bgd73

bump. I just ordered this rocker cheaply from mill supply. I am hoping someone has done this here and can inform what the guage and actual precision is? I have seen this part ordered with disappointment in that there was no leading edge that hangs down- that edge is very strong and the whole point of the original rocker.OEMs version could hold a jack to lift the car and take rocks logs and other 4wd mishaps. After a phone call I was told that it is a complete replacement form front to back and has the edge for the backing plate that goes back to the bodies belly. At 5.5 lbs for a 60 inch piece of steel, I figured it must be a good replacement. Would like opinions. I have made my own rocker and broke the belly in another soob. The signal has to be fast and strong like only steel could for the rocker panels area. My version was heavier than oem, but killed the belly (quite bizarre).I honestly would rather hand make a wheel well than guess at that rocker beam integrity again on the 4wd wagons (especially with lsd).

If the engine is good, so is every oil. miles and years and the dynamics of engine wear in thier locale change the oil brands for those who pay attention to it. mineral oil sounds interesting, except for my locale. I knew of rotella 15W40 being used in soobs with great claims, but i just go with regular stuff.There is many options. after tearing down an old ea82 I used castrol high mileage with, I may go all synthetic as I found something that could only come with an additive- the greyish teflon looking stuff. That does come with fuel additives that i have tried, so I can't really be sure. I don't know as high mileage castrol even mentions additives. After the synthetic thread and some posts of good results, my 105k ea82 is still quite tight and will upgrade to full synthetic. If it worked for the synthetic grease on the axle bearings, I am optimistic about the engine as well. As it is, I have some kind of super lube hasppening as the oil only gets luke warm after high speeds down the highway in this cooler weather. my spfi soob was a roaster in comparison. So even the different ea82s can determine a favorite oil.

defy the torques. I found anomilies like that at the oil pump, cam casings. Twisting it off it a bit too tight

hows castrol synthetic in an old ea82? I get quite a stench from synthetic... should I just wait it out? chemistry change? closest I get to synthetic is castrol high mileage. Will try it out. this is good info. Last quest into this left me thinking old engines couldn't have it.

That approach is not unusual to me, not just with soobs. In fact soobs are by far my proven favorite to leave alone. The only breakdown I have ever had was on a carbed subaru. And that was just once in 8 years The spfi did something I really liked fuel related, erasing all doubts. It had enough delivery for anything I wanted to do. Some older cars built for power even just slightly beyond oem like mine needed all the extras for fuel, and even oil. My soob is doing the same thing- all for a more powerful 90hp. :-\ I went through this once on my other 87, will do it again, a bit different with stuff I figured out. One more attempt at a question for the religious fsm people-- will 4psi regulator be too much even in conjunction with oem's regulator? I can experiment simple enough, maybe get it right first shot save me tme if someone knows. This whole thread would no doubt be interesting by the other fellow arctic tundra soob drivers with a carb...

ok. figured it out. There is the holley regulator with a bypass/return #12-803 or 12-804, both will work cheaply with rebuildable parts for under 10 bucks forever. if to use the 4-7 psi pump, which is still too much for the dainty hitachi, the bypass on regulator will not be needed and I can use the low pressure pump spring in regulator, also leaving an opening for a guage. the FI pumps will need the return line, not a problem, I just won't have an opening on the regulator. I am certain now any pump is compatible. I am also stopping another ridiculous engineered thought that pulsating pumps were necessary for carbs(the old soobs are one of few aside from usa that held onto that engineering for the year). Lastly, I live in a place where weather turns things upside down. (todays ice storm for example). the greatest benefit to FI was the high pressured pump. Now I can take advantage of that when nature makes fuel seem to be 3 tons a gallon to pump by placing regulator above the level of the carb mounted on a strut tower at much higher psi,responsive, airless, colder, compressing fuel... all this for 35 bucks +/- delivered by summit. I have 2 pumps here that weren't/aren't cheap like new or really are new, and want all options. Also, with spfi pump in, I will be setup for conversion as I have all the parts to do so (need a diagram for 93 2wd ECU). And that is what I am trying to do. my last 87 was a different car entirely and the icing on the cake was the flawless -23F start at 17 years old, on the slightly higher psi mystery pump . 4 is too much, and 3 is not enough. Hitachi has it tighter than a mouse fart, and I want to maximize it with regulator. Also, heat risers were unnecassary after maxxing fuel flow. I was hoping someone did this in this group. Years ago, I had heard of it done on the odd pressured soob (3.3), and never got details, except that it was an spfi soob going back to a carb- while using the high psi fuel pump that went with spfi.The only other thing I can think of is the return lines not being usable due to a clog. Original pumps were so close to the pressure need, the return line never got used. I am hoping I got it correct, will know soon enough. If there are any tips is why I posted.

