alias20035

You can NOT use snow chains on ANY OUTBACK, and this is stated in the rear of the owner's manual in the "tire maintainance" section. The Outback tires are bigger and as a result the chain will get stuck between the tire and strut assembly potentially causing significant damage. Subaru really should make this fact a little more obvious, even the dealers seem to oblivious to it. Non-Outback Subaru's can use snow chains on the front tires for short distances and speeds of 20MPH or so. It is not just a tire diameter issue, it is also a tire width issue, Outback tires are 225mm wide, Legacy's are either 195 or 205mm. The height of the tire grows in proportion to the width, ex. 225/60-16 means the the diameter is 60% of 225mm times 2 plus 16 inches. So as the width increase so does the diameter, unless the profile (the 60 part) decreases. If you live in a "Snow Chain Area", your only recourse is to install snow tires that have the mountain/snowflake logo. Winter/snow tires with this logo are EXEMPT from snow chain requirements. Get a good set of winter tires such as the Michelin Arctic Alpin, Bridgestone Blizzak, Yokohama Guardex, or the like. Just make sure that the tire has the mountain/snow flake logo. Installing the tires on dedicated rims is the recommended solution as it is much easier and inexpensive to swap the tires each spring and fall, and it also protects the alloy wheels from salt damage.

Hopefully someone can confirm my hypothesis on how the IAC works: 1. The vacuum of the intake manifold acts like a spring to rotate the IAC valve to a closed position. 2. The ECU sends pulses of electical current to the magnetic cap over the IAC. The greater the frequency of the pulses, the more the IAC rotates open. This magnetic "opening" force counteracts the intake vacuum's "closing" force. 3. When no or low vacuum (throttle open) the valve rotates fully open, which is why the idle speed remains high for a second or so after the throttle is closed. The ECU probably opens the valve when the throttle is depressed and gradually closes it until the desired idle speed is obtained. This would prevent stalling and an abrupt change to idle speed. Its been seven years since I had my 93 Legacy's IAC apart, but I was very suprised to find that the valve seemed to be freely rotating component with no springs or the like and the cap was totally sealed. The cap does adjust, and I guess that this is to make fine adjustments to the idle speed. I marked my IAC with a paint pen before removal and replaced it in the exact same location. The above hypothesis would also explain why any minor contamination would cause problems. On my 93 the IAC was coated in a very fine film of engine oil, so probably at one point the oil was overfilled and some was sucked into the intake. I had also diagnosed a bad PCV valve shortly before my IAC problems.

Idle Air Control It is a magnetically controlled valve controlled by the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) to allow air into the engine when the throttle is closed. Since fuel is pumped in to match the air sucked in, the ECU is able to adjust how open the IAC is to control idle speed when your foot is off the accerator and the throttle plate is closed. It replaces the idle speed set screw (screw to set minimum throttle opening) and cold operation idle adjuster that are present on carburators. Some less sophisticated fuel injected cars still use a screw type idle adjuster, but the Subaru EJ series engine was state of the art when introduced in 1989 and in almost all respects still is today. The IAC is located on the left side of the throttle body (looking from the front), it has a round top and has a wiring harness. When the IAC is dirty or defective, it can be slow to respond and not open in time to prevent stalling when you release the accelerator pedal. It can also malfunction when the ECU tries to open it to raise idle speed when the A/C cuts in.

All Legacy Wagons (Sedans too?) new and old use 6.5" speakers in all four locations. What kind of rear speakers do you mean? Main or subwoofer? I think your Brighton had four speakers from the factory? The rear main speakers will be either in the rear doors or on the top of the shock towers in the cargo are. See these posts for more info: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7977 http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7141 http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8007

Any speaker with a top mount depth of less than 2 1/4 inches will fit. And deeper and it will interfere with the window glass and mechanism.

