
bgd73
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Everything posted by bgd73
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Would love to know exactly what is going to be there.. It did occur to me a simple plane jane carbed 87GL with d/r all oem may becoming interesting, but I was thinking rare old soobs, extreme custom work etc. Last year I drove withing 30+/- miles of that place in a 2wd loyale just for something to do.Had no idea the show existed. would love to have a destination on my "spring fever" trips, this may be a possibility. is the post here the only attempt at gathering old subarus? or is there ,say, an offroad group etc? I don't know of anyone here that actually keeps soobs good, usmb is as close as I have found to enthusiasm.. no one to mention it to., even though I have spotted some unique local... an ea81 gen hatch went buzzing by just last night- it is very rare to me, went by on the pretreated salt road and light snow, and being a small world, I saw the car parked and it was in mint/very good condition with a very unique sounding exhaust (that would be a good one for show?). Also a lifted sedan around here- local soob world is all too quiet.I could easily assume some don't know what they got.
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That is a good swap, nothing should be changing. there is a second thought about what subaru freakishly (I have said it yet again about the ea82 and thier differences) did to 2wd and 4wd, spfi and carb. The spfi even though higher compression has delayed cams on the intake side and open sooner on the exhaust (they really attempted to kill the benefit of 9.5:1) for the very outdated slow ecu for it- faster ecu can have nice tight cams for a full stroke like the old carbs have. The carb is actually the winner in the hp/torque department.. in fact after 8 years and on my 9th with a carb ea82, it may very well be underrated. You had a good question, alot of folks don't pay attention to a half tooth timing off by oem, or the fact that cams change throughout some models. there is an informative thread here about that someplace...What you have in mind should be exact swaps, again except for the second thoughts I have about 2wd and 4wd carb differences ,I haven't found anything written, maybe an old soob pro mechanic can answer that question with the thorough fsm. I bet you can do it for under $500!
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There is something very familiar about that soob.. even the color. To think of the first soob I ever saw, that is very close. The popularity was much more with the ea81 and newer, but no doubt a collectible.. I hope someone grabs it. Given the area its in, it would seem somebody would want it- here that would have been crushed, nostalgia and collecting history isn't much of a hobby.Save the old buggy!
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find a 1781 cc with the paranoia put into that tiny air intake and compare power on any inline four equivelant. I have had several in that range as inlines with intakes opened enough to really be an annoying sound- and not even worth the 8k+ rpms it gives without the torque like the little boxer can. If that wasn't noticably incredible right away for an ea82 owner, car enthusiasts are at many levels. I would tend to lose you in conversation and true opinion. As far as crazy power.... I had n/a's leaving a few folks scratching thier heads- it was so unlikely for an old soob with the stereotyped little engine to do what it did. Burning rubber gets boring, power sliding is fun. A wagon can do it around 100hp on a throatier intake. That is all I could ask for.I don't want a hot rod, I want the job to get done. A friend taught me this a long time ago on his ea81. I could not believe what that car did for power, until I saw it out loud. Not even a turbo and the original carb. Simple porting and I believe he had access to cam. To humor the whole thing he put full duels. Very fun. He used to take it mudding with bigger trucks. Funny as heck to hear what that car did sometimes.I know an ea82 has more options, but it is up to the owner more than manufactured parts like ram engines has for an ea81 (aviation). If my soob makes it to 25 years without a rebuild still ready to drive across the continent., maybe even back to where it came from just for a joy ride 3900 miles from here- will the most stubborn of you big powered railroaded victims paying too much understand what that engine is when facts are dealt with? As a mechainc, and fellow mechaincs, knowing darn well what power is to the point of getting bored with it, the ea81/82 is a legend, when the "everydays" of driving are figured once and awhile realizong what is taken for granted, and life is longer than an ej with 4oo manic hp.
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I checked schedule of events and it was left off in 2003! I wonder if that group is dispersed.