I have an 87 GL with hitachi. I ridded the problems I had with it and now it is down to fuel, it is just out of reach of the more air flow down the barrells to stay happy with enough fuel. I got real lucky on a fuel pump several years ago that seems to be non-existent. I do not want to go that route again. I have 2 fuel pumps, one being a spfi high pressure, and the other a 4-7 psi, slightly high. Rather than another fuel pump, I want a regulator that does it all and allows me to tune it in maximum for the unique non-oem flow I have created. This does work as I have done it before, the carb whistled like a tea pot and really took in some flow (again, due to the lucky find of strange fuel pump, I can't seem to find anymore) I found several regulators that go below the 4 pound mark, one brand name being holley (part 12-804). Anybody has done this, advice on a good regulator (<$50) would be great. And weber convert advice not needed. The hitachi does my old soob well. A dynamical regulator would be awesome, I am uncertain of brands and makes, types etc. A custom soob expert would be great. As of now, the holley seems to fit, but I can't seem to find a how to or definitions of how dynamical it really is.

How is the wet spots by cam casings? just tighten them. .5mm is all that is need to keep the hla's quiet. I exceed torques to tighten clearance even more, and it not only quiets noise, increases power due to valves opening a tiny bit more. If the tick goes away, comes and goes, it is nothing to worry about. If tightening external bolts doesn't work, take valve covers off and tighten the internal cam casing ones. You will know a serious hla, oil pump problem- random ticking is not one of them. My latest had a pressure relief bolt that completely unscrewed itslef and fell out onto the ground when I took a valve cover off- that was a sound I won't be forgetting, as ea82's just don't simply make noise, they are simply quiet.The pressure still climbed to 40+ psi and car was quite drivable. Steel bangin around in aluminum needs retorquing every decade or so. Speaking of pump, I finished my experience with 2 ea82's and posted imprtance http://93loyale.com/opump.html

go stronger than oem if you can. Metal fatigue is at the root of paint failing, then rust. There is an xt6 here destroyed in the back end, same area, but rear end doesn't even seem to be attached. Think like an airplane fabricator would.. seems to be the best bet. (steel tubing, non-intrusive for feet etc.) Good luck, that is a common new england flaw. It is surprising what little extra turns into tons of strength vs oems attempt at being as conservative as possible to get the job done. 1 steel tube in magic spots could hold a freakin v8. (I have been thinking of it randomly for years...).

The inside one is important, if you have two. there is the bolt on the lower right of pump that is real close to getting hit by belt. In fact I found one broken and sitting in the pump for reasons I could only assume to be an arctic breeze and too much heat getting too close for the tolerance- and it was a source of leak. If this is what you are talking about, leave the belt guides on no doubts. Also, that lower right bolt could be swapped for a tougher version than sube used oem. To simply explain, find a bolt somewhere else on the car and swap with same pitch, length and diameter and it looks like the washer is built into the head of the bolt, leaving a washer unnecessary- its got a "fathead" and still 10 mm.It takes 10 more ft lbs than oems original. Upon looking at the pump off the car, the bolt pattern is assymetrical for pressure dispersal, and that lower right bolt gets more than the others. Keep the guides, and my other advice is an optional extra.

I have spotted 3 of them in my travels- all of them looked good, drivelines annhilated. 2 of those 3 were legacy gt's, none turbo'd. I like the interiors, heavier feel (Subaru is good at light vehicles pretending heavy). I have two EA82 engines complete and current soob has d/r, but body is not oem due to repairs... just thinkin... long after ej's are dead the 90's playdoh metal is still lookin pretty.

I am an optimist about cars, even after learning there are entire generations forgotten due to the embarrassing mistakes by engineers, then there are those not quite forgotten, doing the unthinkable to possible record breaking. the complaints are necessary out loud by us real people and spenders- it avoids the marketing digging at your wallet with a smile never admitting that possibly 10 years of a flawed design is just that... I am still chuckling at the thought of a 69 ford falcon with a v8 that racked over 3 times, no repairs and 13 inch tires and got over 25mpg more often than not... or the 14000 dollar chevy corsica that could explode drivelines so violently at any moment driving normally an entire new setup would have to be swapped to not even see another 100k with same problems. Newer Subaru is just another example. The old ones are forgotten, unsupported, and by far the most popular economically and durability and maintenance. I hope there are no grudges for big money spenders to create yet another extreme in the auto world (Like the rwd v8 now? its like an exotic 40k car just to think of having one.) .There are alot of extremes generated because of these flaws, I can't wait to see what I will be laughing out loud about next..I am never owning a newer subaru. Not even taking it personally. good luck to the poster of this thread. 149k may just have eweak enough compression to hang onto a gasket until the rings worn.

There is an onramp by the house, I turn right onto it.. Without fail, everytime, the car coughs, hesitates and I have gone as far as pushing in the clutch and flooring it- does it less when warm, but still there.... the only spot they do it in.Its been a year and a half for this ramp and I and 2 cars. I blamed my soobs, until my friend and i in a 4.3 liter gm pickup did the same thing on the same corner...a cough. I have gone over that spot with a bicycle and tried to figure it out. There is wires overhead, and they run under a rather lengthy bridge over the river... is there some kind of super invisible ground going on? GD.. any ideas? I found the taller the vehicle the better in this spot. what can I do for a soob?