Just a few points to add to this discussion: Fuel pumps are supposed to be submerged in fuel to cool them. By running the fuel level down until the low fuel light comes on a consistant basis will wear out the fuel pump a lot faster because there needs to be 4-5 gallons of fuel to completely submerge it and keep it cool. Also in winter, you should always keep the tank above 1/2 full to reduce condensation in the tank which can cause fuel lines to freeze, and fuel tank corrosion. Both my 93 Legacy and 01 Outback have somewhat erratic fuel gauges, but the 93 was really erratic, on some occasions I would get 400 km on the first 1/4 of the tank, and then only another 150 before the tank was empty. I took the senders out, inspected and cleaned them up (they were quite clean already), and the gas gauge was only a little more accurate. I use my trip odometer religiously to track my mileage, and to cross check the fuel gauge reading. I just round to 10 liters/100 km to know roughly how much fuel is in the tank.

The 4EAT transmission is very reliable, it is the poorly designed AWD tailshaft that causes most of the problems. The "version 1" 4EAT transmission has a steel part that moves against aluminum, and the result is wear to the aluminum and loss of hydraulic pressure in AWD system causing torque bind. Subaru's tailshaft (torque transfer clutch) rebuild kit for your older Subaru will fix the AWD section of your transmission permanently (while not quite, but far better than the original design). The rebuild uses a steel sleeve to protect the soft aluminum, and thus the problem is fixed forever..... Duty solenoids will still occasionally fail though. I find the the 4EAT version 1 transmissions always develop torque bind at 140-200,000 km regardless of how they are treated, the aluminum case just seems to give up at this point. The version 2 4EAT transmissions (with the spin off ATF filter) don't suffer the "torque bind" problem due to case wear, they just occasioanally need a new duty solenoid. Thankfully the problem is well known, reasonably easy to identify and not horrendously expensive to repair ($750-900).

I would guess that water pump or its gasket (or the thermostat gasket) is leaking. But you are also due (or past due) for radiator and heater hose replacement. It is possible that the water pump internal seal has failed and the coolant is coming from the water pump drip hole, was the pump a rebuilt one? I don't like the rebuilt water pumps, especially since I can get a brand new one for only $10-20 more. Did you do your regular coolant changes (2 years/30,000 miles) and use a good coolant and add water pump lubricant? Old coolant, and coolant without sufficient lubricating properties will wear the water pump seal very quickly.

You've got it all covered.... So long as the filter is only "taller", it will work. I am not sure whether there would be any significant improvement. The H6-30 flows a lot more oil than your EJ18 and needs that bigger filter. The use of an oil pressure gauge would really help determine any benefit. The oil pump in the EJ series engines is very good (aside from backing plates occasionally coming loose). It is not at all like the notoriously bad oil pump in the EA81/2 engines. I run Mobil 1 Synthetic, and often run 8,000 or even 10,000 km between oil changes, Subaru recommends 12,000km except in extreme use (extreme use pretty much applies to everyone though). 90% + of my driving is on the highway which really does not "dirty" the oil to the extent that city driving does. I had one used oil analysis performed after 8,000 km and the oil was rated in extremely good (almost new) condition, good for at least another 8,000km, but I had already dumped the oil already (I dumped and tested the oil to determine if I had coolant leaking into the oil (I didn't)). I have also cut used oil filters apart and they are always very clean. Today's engines are VERY clean and today's oils are VERY good, but the filters???? Rather than using a "bigger" filter, why not use a "better" one. Finding out which one is "better" is not easy though. From experience I know that Fram and Purolator filters cause clicking lifters on hydraulic lifter equipped EJ series engine. I used Bosch on my 1993 Legacy EJ22 almost exclusively without any problem. On my 2001 Outback I have used Bosch, K&N and I now have a Wix on it. I don't notice any difference in start up and running oil pressure with any one of them though ( I added an aftermarket oil pressure gauge with low/high pressure alarm to my 01 OBW). There are some web sites devoted to dissabembling oil filters and rating them. Try http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ Most European cars will now run Synthetic oil for 30,000km or more, with only intermediate oil filter changes and engine oil analysis every 6,000 km to determine when the oil is going to go bad. This practice should be crossing the Atlantic to our shores sometime soon when used oil analysis labs become more commonplace. You actually have to test the oil in a lab to determine if it has gone bad, it is not something you can determine by mileage anymore.

Thats my guide!! It is not quite complete (I am currently on version 0.2). I need photos and instructions for removal of the console trim plate around the 4EAT transmission. I am fairly sure that this console plate just pops off like it does on the 5MT model. If you have the 4EAT and a digital camera can you post photos to this thread so I can add them to the guide?

