bgd73

I guess I am in the wrong club. I will inform anyone I know about it as well. To complain again will be half a dozen times. A moderator informed me to be misleading as well, on unique repairs I have to do- I am not leading anybody. I am seriously contemplating the legalities of some of the things said to me here. I regret being a part of it. Fuel pumps kick on and off regardless of subaru. The carb is unique electrically as there is nothing obvious to say it has reached 3.3 lbs and float bowl full <- this is the last time I explain myself for the simpletons dishing out thier prejudice as some knowledgable helper. It would be a great pleasure if "McBrat" banned me and my username... Show off his usmb authority. I never got so much childish crap from people my own age ever (mcBrat: you left me as dumbfounded as some of the kid mentality remarks I have received. Thanks.). My communication skills and truth I have with Subarus are going elsewhere. I never have had a question answered BTW.. Look through 1200 posts and all the questions I have asked. Not one straight answer. I donated my part for free, and have no regrets, it was part of my hobby coming here. For those I have helped, great. Long live the old soobs. I sincerely would like to be banned now. Something is Incredibly lacking here, everything I have written proves it isn't me. Could a moderator please erase my nick, and keep it banned... I'm outta here. The saddest part of my nearly everyday visits for over a year and a half: not one friend. Nobody in my locale is equally surprising. I have an open mind to be anywhere anytime to talk to anybody. This place as a majority does not. Had fun most of the time. Thanks for the help and chats I did get as mature adults would.

I had dash apart, no ecu. The chiltons I have, only opened twice in pursuit of details mentions nothing, (same result when trying to decipher heaterbox). I have several fuel pumps, but realized my problem is the pump. It hardly runs at all ever, creating a problem where the 3.3 psi is utilized to atomize fuel/air. It is currently a slob with low/no pressure. I am aware of the simple fix of another fuel pump and regulator, but this question has my curiosity. With 3 subaru books and entire sections missing, I was hoping for some free advice. edit: The setup I have to fix is simply a jdm regulator with guage from ebay (does anyone know if this is a bargain) and a subaru spfi pump with its mounting plate, to plug in and bolt up easily.

Timing marks are great for that TDC stuff..you can even see the piston to aid in this. if it weren't for lead in the pencil, running it would be an interesting quick resolve. those 3 prong tools flexible seem to be a great idea as posted. or the car upside down, that is a great idea.. maybe water filling the cyl and get it to float to the top.

I like your point of view! The original hitachi is a favorite for matching an engine (ea series). Problems are just that simple and do not require this matching game that never seems to be correct from other crabs. Below zero F in temps always reveal the most minute errors, the oem carbs seem to have none. Other than OEM emissions, they even open up quite well for heavier throttling. A higher pressure fuel pump and a regulator with guage does amazing things for oem.... For these bigger 280cfm swaps,It is safe to assume it is for WOT and more cfm? Never worth it to me.. Heck my favorite carb on a 350 cubiuc inch is a "small" 600 cfm (smaller than oem). Warm weather places get away with alot, bad carbs and too much cfm is one of them.

This thread is frustrating. I have yet to see any good EJ's at all... There was a 2 liter that became popular here , and of course disappeared forever. Am I the only one? I have dug and dug some more at info, on newer EJ stuff,and my locale doesn't allow them to last or even get the performance I have seen on the web. I am assuming if there is even a remote chance of arctic blasts, there are too many dainty parts to hinder good opinions.Personally a -25F cold start and a crankshaft skinnier than a piece of luan is a Disturbing thought to say the least. The very generation legacy spoken of as a favorite in this thread,was the first junked soobs I found, to learn the 2.2L engine was annhilated.The car sadly looked abandoned BTW, sinkin in the dirt lookin purty. This is not my pessimistic opinion mind you, I Really wanted an ej engine soob.... Back to the oldest for me...never going to happen. A v8 touching off 20mpg will replace my desire for the bigger boxer that keeps failing anyway. My Line Is Drawn. Cheap enough would be realistic enough, I am glad to find info here on what a good EJ was.. someplace else of course. But hey, good info nonetheless.

When I saw the photos of the wrx rear being nearly identical to the ea82... and then thoughts of 20 years of hopelessly "LSD" mode on 2 of my ea82s until the unibody had problems because of it.... The EJ swaps surviving it, and wrx sti's breaking trannies before the rear never let go. How much torque could it take? There's even lift kits straining axles with large mudders vibrating away at it ,there are many endpoints smashing into the rear diff. Is it safe to call it a very strong part? Of course there are rears that break, as with any car there is a majority mainstream "normal" and the ea82's breaking aren't a clear majority. It is normal to last a very long time, even neglecting fluid. I did have one that got hot, due to a bent body I welded, bent forever (yes it was a stupid thing to do by eyeball) - yet it still survived, even the highway.until the belly of the body broke its own integrity. Anyway... Does anyone think it could sustain a 200hp/torque v8?

That sound puts a smile on my face

thats in great shape, looks nice. the reward : priceless! I fix my own too, even after previous owners call them junk. Alot of patience into things taken for granted. Looks great! like the red.

A thought after seeing a video of an oem motorcycle claiming 125mph in an 1/8th mile (is that not like 4 seconds or less?) Are there any tricks to speed that ability to advance like I have seen on motorcycles with a chip mod. I do have an spfi ecu etc, way too proprietary to tinker with. My first carb soob was a lunatic and all I did was clean the distributor to note the various parts inside. it is a basic function, but what stops it from really advancing an engine fast like? power, gears, intake, valves, fuel, exhaust and the advancing mechanisms to make it happen.. Anything to do for a carb distributor to ensure fastest action?