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Creative Clock Replacement Options
bgd73 replied to Davalos's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
In one car it held my direct line oil guage.. used one wire for the light. For another I used some wiring to complete the wiring for my ac delco to have a dimmer switch automatically, like it would in the chevy it came from. On my current soob, the clock is 20 and still running... with full guages, I could use a suggestion or two also. I have noticed the carb models keep it longer, no doubt due to less top end engine heat and simple electrical. I do have a mini amp meter, but the volt guage gets both like a light dimming to power drawn "why I have an ammeter"? I thought to myself. Maybe a tranny temp guage... rear diff temp guage like a rig would have... air wind speed guage like an airplane... with pitot tube on the hood as an ornament ... maybe an altimeter guage!.... fuel mpg reader... vacuum monitor... fuel pressure... EGT "percent of throttle" ... A 20 guage steel cup holder.... a small light blinking to #4 plug wire, or maybe all 4 wires on 4 lights in the shape of the firing order... another heat duct... onbaord video cam mount like a cop car... one of those things that dance light to music (what is the name of that exactly?)... a big red button with "Eject" stamped underneath... Hmmmmm. A rear view mirror... outside air temp, intake air temp, humidity.. (that would go well with my old carb soob experiment) -
I really like the setup. A jacked up hatch seems to be my favorite even never owning one (they are rare here!). If to lift a soob in my future I honestly would do it for the little hatch only.. I bet it is alot of fun- it looks it
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1988 GL Wagon Running at High Temps
bgd73 replied to JoshD's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
the mystery drops are water pump or metal lines going into it.. you have air in the system even after it stops. be sure its full, if engine sounds good just keep driving. The sensor checks could even come after verifying thermostat. A sticky thermostat chooses the rubber seal in the pump to let go of pressure if cap at radiator isn't releasing before the water pump does it. Don't run without one- the bypass for heat route gets bypassed and engine isn't as cool as you may get a reading for. In alaska, did you get any fast cold snaps lately? that attacks mine every year.. never to worry if there is drops, but the high temp reading isn't good no doubt.If engine sounds good,and consumption is stopped fixes are cheap. -
as stated in an earlier post in this thread... they are going to get crazy boost when not wanted. A real rock crawler has full thumping cylinders by perfect cams, low rpms and of course "rock crawling" gears. Seems quite bizarre to choose a high jumping manic depressive rally engine for such a precise chore.
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It Worked!! Befrore fix It was truly sucking in water, car was soaked to no run as I sat on the side of the drenched slushed heavy rain on the highway. I took rubber duct off and water with road salt came out dripping. I still had to turn engine over for 30secs or more after it had a chance for dry air... I took off the rubber connector to outside duct and left it off for drier weather. again, the cause for more air is some emmission stuff removed creating the super sucker and I blocked off an opening (where I put the heat riser to radiator) making the regular main duct suck too much. Also the carbs are designed to have full air, making it a likely problem, unless another opening was safe someplace else (I did not have one at the time) to keep the flow slow via greater volume. The "hillbilly heatriser" really went to work today after I hooked the rubber connector back up to outside duct (it is dry now), the restriction the rubber duct gave the plenum made my little hose really suck in a steady shot of warm air (not hot), like I wanted. I popped the hood after a short run, sure enough it was warm and functioning. I have always wanted a top end heat riser and on the drivers side. As this is my second oem carbed soob , in some winters the frigid made carb too cold and problems arose with sticking- all this was from an oem setup, unlike now, which I have made worse due to how cool it stays. The other reason I wanted another heat rise is the warm air is easy to move,to help get car to full operating temp sooner. the carb saw too many years of the hot egr (hot is an understatement) and the parts would get sticky running too cool. Now the vacuum cleaner effect it had in the rain can no longer happen, so keeping the rubber connector to outside is A-OK. Any sign of throttle stickage (while valves were closed was even more bizarre) is not happening. I can already tell the fuel mileage is almost back to normal.I am finishing it off with a section of aluminum piping and not even going to laugh at how simple that got for me to fix. I spotted below zero or near zero F for lows here next week, will be sighing relief at a good functioning carb doubt free, and can try it for certain then. Todays run was in the 20's F and car warmed up fairly quick, throttle was normal.
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If rust wasn't intimidating, a welder/rivets/ metal makes the old soob stronger than ever. I target them before anything starts happenning.. even now when some of them are 20 (my current one). As far as another brand, I have searched too. there is the small foriegn trucks, four cylinder, but handling truly stinks on real roads, real speed limits and when they are really non-toy over jacked up top heavy ridiculous the engineering is going to be a winner someday... until there is the benefit of a wagon and more seats needed. Somebody lost reality a long time ago in a real 4x4, the old ones are now a "legend" (isn't that a shameful thought about common sense).There was the fore runner toyota type trucks, and they too proved to be a bit dangerous in real scenarios. On apersonal note- the ej scares me. (Not the power, the dainty engineering doing big things). I have been in all of them. The economy of the old soobs is another winner. I did drive a chevy tracker a few times at 2 liters and 15 inch wheels, seemed decent until I encountered the constant braking, no sense of gearing and the height, yet again, making it a toy looking jackass- ready to flip over on a slide on a leaning road. Ridiculous! The thought of "rally mode" and 4x4 and truly a strong hard thumping full cammed n/a small 3 main bearing 4 cylinder boxer engine Simplified with 2 valves per cylinder and singular carb/injection ,would be quite nice, anytime now- on a REAL crankshaft and block. I have kicked the ej's railroad right out of my mentality. I cringe at the thought of -30F and a crankshaft as skinny as a body panel throwing rods over twice its thickness into action. Repulsive.The mystery hard engine noises that have climbed out of the ej soobs has made my decision. The old soob is still a winner. Always will be. FOREVER. Ever saw the discovery "90"? I thought "wow I want one". Went to ebay and found out that common sense buggy can sell for 35k used with dents. the world is quite a thief sometimes. What they did for the little 4wds mentality is clearly a victim of it.