The transmission bearings are probably gone, my 93 Legacy was noisy in neutral (and in any gear) and I had problems with the synchros as well. My bearings went and the resulting gear misaligment and friction caused the synchros to fail. I did run well over 200,000 km with the noisy transmission though. The Haynes guide shows how to dissassemble the transmission but does miss some key points such as bolt torque and how to adjust gear mesh. You might be far better off getting a used transmission for your car. I was quoted over $500 CAD in parts plus another $500 CAD in labour, while a used transmission with 48,000 km on it was only $275 USD including shipping. You should be able to find a transmisison shop with a rebuilt tranny to install, they will then take yours and rebuild it for the next guy.

You are probably killing your battery by demanding more power than the alternator can deliver. Your alternator produces about 40-60 amps of "spare" power for things like audio systems, heated seats, etc. 40-60 amps is not enough for you..... When you repetitively drain cranking batteries more than 10% of their capacity you destroy them. Cranking batteries have thin plates that allow for much higher cranking power, while deep cycle batteries have thicker plates for durability to allow regular deep cycling. The Optima Yellow Top is an awesome battery, and will suit your needs perfectly. I would suggest an voltmeter and ammeter to monitor your battery charging. You should not be drawing on battery power on a regular basis. Change the battery since it is toast, and consider getting a larger amperage alternator. The Subaru alternator can be rebuilt with some high amperage kits that fit Nissan alternators, find a good auto electric shop and see if your 85 amp alternator can be rebuilt into a 140 amp one. You will have to upgrade the the following wires as well: Battery negative terminal to chassis (ground), engine to chassis (ground), alternator positive to battery positive (I think this is a fused link?), and maybe a few other wires (all wires responsible for charging the battery MUST be upgraded to handle more current). I don't know much about the Optima blue top. Watch the terminal orientation, some Subaru's are reverse terminals, I tried to transplant a battery from my 85 GL to my 93 Legacy and could not because the terminals were in reversed positions on either car.

I was not trying to do a direct comparison, just noting that Acura produces a low volume "show car", and that would be what the B11S becomes. The B11S would be a close match for a Nissan Z, or Mazda RX-8 in terms of size and seating (2+2), but the B11S is a much heavier sports touring car (something like 3700 lbs!).

You have to carefully inspect the aligment of the entire drivetrain and for signs of impact (scratches, dirt worn off, leaking seals, etc). If the rear subframe has been impacted, it can often push the driveshaft into the back of the transmission or do damage to the U joints and hanger bearing. On some occassions drivetrain problems such as leaks and vibrations show up quite a while after the damage is repaired. So be sure that everything is very carefully checked out, as dealing with an insurance company after a claims settlement for "hidden" damage is usually an effort of futility. It sounds like the rear end of the monocoque did not take too much of an impact (the bumper took the brunt of it) which is very good. Does the tailgate still open and close properly? If not the rear monocoque may need quite a bit of work. You see the real damage when the bumper comes off. I would have the exhaust system changed from the joint one ahead of the first one ahead of the damage (up to the joint under the driveshaft/transmission in your case?). The exhaust pipe around the rear suspension may have been stressed, even though there is no apparent damage. Before any serious work begins I would put the four wheel alignment gear on and that would tell you if the suspension took a hit (it sounds like it did not though). Since the rear stabilizer is behind the rear suspension, the frame mounts may have been hit, inspect them. Inspect the gas tank, in particular where the filler pipe enters the top of the tank. I have seen many Subaru gas tanks develop a leak on the filler pipe after an accident, even though the damage did not impact the gas tank or filler. The gas tank seems to shift and the filler pipe bends making it very susceptible to rust causing a leak. Gas tank leaks one or two years after an accident have occured to many of my friends Subaru's, while non-accidented Subaru's don't seem to have this problem. I am not sure if the evaporative emmisions system is behind the right rear tire like it is on the Legacy/Outback. I would change the whole evaporative emmisions canister and associated hardware for safety reasons. When any body panel is repair it will become VERY susceptable to corrosion on the inside. The accident and subsequent repair do a lot of damage to the galvanizing and factory rust proofing. I recommend yearly treatments of RustCheck/Ziebart or other rust proofing agents if the car is exposed to road salt or in a salt air environment (100 miles of an ocean). Most body shops will treat the inside of any panel with a thick coat of rust preventive spray after the paint is dry, ask about this.... Subaru's that take front end damage are usually much harder to repair as the engine is so close to the front bumper. Even a somewhat minor accident can break the timing belt mechanism and do in the engine.

