and the other half of the EJ harness that has the igniter and MAF cables I ran through the hole behind the drivers side strut tower. It sealed up nicely and looks clean. Of course take the time to wrap everything with split loom and tape so you don't have problems later on. For exhaust you need to use 2 1/4" all the way through to keep decent flow but not loose too much grunt. I have a high flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler nicely tucked up and out of the way. It sounds great with a nice low Subaru rumble but is not obnoxiously loud like a Honda wet fart can. (yes that is a torn axle boot piece hanging on the axle.) I put two pusher radiator fans up front, one wired up to the ECU and the other on this switch here. Good to have it on for hot days or slow driving in city or on trails. Overall this swap was not bad. And now after doing this I can see it being done in a weekend if you have everything set aside and ready. The hardest part for me was the wiring mainly because its not my specialty. However, Numbchux labeled everything great on the EJ harness and there are plenty of resources here to get it done right. Asking questions and getting an extra hand helped alot. It was a great learning experience for me because of the wiring. I am no mechanic by trade, just a do-it-yourself guy with the proper tools. I would highly recommend this swap to anyone that can do it. The EJ motor runs so smooth and is way easier to work on. Everything seems so much better designed over the crappy, gutless EA82 motors, (that's why Subaru fired everyone that designed the EA motors and started with a fresh team on the EJ). My Loyale has tons more torque and power. I can cruse smoothly on the freeway up hills in 5th gear with a fully loaded car and still accelerate if needed. Never experienced this before with the EA82, as I would have been in 3rd or 4th gear at 5000 rpms just screaming along at a slow pace. So quit putting it off and do the swap. It so worth it and makes for a happy driving experience! The EJ22 breathed new life into what was once a tired, gutless, poorly designed turd!:banana::banana: Also feel free to ask me any questions about the swap. I figure that I can pass on what was shown to me. -Chris Thanks to Scoobyclimbs for some sweet fabrication and good help, Numbchux, Mellow65, and Pooparu for your help with my questions. And thanks to Lewis at Mountain Tech Subaru for fixing my fuel pump wiring that I screwed up and for a sweet EJ22 motor! I hope I'm not forgetting anyone!

Lewis from Mountain Tech Subaru came over after work last night and sorted out the fuel pump issue. Yes, I had it hooked up wrong and the fuel pump was switching off after cranking. Anyway we got it going and this morning I drove it down to Exhaust Specialties in Tualatin to get the exhaust made up. I'll post up some detailed finished pics later on today.

Sorry, I was pulling what info they had posted on the Mt. Hood Rally website and it only went to the top 8 cars for their live updates.

I'll try the "Hot wire" the fuel pump idea tomorrow and see if it will idle. Hopefully thats the issue and its just some dumb thing with my wiring of the fuel pump that is causing all of this.

I started it with the MAF and IAC each unplugged and it didn't change a thing. Just fires up then dies in 2 secs. :-\

Ok, so I've re-wired the starter signal wire to the black wire with the red stripe coming off of the starter solenoid. I tried to start it up again and nothing has changed. Still dies after a couple of seconds. Also I checked the codes again and now the CEL just flashed constantly... Just FYI there is no exhaust on this except for the headers, no cat/O2 sensor, nothing. But that shouldn't make a difference here... I'm running out of ideas other than the IAC is toasted or out of adjustment even thought the factory paint on the screws hasn't moved. If the timing were off would it react like this? Any other thoughts?

Ok, thanks. I'll just put a T in one of the lines coming off of the black vaccum canister behind the passenger side head light. I'll look into this and run the starter signal wire off of this. Its sounding like this is the issue. I have all the PCV and IAC lines hooked up properly. Could the Idle Air Control be bad or out of adjustment? The factory paint on the screws is intact so nobody has messed with it, should I try adjusting it? I'm assuming the SPFI Loyale fuel pump is sufficient? Do I need to get a MPFI Turbo fuel pump? Thanks for your help.

Do you have a pic of this? not quite sure what you mean here, sorry. I can hear the Fuel Pump turn on when the key is on. So I know its working. The power for it is coming off of the old EA ECU harness. I'm pulling it from a wire marked Ignition Switch, pole 38 on the large plug for the EA ECU pinout sheet. All of my vacuum hoses are hooked up and fluids are perfect. There's just something that I can't seem to find that is keeping the motor from running more than a couple of seconds. I'm keeping at it all day but if anyone has any other suggestions or is available to call me please let me know. It's frustrating when you're so close...

I switched MAF sensors and tried to start it again. It fires right up runs for 2 secs and then dies, even faster when I give it throttle, same as last time. Don't know what to do there. Also I checked the codes and I'm getting a "Code 12" which I'm guessing is the starter switch or circuit? How would that effect it from idling when it fires right up?

Anyone know what this vacuum canister is? Do I need to keep it in with my EJ22? It had a line coming off of a EA sensor module on the motor. Where did you EJ swap guys put this into on the EJ motor? Thanks!

Here's a few pics: Engine in and running Using the EA lower half of the air box with tabs welded on to accept the EJ top part of the air box and a K&N panel filter inside. Also just used a small tube bender to mate the EJ power steering lines to the EA lines on the engine cross member. They hooked right up perfectly.

I agree, a re-seal is way too easy to pass up. You can pull the motor, re-seal it, and drop it back in all within a day, easy, done, no worries.

That is exactly what its doing, open throttle and... blah...dead. But even just sitting there it will die on its own. So I'll check the codes tomorrow and see whats up. Thanks again for your help.

IT'S ALIVE!!:banana::banana::headbang::headbang: I was missing a couple of relays and also had the wire from the fuseable links grounded instead of hot. (Duh). It fired right up first try! The only thing now is it won't idle so I'm thinking it needs the O2 sensor and a cat on or the maf sensor is bad. I'll try swapping these out to see what's up. Scoobyclimbs was a great help today in helping me problem solve the mess. I have video and will post it up a little later along with some pics as soon as I finish putting it all back together. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions. I would still really like to see how you guys kept A/C with this EJ swap so if you have any pics please put em up. I just don't see the room for the condenser and radiator fans.

I got the switched 12V from the ingnition switch wire going to to the old EA ECU. My problem is that the EJ harness is powered fine, just to power to the rest of the car, All connections to the EA fuse box are dead...

Hey Numbchux, there is a pigtail on the EJ harness that you have wires labeled Fuel Pump and Switched 12v on it. Also there are a bunch of yellow wires on the same pigtail going to a tan plug (6 wires) and a light green plug (4 wires). What are these two plugs for?

Or maybe just time for some new tires...? Bald tires and wet gravel seem to be the contributor here.

I did remove the wires that were hooked up to the EA coil. It looked like there was a power feed from this to the harness because it had an inline fuse. Could this be the culprit?

Yep, no power past the firewall. No head lights, dome light, dash lights, or anything. When the key is on nothing happens. No lights anywhere. Very confusing...

Results here: http://www.rallydata.com/Results/MtHood_2009_ClubScoreBoard.htm

Starter is getting power, fused links are fine, just no power to the interior harness. So ECU doesn't know when the key is on. hmm... So tomorrow more trouble shooting and hopefully get it started!

Top 8 CARS after SS 4: Mager Leads, Svedin +0:26, Eklund +0:03, Buren +0:22, Garth +0:06, Goodwi +0:25, Mark T +0:40, Beck +0:01

I'm going to try and triple check everything again today to see what went wrong. It would be great to see another EJ swapped EA rig to compare to.