The toughest for me would be its action in an ice storm or other terrain deemed impossible. Such as that vid of portland with cars sliding involunatarily in slow motion..into a pile up.I would drive my old soob through that scenario anyday, I do here locally all the time. Times when the roads are to myself, I know it is bad out- the car doesn't. That vid was posted here at usmb, I do not know how to search for it.. Anyway, that is about as tough as it gets. Extreme offroad needs just that. Extreme on-road needs low, lean, symmetrical not only in build but torque dispersal. The old soobs have it better than any of them....The 5 mains have something crazy, as was proven here by a friend- it was like the engine had wheels, and it veered right while going straight the ore power added. Add a leaning road and its all over (exactly that cars demise- he refuses to get another new soob becuase of it..) 3 main soobs really do self cancel. Coersion to do a donut on slippery terrain is more than lack of power, that little buggy wants straight ahead and gentle turns. Couldn't ask for more! The number one reason for liking them for me.No toy about it when push comes to shove in everyday driving. Not yet anyway... There are many days that prove to me how tough a soob is.Intelligence in action is the toughest thing any car can do, the old soobs are one of them.

Doubtful about carlisle.. would love the ride, may be possible. I have a rather large list of chores accruing due to 20 years on the old wagon. Would make it no doubt, but I don't need an unexpected adventure.105k is still ready to go around the world... but it isn't the same as when they were younger to just drive it until catastrophe, it seems they are gaining my personal value a bit more lately.preventive maintenance and best repair routes possible will no doubt hinder my 87's travels. I didn't spot rockers at millsupply for the xt6, they may be there.. I did find other places with them. Another good point is that there is always something left from original, so it is doubling integrity in may places where they failed the first time. "Breaks once, it will do it again." Different approach non-oem is always welcome.Except for materials. If I am not mistaken, the rocker has been the only metal I must have the original type steel...Given the years it took to do what it did, it is by no means frustrating or depressing, doubling it up sounds better than ever. next month seems to be my schedule to get it done with a full day available.

There are 6 lug conversions that would pass american dot inspections flawlessly...(street legal in other words) I found an 89 GMC 3/4 ton 6 lug with a redrillable bolt pattern by oem build, correct center hole and an offset perfect. 16x6.5 there are many others, that is only one example. I must have correct centers or I can't use them, which rules out much more than not to hack for a soob. The gm pickup wheels was a nice surprise to find the center within 1mm. I did spot a sedan with them, simply looked like bigger wheels fitting in the wells like oem. I wondered why they weren't an option by factory from the beginning. 13's on most of the ea soobs are even funny looking, for they are that small. spare wheels are just that- unless you are all offroad where it doesn't matter anyway.

I was fabricating at first on my other 87. Great luck with 1/8th inch box beam trailer steel, very springy, didn't dominate by killing signals and proved itself through 30 below when you can find a firewall popped away from the front end or even a broken frame....but that doesn't go well with long rockers. From experience, it needs super fast signal, capable of a ton, and one piece. Fabricating low torque old hatchbacks would be fun, but the wagons and xt6 are a different story, be it the body and/or strong driveline, or both. LSD rears is a metal killing monster on a unibody as well. It truly needs a high grade fast spring type steel.The only way I can tell beyond getting bs'd by sales is seeing the metal up close., and I bang on it for hopefully a bell sound more than "tinny".My backyard skills is another reason to get one premade, I got bs'd by a local sheet metal expert .. not once but twice.One soob dead because of it. I put a whole lot of effort into a bending soob, about a 10 hour day, surprised to see dusk when I was done, to only learn it was the WRONG metal after its fiorst winter and it bent to no return.. I really have nothing to feel better about, I bought this wagon knowing what it needs- spotting the rockers at millsupply beforehand was a big help.I even saved a smashed fender to bang up into strange curves for the little things needing repair. Not much to go now.. it is better than oem already even with an open rocker. Lift kits and EJ engines aren't even ruled out. The xt6 is even more special to have a rocker premade, with the absolute "must have" correct metal....quite a sideways torquer ya know what I mean?

update: got the rocker today from millsupply in a 7 foot tall box well wrapped. Snipped at it to verify guage, very tough to cut with 20 guage snips, fine grain. Very worth it. total cost was close to 50 bucks. It also gives a chance to wrap the front and do something custom in the middle (my last 87 went to junk because of the middle).and its got angles all in one piece that are very difficult to do .. I have tried and failed. This replacement was well worth the one piece fit. Will be installing as soon as the garage I use is open.

Glad it is back together. Your motivation is great. In fact I haven't encountered another who didn't junk the car when wheel well work was needed.I fixed mine contently, the repairs are so common here it is not exactly a trauma to attack and conquer if to find bad rust spots. Any repairs at all to normal rust spots last a long long time beyond oem more times than not. My first repair went unpainted for several years - I bet it is still sitting there, tall strong and ready for 100k more in the pile it ended up in- at 20 years old. I won't doubt rust repairs again after putting a screwdriver through an oem wheel well proving how dainty they really are- in young perfect condition by subarus build. Any decent repair is stronger than oem.I of course asked myself "why" they are that dainty, but after seeing another compact car in a crash test from japan with an engine in the same liter range... they have thier own standards, not quite thinking about how bad roads, time and weather can be.This particular car got a very bad rating where all soobs rust.. and the soob is holding a rear end. How did the old soobies do in side hits etc? I bet a repaired one that revealed its weakness, as they are all individual, does better than an original. I hope you get it to go to 500k+ miles I am tending to babble, as I believe some of my rust work was doubted without facts in similar areas. I luckily have a regular place to go to for inspections. Reality and a mechanic is a great combo... Does your area give any doubts about some of the rust repair?