If you want an Outback, I suggest a 2001 model. The 2000-2004 Legacy/Outback models have the more reliable Phase 2 EJ25 SOHC engine, which doesn't have nearly the same frequency of head gasket problems as the Phase 1 EJ25 DOHC. The only frequent head gasket problem on the Phase 2 EJ25's is an external head gasket leak on the lower driver's side of the engine. The external coolant leak only occurs on very cold days, and only a small amount of coolant is lost, and once the engine is warm the leak seals itself. Subaru is aware of this problem and has replaced head gaskets with this problem even after warranty expiration in some cases. Total head gasket failures like those on the Phase 1 EJ25 DOHC are very rare in comparison on the phase 2 (they still happen on occasion though). The Phase 2 EJ25 SOHC engine (2000+ Legacy/Outback) produces about the same power and torque as the older Phase 1 EJ25 DOHC engine, but this power is produced a lot lower in the rev range, and makes the engine a lot more usable. The Phase 2 also gets a bit better mileage (nothing to write home about though). The 2000 Outback suffers from severe front brake rotor warping. The 2000 has the same brakes as the 1999 model, but weighs a lot more. In 2001 Subaru corrected this problem by increasing the front brake rotor diameter by an inch to accomodate the heavier weight and reduce the rotor warping problem. 2001+ models also add a few features: outside temp gauge, dual trip odometer, seatback nets, rear intermittant wiper, LATCH child seat tie downs (we had this earlier in Canada, not sure why US was a year behind), and the rear viscous limited slip differential is standard on all Outbacks (was part of the Winter package and standard on Limited models in 2000). From 2000 onward, all Legacy's and Outback's use the same Phase 2 EJ25 SOHC engine and transmissions, with the exception of the Outback H6 with its six cylinder engine and variable torque distribution (VTD) transmission. The 2003/4 Legacy GT model is available with a VTD transmission with Sportshift function (manually shiftable). From 2000 onward all Outbacks get the viscous coupled limited slip rear differential which is also standard on the 2000+ Legacy GT models. Prior to the 2000 MY the LSD was not available, aside from a few 91-94 Turbo Legacy's. The 95-99 Legacy (Brighton, L and 95 LS/LSi) models had the somewhat underpowered but very reliable EJ22 engine. Try to get a 1999 model with the Phase 2 EJ22 engine which has more HP (142 hp vs 137) and more torque (149 lb ft vs 140). The Phase 2 EJ22 also produces its peak torque at 3600 RPM instead of the Phase 1's 5,600, which make it a far more usable engine. Avoid 4EAT automatics prior to the 99 model year (or is it 98?). In 99 (or 98?) Subaru introduced a new 4EAT case design which does not suffer from the torque bind problem in such high frequency. The pre-98 transmissions had a metal part moving against the aluminum transmission case, which would eventually wear and develop a pressure leak (and torque bind). In 98 Subaru added a hardened steel sleeve to prevent this wear to the aluminum transmisison case and in most cases this will prevent torque bind (it will at least reduce the cost of fixing torque bind). Basically if the transmission has a spin off transmission oil filter near the front drive shaft on the driver's side, it is the new transmission and this is the good one. The old 4EAT's aren't that unreliable though, just keep $800 aside to fix the torque bind problem that will almost always occur between 70-120K miles. The 5MT's are not smooth and the clutch sucks, but this is true of most Subaru's. If you can shift properly and get used to the long throws of the gears and clutch and tolerate some clutch judder, the 5MT is pretty much bulletproof. I quite like my 5MT, but when I drive my relatives' BMW's and Acura's I really realize that the Subaru 5MT transmission is not all that great. So my recommendations are: Get a wagon, unless you absolutely want a sedan. The wagon is more versatile and is easier to resell. Don't get any Subaru with the old Phase 1 EJ25 SOHC engine (1996-1999 Legacy LS/LSi/GT and Outback had this engine). The 1995-99 Legacy L and Brighton had the far more reliable EJ22 engine, and the 99 Legacy L and Brighton had the more powerful Phase II EJ22 engine. Don't get any Subaru with the early 4EAT transmission. (1989-1997?). Look for the spin off oil filter on the driver's side of the transmission, this is the redesigned and more reliable 4EAT (should be on 1998+ models). Get the 2001 Outback, and avoid the 1995-2000 models. The 2001 does not have the brake problem of the 2000 model, and has some important features standard such as the limited slip differntial. Get the 1999 Legacy L wagon, in particular the special anniversery edition which included more standard equipment (alloy wheels, sunroof, height adjustable seat). Note the other replies regarding the timing belts, head gaskets, water pumps, etc, these replies are correct. Regular and proper maintainance of Subaru's is very critical, and any seller should produce the service receipts to prove that they have done the required work. For more info on new and old Subaru's go to: http://www.cars101.com/

