NuclearBacon

MAN!!! it was awesome!!!! im getting my camera back from my girlfriend, i should have some videos and pics, did anyone else go???? if so, which stages did you make it to? my boy Matt Iorio was out there sportin his paladin rally 96 sti ROCKIN!!! what do you have?!?

HELLO TO EVERYONE!!! (if someone sees this that can move it to a post where more people will see it, that would be great) Up in the Chico / Redding / Paradise area, we have thunderhill park, a raceway that has given us RallyX for a few years off and on. To anyone who has run at thunderhill, you know how much fun this is!!! AND! we have the opportunity to possibly expand into the motocross track (which will be levelled and made into a RallyX course, with the right equipment) ....which brings me to why i'm posting! There are NO SCHEDULED EVENTS FOR 2007. yeah it made my heart sink as well. I quickly wrote the CEO an email saying i'd like to help get it BACK on the calender, and i recieved a call this evening giving me the opportunity to make it happen. .....and i need help!!!! I know theres a few of you who come up to thunderhill to race. PLEASE contact me and let me know if you'd be willing to lend a hand and get RallyX BACK ON THE CALENDER!!!!!! Stay posted, and i'll keep everyone up to date! feel free to contact me!!!! Thanks!!! Luigi Oppido nuclearbacon@hotmail.com (please put THUNDERHILL in the subject line, thanks!!!!)

i managed to find a set of Left-handed drill bits... for those of you (like me) who have never heard of these, the idea is to run your drill in reverse. these bits have a reverse helix and while you drill INTO the broken screw, it should bite into it and reverse the broken part out. No idea if this will work, or if i should drive it a mile away and see if someone at a machine shop can do something for me. any suggestions or opinions??? i have the day off tomorrow (tuesday), gimmie some direction!!! oh MIGHTY MINDS OF THE USMB!!!!!

what about some way to weld the end of a rod onto the broken part, then using a wrench, backing out the left over. could... that work?

i own a book called "Rally Navigation" by martin holmes. Its an awesome book interviewing all sorts of people, from the 80's and 70's. its not a lot of driving technique, such as understanding your co-driver. great pictures, and a great read

...brilliant. That made my weekend. THANKS!!!!

hahahaha thats awesome... .......how bout in a Datsun 280Z !!!! ...................oh wait. Datsun DID rally the 280z..... crazy

Thanks WAWalker for your input! great information! i completly agree on the amount of work... but my father had an idea of getting a reverse drill bit. the bolt was just recently out. i thought if i were to get the reverse drill bit, and bite down on the part of the bolt still in there, i might be able to back it out..... eventually, this engine will be pulled and COMPLETLY overhauled, this engine is now mine til death , so im not too worried about it. i took some pics of the front of the crank, and it looks hardly marred at all... if any. this pics i have are super high res, so i'll get them on here asap. ..... im less worried then i was though. i have options, and the red wagon will live again!!!!!!!!

So... do you have a machine shop that you made those studs in? thats pretty cool, but man, if thers another problem, that woodruff key wont do its job, and EVERYTHING will be torn up.... if i had an EJ22, i wouldnt be stressing so much, but, there arent too many EJ22T's out in the junkyard if you catch my drift..... ..........about to head outside and see what ive got...

the pulley wobbled because the woodruff key ate a groove into the pulley and there was no more keyway in the pulley. the bolt was all the way in.... and you're right what have i to lose

www.wrc.com go to rally radio and listen to the beginning of the 2007 WRC season!!!!!!!!!!! ALL THIS WEEKEND!!!!! SWEEEET! Luigi ah hell, just click below, it'll open in windows media player, and just listen listen listen and dream http://mfile.akamai.com/13590/live/reflector:39499.asx?bkup=39500 GO SWRT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So i was having problems with a wobbling crank pulley on my EJ22T..... the bolt was literally finger loose. Shrugging, I tightened the bolt....to 90 Ftlbs ..... ..........it worked for a day.... ....then it wobbled again......... wth the bolt tight... when i went to remove the bolt again... the bolt sheered inside the crank leaving me 6 threads out of 12 on the bolt i removed... ...thats when i threw up a little. so .....let me tell you my plan. i have the bolt that sheered... im going to grind it down, make it pretty.... then put my new woodruff key in, with a new/used crank pully i got from the junkyard off of a 90 Legacy EJ22..... put everything together, and screw the bolt in with a bit of loctite on it (not the top strength stuff, but the next level down stuff) ...i mean, im a student.... this is my daily driver, besides my GL-10 (which needs new front wheel bearings me thinks) and i dont want to replace the crank. jesus what a nightmare that would be...... i mean, if i werent a student and had a nice shop.... oh! and another vehicle, and this one was my fun project... So. Opinions. Please. i figure the bolt will not touch the piece thats still in the crank, i'll be able to tighten it down, and although i dont have the extra threads in the crank, the loctite should take care of the hold. grrrrrr

I LOVE RALLYCROSS. it is awesome. its ...AWESOME!! and as close as i can get to rally...for now.... AND!!! my stock GL-10 (with a 274,000 tired turbo engine) beat 3 STi's and one WRX... well check it out for yourself!! with some pics! (this was 10-21-06)

The wagon has about 2000 miles on it now... and it ROCKS MY SOCKS! just thought i'd give an update mmmmm 5MT

i have registered

i have NOT checked fuses, my reverse lights work. i'll be checking the fuses tonight.

