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I'll assume you are positive you changed the correct coolant thermo sensor not the temp sensor for the dash gauge.

Phiz, as you know a diode is a one way street for electrons a "check valve "in H20 parlance. When bad... They can turn into an open circuit thus allowing no passage of current but they can also turn into a two way street allowing current in both directions. This is probably what happened to the regulator in the bad alt.

Hi Jesse, by chance did you look through this post on the same subject? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93745&highlight=weber

check the second fusible link it has a black with white tracer wire the fusible link needs to be tested with a multimeter they are located behind the battery in a small black box mounted on the washer bottle. This link is used to power the headlamps, both sides.

Thanks Mick,that would explain it for sure.

I forgot to add to read the codes the ignition switch must be in the run position withOUT the engine running. Hope this helps.

Welcome to the USMB Drew To read the codes you must lower the panel that is above your knees when driving. Located up beside the steering col. is the ECU. On the end facing you is a small hole In this hole is an LED which is called the 02 moniotr. The ECU looks like this This LED will flash the stored codes when you plug together the two white connectors located under the hood by the driver's side hood hinge. For what the codes are Read here. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ With respect to your head light problem IF you do not have high beams! This car uses two separate systems for the left and right headlamps. For both to be out you need a common to both systems. This common could be the a) headlamp switch the grounding point of the head lamps This ground is located behind the coil on the inner fender. Note please, the headlamps are NOT wired as they are on American made cars. They are wired with a switched ground. The lamps you want to light (high or low beams) are controlled by switch the ground to the lamp NOT the hot as in domestic cars. Here is the headlight diagram if it helps?

are you positive you are addressing the fuel injection coolant thermosensor and not the coolant sensor for the dash gauge? You could test the resistance of the sensor if you remove it and use some heated water.

With a fuel cut defender and extra injector I run 15 PSI not real eff. at that level but she runs strong EGT unknown

Jonathan - look at the main page for the forum you want to put a theard in On the left side a few lines down will be a symbol that says "New Thread" Click that. I have never heard of this many grounds causing a problem but Subiemech was right when he ask if your cleaned ALL the gounds that you said you had. "Ground issue? I cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay." Guess you have been so busy cleaning ground you didn't bother checking for spark at the plug. Good luck sir, you'll get it. Keep on cleaning grounds. I wonder if the FI coolant temp sensor has a ground? Maybe you should clean it?? This sound related to a Fuel injection coolant temp sensor. Remeber I ain't no subiemech " When it was running, it got harder to start as the temps dropped... cranked and cranked before finally firing"

For being a "Subie mech" he sure knows how to confuse people. There is no reason your ignition timing is off unless you removed/moved the distributor. Which I do not believe you mentioned doing. You cleaned the appropriote grounds. The test connectors you mention are correct. When setting or adjusting the ignition timing the green connectors must be connected. You need a timing light to set this. IF you have changed it. IF not ignor this. You made it 200 miles !!! The timing marks are on the back of the flywheel seen through a small window (may have a rubber plug on it) on the pass side of the rear of the engine. Connect the green connectors, connect the timing light shoot at the opening and crank to start. 20 deg BTDC The 22 mm he refers to is the size of the socket used to turn the crankshaft bolt (most of us UN techs use a 7/8") Have you checked for spark at the plugs? Pull a plug reconnect the wire, lay it on the block or a good ground and crank it - nice blue white spark? If it is gas fouled the plug you pull will be wet with gas. Try cleaning or replacing the plus

Sorry Scooby, no relay on his car... that is why I said to add one is an option. All the rest of your advise is very sound. Ray, this is a common problem. Many add a relay as shown below, this has been a fix I have personaly used on about a half dozen of my own Subys and has never given me problems. The relay is available at any parts place. Many say fix it right and spend the 100 bucks on a starter or much less on starter solenoid contacts. Then sometimes it turns out to be the ig. switch? Which is a bit harder to replace due to anti theft screws used. Some say add the "never fail" button The button is wired to do what Scooby says to do with the hot wire with the exception the wire runs through a monentary (button) switch mounted under the dash. I will add a wiring diagram if you need. Here is how to add the starter relay most cars have and Subaru neglected to add. Hope this helps, if you want to PM me about this please do so quickly as I leave for FL in a day and will not be around much.

It's all kewl Twitch I just didn't want our man here going out and disconnecting his power brakes thinking it would fix his problem. ;^)

John, since this is the case the optical sensor in the dist is good, if it were not you would see no spark anywhere. Sensor is large black box at the bottom side Pull down the panel that is above your knees when driving. Up next to the steer. col you will see the ECU The end of the ECU will have a small hole in it with a LED down inside. It is called the 02 monitor That is the place to read the codes. Since the CEL is flashing, turn the key to on (don't start it) and read the code.

Sorry Twitch it does not work that way unless you have a faulty vacuum brake booster. The idle may fall for a second then should recover. (it's connected to the intake manifold not the air cleaner)