The left and right headlights are on two isolated circuits, even the switch on the turn signal stock has two contacts, one for each headlight. This level of duplication is required on all passenger cars by DOT regulation. So a common cause is very unlikely. I reviewed the wiring diagram and there is nothing in common that I can see that would prevent both low beams from working. Check the low beams filimant for contiuity (check resistance) or just change them both. Did you use high wattage bulbs and fry the wires? A mere 10-15 watts over the standard 55/60 or 55/65 will fry Subaru wires, the wires are very weak. Since the relays click, there is continuity from the interior switch to the relay, which is really good because a problem in the wiring here would be very difficult and expensive to correct. Check the wiring harness at the bulb for voltage, if none the wires between the headlight and relay are damaged or you need new relays because the contacts inside of them are not working (possibly burnt). It is very common for one bulb to fail and the second one to fail shortly after, which is why you are supposed to replace bulbs in pairs, including replacing the good one.

My IAC died in a similar manner. When the AC cuts in, the ECU opens the IAC to increase idle RPM's by 150-200 rpm or so. The IAC malfunctions and closes, stalling the engine, and sometimes it will start to work again just before the engine dies, and the idle speed starts jumping erratically. IAC failures are a common item on 89-94 Legacy's. I removed my IAC and cleaned it with brake cleaner, and had no further problems with it. You might try the same. Mark its installation position, remove the two screws and electrical harness. Clean the top, the valve and the intake where the valve sits. The IAC uses an electro magnet to open and close the valve by rotating it, or at least it did on my 93 Legacy wgn 5MT. 4EAT's have a few different components, but I don't think the IAC is one of them. A/C compressors rarely seize, unless there is physical damage to the clutch assembly or the pressure swith is stuck in a closed state. The pressure switch is designed to protect the compressor and is supposed to open if refridgerent pressure is too low and not allow the compressor to run. Sometimes the pressure switch gets stuck in either an open or closed state. If you A/C does work (cold air) and doesn't make a horrendous sound your A/C compressor is fine. Check for cold air, and note if the A/C compressor cycle times increase at a high fan speed as compared to a low one. As more air moves through the evaporator, the compressor should cycle more often to maintain its cold temperature. You can eliminate the A/C compressor as a cause easily by disconnecting the clutch wire on the top of the compressor. The ECU will still try to raise the idle RPM but the A/C compressor will not engage. If you still have idle/running problems, it is not the A/C compressors fault..... If the problem is solved, then maybe the compressor is seized (but the pressure switch should have prevented this). You can leave the clutch wire off until you get the A/C serviced to prevent stalling.