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Anyone else had to repair this?
bgd73 replied to bgd73's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The driver side wiper is now tight, the passenger is floating. I am wondering now if the car is a bender. My other 87 had its spells but always returned. Just one of those things.. I had to add a leading edge for the hood seal as well and I painted inside the wiper linkage/vent bay and swapped out linkage for a 93 a month or so ago. It was shaking the car on high speed, maybe a torque bind. With the plastic ball joints being a bit sloppy and lubed as well, I have shrugged the thought that the linkage is wrong. Another precise thing to tinker with I guess.. The angle of the windshield is dramatically increased on a low front end and High back end - alot of wagons do this by oem build, especially 4wd as the back end gyros itself up on the highway a few inches. I was curious to know if it was common on the 80's soobs. even the metal for the bodies seem a bit different abd more "spring" like. Have had other oddities too only on the older pre loyales. -
this had been posted but why not.. 87 gl 107k (a baby no doubt) 87 DL 166k (body broke) 93 loyale 159k (totalled) with me behind the wheel of an ea82 since 97 , total miles for the 3 of them: 73k miles +/- and that seems conservative, but I have had other cars to try and save the old soobs.. my plans haven't exactly worked out yet but trying!
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That is an odd injury. would love some photos!
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This seemed to be a local prob.I can ask here. Have seen it more than once. ingredients seem to be ice storm prone area /snow and wagons that stay jacked up in the back end. The air pressure on windshield is tremendous on the jacked up soobs, I can hear mine whistle when wiper is all the way up on the highway, and wiper motor struggles to bring them back down for another cycle. This setup was my fault, I thought I could get a bit more spring pressure, and it broke while sitting static in the driveway overnight. I soon learned there was a problem after getting on the highway in heavy rain and floating happened. For a temporary fix I banged on the wiper mount to bend it for spring pressure, and cracked the windshield- and still had no correct wiper. Was not a good day. I hope the crack is passable, inspection next month.
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not much for sentimental value. Factually: there is not <1.8 liters on 3 main bearings doing what it does now or then like a soob does with it. how it does what it does for the longevity it does it the simplicity in which it does power to weight ratio is darn near mythical by any standard. econimically priceless treat it like a bigger 4wd, because it can The carb versions oem are the tightest cam full stroking ea82s oem ever made. Carbs being out for over half a century has got me baffled at the confusion by young folks and ladies of the simplest repairable gadget ever made. The stoich curve was mastered by hitachi, I prove it all the time in all weather. The spfi was great, except for the delayed sloppy cams I have only learned to be because the ecu wasn't fast enough to run a "full" engine (anybody remember the constant hesitating and blaming one gadget at a time?) I have thought of other vehicles in similar setups proportianately. The "little" soob is still the winner. I am going to check on a few junkers just so I can park this. I attempted the same with my 87 dl and strangely went through 3 autos to 1 soob still sitting there, ending up my daily driver once again (I killed it because of it). I do not want to annhilate another old soob. I want to treat it like a classic car owner would, by forgetting I even have an old soob going about my business.Heck , I even declared my 2wd 5spd a forever classic, for facts that simply cannot be denied. I killed that too and almost feel bad for the work I did extra.