SO! The swap is done, and i swapped out the Cruise Computer (92 AT computer ---> 90 MT computer) and swapped the Relay and wired in the change to the plug: AT-------MT 1 ------> 2 2 ------> - 3 ------> 3 4 ------> 4 --------- 1 -----> Switch on Clutch pedal -------> Ground I DON'T know if the MT donor had working cruise control. I DON'T know if the AT wagon had working cruise control. I am not getting any light on my cruise switch. Thought it might be the bulb in the switch, went for a ride, engaged it, set the cruise (above 45 mph).... nothing. I thought of a couple of things that might be the problem.... I need to check for continuity on both the clutch and brake pedal switches. I need to know HOW to test the neutral switch in the manual transmission. Is there continuity in neutral or continuity in gear? I didn't get continuity in either position leading me to guess the neutral switch in the transmission is bad. If that neutral switch is bad AND we are getting an "open" signal from the transmission, will that open signal deactivate the cruise control? Where is the neutral switch? How do you change it out? How do you test it? I also thought of the relay being bad. Is there a way we can test that relay? How about that momentary switch on the dash board. How is that tested? I know the cruise control problem is minor, just need a few nudges in the right direction. Thanks!

So i figured a lot out today just reading, and since no one really had any answers to this stuff, and josh (Legacy777) is taking a break i'll field my own questions... and hopefully help someone out. As far as i can tell, and what i read .... yes, i'll be cool. Clutch B needs to be wired into the Cruise control if i want cruise control to work properly. properly = like the factory sent it out on MT cars. I'll be doing that tomorrow and let you know how it goes... YES it needs to be used with this wiring scheme to allow the starter to be removed from the system when the clutch is NOT depressed. Not sure, but it has to be some type of main power going to the starter from the ignition... and its wired to allow electricity to flow through when the relay is used..... its 14 gauge wire, so its something...important. There we go! tomorrow i should be turning the key! Hope this helps someone out, and soon, I TOO will be a swap master! Luigi

if this was not solved its a SUPER easy fix.... i just took the shift lock mechinism apart and saw how it works, and this was never fully explained... The soloniod that moves the lever back and forth to actually lock the key in the ignition, LOCKS into the open position AS WELL AS locks in the closed position. if your key is stuck, simply remove the screws from the bottom of the plastic shroud around the column, then you'll see a white box on the front of the ignition. This is the solonoid. there are two access holes (square shaped) to see inside the white box, located perpandicular to each other. One has a small metal tab barely sticking out of it, and the other doesnt. it has a circular lock washer thingie in there you can see. if you put a screwdriver and PUSH against the metal circular washer thing, it should make a slight click and move about 1/32 of an inch. that will lock the shift lock solonoid in the open position and basically keep it there forever, until the shift lock system tells it to lock again. you can either unplug this solonoid, or you can remove the shift lock controller (if you still have your auto, keep the controller in place, but unplug the solonoid from the bottom... its a two wire FLAT FLAT FLAT plug. hope that helps someone out, cuz that thing is STUPID.

Hello to all !!!! Help me out!!! this is an email to josh, and i wanted other opinions as well... let me know what you think!!! ok so looking back through the wiring and such.... i found the plug you used thats BLUE on the custom harness you made (bottom right of your pigtails picture)... it had a YELLOW Relay plugged into it right? as far as i can tell, and from reading the electrical schmatic, the way you have it wired leaves the coil in the relay hotwired/bypassed, (two blues taped together coming from the blue plug) ... so is the relay left out (in the wiring), but still physically plugged in???? and if so what does that accomplish??? heres the pedal box as i've labeled.... The brake plug is still in the touring wagon and is IDENTICAL to the manual donar plug... Question 1) Can I just plug the auto's dangling brake plug into the MT pedal box BRAKE recieving end and be cool? Question 2) Is Clutch B not used at all?? if so where does it go? because on the plugs from the donar car, it's connected to the brake plug (i assume it's this way for the cruise control, incase you hit the clutch pedal it would kill the cruise, as well as hitting the brake pedal) Question 3) YELLOW RELAY. Plug it in?? Don't plug it in???? Question 4) What is the 4th wire that is cut to make the relay inline with it? what is that 4th plug? is it switched power for the starter? heres your wiring harness with my labels. Thanks for your help!!!! Luigi

totally dude, i didnt mean to disrespect

.....if you can find one.... .........for under 1200 bucks

A WORD OF CAUTION!!!! i dont know how much you've read on 4EAT's but..... ....................To put it...gently.... ....THEY SUCK! Chances are if that car is in the junkyard, (and it hasnt been hit or something), its there because the TRANSMISSION WENT OUT!!! BE WARNED!!!!!!!! other then that HAPPY JUYARDING! (junkyarding but cooler, trying to set a trend)

so um... just to let everyone know... hehehe... my touring wagon is in a MILLION pieces .... waiting for its... - Exedy Lightweight Flywheel - Exedy Stage 1 Clutch - STi JDM Spec Short Throw Shift Kit - STi JDM Carbon Fiber Strut Tower Brace - STi MT Pedals - NEX Lowering Coilovers - Greddy Catback Exhaust all sitting in the garage... with the 4EAT sitting in the cargo compartment of the donar 91 legacy i have. everything is out... .....now everything must go in . *gasp!* *crosses fingers* Josh if you're reading this.... you havent escaped my questions yet!!!!! and for anyone who doesnt know who josh is (Legacy777) ... I owe him MANY beers and yes, i'll be at WCSS

hahahha.. thought that was funny i chuckled outloud.. thought i would share