6.5 inch front and rear. Don't bother upgrading the rear speakers, since they fire upwards and do not contain a large and sealed airspace for the speaker anyways. On my 93 Legacy wgn I used Boston Pro 6.5's in front and an old set of Pioneer 6.5"s that were just slightly better than the stock Clarions. I ran the rear speakers at lower gain, and set my amps high pass at 120 hz. If I tried to run them loud and with more bass, the would rattle and there would be very poor cone control because the mounting area was not sealed properly. For the front speakers, do not mount component tweeters more than a few inches away from the component woofer and do not mount it higher than knee level or so. Mount them low and aim them at the dome light. Why: If you separate the component woofer and component tweeter by more than a few inches you will create two very distinct sound sources, which does not sound good (it confuses the ears/brain). Since no one is sitting in absolute middle point between the tweeters, the tweeter that is closest will always seem louder, and having the tweeters mounted high only makes this situation worse. Also since there is always one tweeter closer, the sound waves from it will reach the driver/passenger first, causing the sound imaging to shift left or right. This is called "time alignment" and is a difficult problem to solve without advanced digital signal processors, and even these can only correct the "time alignment" for a single driver/passenger. By mounting the tweeter low on the door (or better yet the kick panel), the relative distance between the left and right tweeter is much closer to being equal for driver/passenger than if it was mounted higher up. You may note that many component speaker crossovers have two connections for the tweeter, typically 0db and -6db. The -6db setting is typically used when the tweeter is installed too high and is way too loud. Pro speakers don't have this..... because they are mounted for optimum imaging. So why do manufacturers place the tweeters up high? Its just eye candy, like putting a bigger wing on a WRX to make if go faster..... Subaru's sail mounted tweeters are tuned down about 5 db or so, and even far more than that on the fantastic McInstosh sound system. Check out some audiophile cars and you will note without exception that the tweeters are mounted low on the door, or preferably in custom built kick panels. There are two classes of car audio people though, Sound Pressure Level (SPL) guys who like to go deaf, and Sound Quality (SQ) guys who like actual music as opposed to bass tests. SQ guys would never consider high mounting tweeters as it is impossible to correct the balance and time aligment problems doing so creates.

The death of the Baja will come shortly, there is no redesign of the Baja for 2005. Subaru is dropping an existing turbo setup into the Baja to get them off the lots..... I have a hunch that the B11S will go into production in low quantities (maybe 5,000) and sell for more than $50K. It would be Subaru's "Acura NSX" and be used for marketting to draw attention to Subaru's other fine products. The SVX was supposed to do this, but it did not. The SVX is now a "cult car" and is probably more popular now than when it was in production. The SVX was too outrageous for Subaru in 1992, but now with the WRX STi, the B11S will not be out of place. The market for luxury sport coupes is rather limited, but the luxury sport sedan market is still hot and should be for some time. Subaru will fill the luxury sport sedan market with the forthcoming Legacy STi priced in the $32-40K range. With Infinity's forthcoming all wheel drive G35 coming, it will be very interesting to see where the Legacy STi fits in...

I just thought of something. Are you sure that you are using the correct temperature plugs?? If you use a plug that is too cold it will foul in the manner you mentioned, and usually all plugs will foul in a similar manner and rate (which a misfire may not do). If you use a plug that is too hot, it will disintegrate. Hotter plugs expose more of the electrode core so it will heat up more and clean itself off. A cooler plug will have a longer ceramic core to cover more of the electrode which will keep the electrode cool. If your plugs are one temperature range too low, it may be the cause of the problem, I looked through the Japanese NGK and Bosch sites using Altavista's Babelfish Japanese to English translation to see if I could find the temperature rating and gap, but I had no luck. The original manual will quote the exact NGK part number required....... Too bad you don't have the manual. But I would also investigate the sensors I mention in the previous reply. Some information on turbo Volvo spark plug problems According the above link, standed platinum plugs are not used on turbo Volvo's, perhaps the Sube has a similar problem......