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hg again
bgd73 replied to Downbound's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I have a pit in my stomach after reading your post.I thought errors you had were impossible. now my opinion is even worse about ej engines. Did they simply bottom a bolt too long? (obviously). To strip one, by a pro's standard.... that is a scary thought about block integrity. I hope you get great service to make up for troubles, and it was a mechanic irresponsible. -
I have been thinking .... I thought of this with my other 87 (DL) when it was only 10. Now I have one that is 20. and dual range. and a crazy modern thing called "power steering". When I bought my other 87, it was from a dealer. "These models are the winners." I knew what he meant. The carb version. The mislabeled taller and tougher suspension. The LSD that is all of them, yet "never had it".The true stories of a little engine that could.My 4wd high mode easily climbed a vertical pit wall. All the talk of real short gears in 4wd was not even a thought- In fact taller tires were the big "must have" and that was about it. I am contemplating a purchase of another car of any make and model so I can park my wagon. Am I over valuing an old soob? I have seen them all, heard them all, at a minumim sat behind the wheel and throttled it. The carb oem is the winner. I want to hide it. To put some more facts into it. 85-87 was the carbed version ea82? Where did that suspension come from? I can tell a carb soob withoput popping the hood and by the full oem exhaust. I have declared them special- anyone agree?
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easiest way to remove clutch fan EA82
bgd73 replied to idosubaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
clutch fan RULES. I even use it to judge cam timing. the carbs by far are the monster ea82s oem, that fan literally can shake the hood and make a wiper lift though a bad hood seal. electric fans have the same prob as an electric supercharger- they are spinning, but not all that effective.I like nature through the rad, there is an invisible static grounder that loves coolant, does not like the electric fan, anyhoo, rather than confuse the misunderstanding... I had no clue the shaft was square- I manage to keep belts on, crack them free, then go from there with half a fan shroud it is well worth the patience for that fans supreme function. -
For those of you with SOFT brake pedals
bgd73 replied to EYE_WHY's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
hey eye_why glad it is fixed. A bad MC is just that, no inbetween. to the floor and no brakes means bad simply. The hubs are the champion here in the backend, especially 4wd- not to mention the true heavier steel in a light wagon back end being a better gyro. Where it is sunny and dry much of the time, the rotors are fabulous like the area they are "hanging out" in. (pun intended). If it is good enough for a tractor trailer, its good enough for me. -
not an expert... but did find a rare case of shavings acting as a sand blaster in the coolant- from little rubber hoses at the bend breaking and a mystery pump that healed itself. I only found it after tipping radiator upside down to have some fall out. even a flush with new fluid can't get it all. Could be slag as the source or someone dumped some bad sealant in system to stop a leak.This may be the case with yours. also, Out of balance pulley while running watch the pump, see if it is wobbling.
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no replies again for something this complex, I resorted to ingenuity. This is summary with cause and effect: scrapped egr, asv,abf completely Effect: carb too cold, sucks in more air, good for alot more power,but problematic in bad weather by sucking in water. here is my hillbilly resolve. After looking at the size of both hitachi barrells, they are quite venturid to keep the little 1781 from being a mini monster. I spotted the open tranny cooler lines not in use, here is what I did: The temp guage dropped 2 widths of the needle at an idle. with hood shut I revved for a little while, and lo and behold it uses it for warm air is easier to move. below is photo of what I had to do in the weather scenario I was in yesterday, just to go down the road (4-6 inches slush, raining and fog- if 200% humidity were possible, I was in it) kept air sucking from within engine bay- and it still wanted water. With above photo and this one, it should stay decent after I out a round hose on the bottom round opening and have that sitting by the center of the engine behind carb. I have proven to myself cool air is not a winner for the hitachi, as it is sucking quitye a bit and compressing into super cooled even with oem heat risers. Will know for certain next storm. As it is the 2bbl is very responsive now (as much as the little hitachi can).
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Here is an old land rover- It is my favorite for a buggy just by looking at it. = I do not understand the soobs and even some toyota/nissans getting lifted. They are very light and need the wheels wrapped by body weight for true capability. I would even call it dangerous as it has been proven in my area for years about the little trucks lifted. The most success from a s0ob I have seen is make the big tires/wheels fit and no lift (lifting a soob isn't popular here at all- just going down the road for many parts of the year needs a no BS 4x4, not a toy). With a d/r 1987 GL now, I still only want bigger wheels filling the wells precisely for all maneuvering- from my own experience, with all aspects of offroading, the setup aforementioned would dominate until the deep water hole- I have not had a reason for that yet to make a lift worth it. It is interesting to see some of the setups, I have decided never to have extreme 4wd setup in a soob- It is not true to me. The ones I have seen here via photo and vid proved what I thought would happen out loud- Anyone know of the outback vid, where the car has hardly any lift and the biggest tires I have seen yet fit in the wells, going through a very unlikely hole- that is the best proven out loud I have seen, the car did not lose the body weight over the wheels, and the vid proved it. I saw it from here someplace, plowed through like an engineered land rover. It is a shame I despise the ej engine for hard work, that outback was quite interesting.