I think 0.8 mm is the correct gap, or it is close enough. The PCV valve is on the left side (looking from the front) of the intake manifold (above the #3 cylinder if it is in the same location of other Subaru's. A hose of about 3/4 inch diameter comes from it and leads to the crankcase on the left side (from the front) near the flywheel. I don't see the PCV valve causing this, usually they fail and you have no crankcase venting causing very quick oil breakdown. Occasionally the PCV valve will allow engine oil into the intake manifold which is not good. The PCV valve is designed to prevent the crankcase system from flowing air in the wrong direction when the pressure on the manifold side of the throttle body is higher than the pressure on the air intake side (in your case, the intercooler side). The PCV valve costs about $5 and should be replaced every 50,000 km or so (96,000 on 2000+ Subaru's). I would reset the ECU (disconnect negative battery cable for 15+ minutes). The ECU will relearn its sensors (oxygen, TPS, knock, MAF, etc) and may detect something that is wrong. Since you don't have an oil consumption problem you have an air/fuel mixture problem or an ignition problem. I seem to recall that the TT Legacy's had a fuel rail problem that caused low fuel pressure at cylinder 3 or 4 causing lean burn and failure of the cylinder, but that is not your problem.... I would see if the ECU detects misfire with clean plugs. If it does you have a bad coilpack and/or plug wires. Sensors that are involved in setting the air/fuel mixture are: oxygen sensors (1 on your car?, 2 on some newer Subaru's) MAF sensor engine temperature sensor throttle position sensor If more than 50,000 km on them the oxygen sensor(s) are probably not at 100% capability. It might be worth a replacement. I would inspect the MAF and clean it carefully if required, it may require replacement. Engine temperature sensors are a known weak point on Subaru's, it feeds information to the ECU only and not the temperature gauge. It is possible that the ECU beleives the engine is running cold because of a misbehaving temperature sensor and sets the a/f ratio too rich. Throttle position sensors do fail, but this is rare and usually results in a very strange throttle response (jumps and blips in power output). You might need to find a good Subaru mechanic with the tool to plug into the ECU to diagnose the sensors, your car predates the ODB II diagnostic plug requirements.

The orange peel paint is not a Subaru issue, it is an enviromental one. 8-10 years ago car makers switched to more enviromentally friendly paints. There are massive class action lawsuits from DOW and PPG workers who have alarming levels of cancer from the chemicals used to make paints until about 10 years ago. Today's paints are softer and require a thicker coat of it, hence the slightly bumpy appearance of it. Also the newer paints don't work on plastics like the old stuff, so a different type of paint is used so forget about color matching plastic to metal, not even BMW can do it..... I am a little concerned about accidental air bag deployment. Hit a ditch or drop in the road and if the lower side of the bumper hits, the air bags go off. I have seen this happen many times, Subaru recalled a bunch of vehicles that had low tow hooks that were hitting speed bumps causing airbags to go off, but it still occurs. With the new dual stage airbags, anything over a 8 MPH collision will deploy the bags in low power inflation mode. The new dash may add over $1000 to accident repair claims.

Thats a good trick for the rear window! Professionals have access to the larger window film that I have not seen at autoparts / Wal-Mart / Canadian Tire stores. Most of the dealer applied tint jobs that I have seen use two peices on the rear window and the seam is hidden along a defroster line, but perhaps they don't know about the larger tint rolls (hard to beleive...).

I assume that you are gapping the plugs properly, sometimes improper gap can cause problems. Black plugs = oil in cylinder or problem with air/fuel mixture. I would take your used plugs to an expert mechanic and have him confirm whether it is carbon build up or oil build up. Carbon build up = air/fuel mixture problem or misfire from bad coilpack. Oil buildup = oil getting into the intake or bad rings. Are you having to top up the oil from time to time (with no external oil leaks)? Is the throttle body clean or is it coated with oil? If so, perhaps oil is leaking from the turbo and into the intake (and then cylinders). PCV valve? could be bad, change it.... I would scrap the pod air filter, as they tend to confuse or damage the air metering system. If your car has the hot wire mass air flow (MAF) sensor, these types of filters are notorious for contaminating them and making the engine beleive more air is going in than actually is causing an overly rich air/fuel mixture (and carbon buildup). Generally not a problem with the newer Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor system that Subaru now uses. I am fairly certain that your car uses MAF, and you can confirm this if there is a wiring harness connected to the intake immediately after the air filter. Sometimes the MAF sensor becomes coated in the air filter oil, in these cases it is sometimes possible to clean the sensor "hot wires" with brake cleaner (use at low pressure and with a Q-tip). An air/fuel mixture problem should be detected by the oxygen sensor and compensated for and often the "Check engine" light will indicate a problem. Pehaps your oxygen sensors are not functioning correctly. Your coilpack could be gone, they often don't last 10 years, but change it only after you have ruled out the above.

Even a small leak such as this will show on the hydrocarbon test. The hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel and exhaust) will stay in the coolant until the coolant system is flushed. The hydrocarbon test is often able to detect leaks that occured quite some time ago. It is the ideal test to locate small intermittant leaks.