My spfi is backwards, my wagon isn't. My wagon with a carb oem doesn't seem to be off at all, they both line up. they are both oem. There are different cams for the carb to spfi, spfi taking the wrong timing dramatically due to the btdc timing on the cam. Carb cams are quite tight to fill the cylinder, an old soob could go years incorrectly without much notice. Turbo engines would really know there was something wrong, more than any other with timing off. Any carbed ea82 photos oem? I regret not taking one of mine- the teeth weren't even off aligned from each other, they were in same spot, or at least very closely.Another reason for my questions about this.:-\

I am not sure how to tell some of you EJ fans....in this "older generation" section... I love engines. To the point of false accusations. I love engines.(I think I have said this here much more than once) EJ series will never be one of them. Like the inline four, inline 6, and 60 degree v6... I have only grown to like 2 for natural power returned for thier design, the 3 main boxer and a 90 degree v8- simple potential for incredible power given by a displacement- SIMPLY.They are my engines of choice to play with, the rest are just driven with a yawn and bigger wallett it seems more times than not. A v8 full of mistakes could blow the doors off of the biggest baddest four banger on the planet with more overthought gadgets that leave me chuckling to this day. We all have our hobby type motivation for old soobs.... I began to change my mind about the "ea" when after simply changing a timing belt and scrapping all EGR, and simple tune-up on my 5spd 93 loyale 2wd kept up with a 2.2 n/a impreza (is that not the so called "legendary" rally block?)- I even thought the impreza was "playing with me" until the tell tale signs of this impreza going way beyond speed limit for top end and smelling its exhaust climb into my car (repulsively metallic suiciding exhaust). I even exceeded my tires 90mph tire rating .. as the car did not want to die, it only got more powerful the more air hit it into 6500rpm and still no sponge on throttle- unlike a suiciding EJ with too many friction points on the engine.. 10 years for me with the ea, and I am still astonished at what Subaru did and didn't do for "motorheads" like myself with the ea as a target for fun/sport/race. looking the engine over with what I have learned about them, even the singular intake channel is not small - I have taken stock plugs and wires and even the old carb contently to 7k and chose to let off, all with a 30 dollar fuel pump at 5psi vs oem 3. If someone has tinkered with these, somewhat seriously, and proved thier little ea soob was not slow anymore, would love to chat. Simply stating fuel and air changes, not even dramatically by my own building knowledge had me saying "phenomonal " out loud "This engine is only 1781cc pushing 4wd drive train- contently". My wagon seems to be hopeless right now, I am trying to achieve power enough for short onramps- 0-60 in under 8 is not fast, but a lifesaver for some of my travels. My question of the intake and restricting it- Can I attempt it? I am guessing yes to drivers side more than passenger for heater line, and keeping below the carb open (I have proven to myself it really needs it unlike the hot flowing maf'd SPFI) Any backyard experts? I ams serious here with my question. I am with a 20 year old soob and really like it as my daily driver- I don't exactly wax it on a nice sunday, you know what I mean?

Subaru would not go all out different for a "poor mans impreza" <-( repulsive quote by the writer of article I found). 16 valves means 4 crazy cams, 5 mains and open deck (I am guessing it is open deck). if dimensions of the steel are the same as the pretending giant wannabes, this would last, except , I would no doubt keep the internals spotless on the highest grade viscosty oil on the planet to keep all those bearing surfaces and cam contacts, etc lubed well for the little thumping cylinders.(unlike an ea82 you could run on fire, out of oil, temp guage buried and still doing 80 with antifreeze squirting all over the windshield while base is filling with water and the air cleaner is clogged with mud. ).

I am glad to see your opinion and that you like it. Of all EJ style engines, that 1.5 may ne a winner in the long run (I am guessing it be with what I have learned). I do not even like the EJ, but the strange things Subaru has done to the boxer just may last in smaller displacement.I don't believe they are in the usa- (?) I would drive one after they have been used. D/R is perfect in that displacement, a necessity I would imagine. Congrats, would love to know how it does in the long run...

No doubt about the coolant under the intake-- there is a way to get a super flow to help on the single channel, the double (mpfi) should be naturally decent, but it never lasts for me.The carbs almost win... but don't. The hot spfi will never win without a mod on that coolant channel. You lost me about "muffler bearing" it is not stated in my post, must be your own mind- may as well check blinker fluid while your lubing muffler. I have acheived power with ea82, no turbo.. to keep it consistently has been impossible. I examined the heads, intake channel size. It truly is decent for a 4 cyl- it is never shared, but one cylinder at a time, in fact, for the displacement they are rather large. I would take one to 9k rpm if that coolant channel didn't super expand air/fuel. If anything, that subtle pressure called vacuum is quite a helper on the single channel.The intake coolant channel taking over is a very good thought- I will target it, as I have an intake ready to go cleaned up a bit (slightly more air)- maybe restrict that channel? I do not know if it will hurt anything. The spfi sedan I had running cold literally sucked me into my seat, and easily lit up the tires (both of them)- and quickly the curve died off into a full warm engine.... There is a little monster lurking in the ea82 and I really want it in action. so to sum it up for the muffler lubers: Can the channel of coolant below intake be restricted, or even done away with (I really do not want it gone entirely for same reasons of power/efficiency) ?

I looked at the car. 10 years now. .. tore apart an engine, broke a unibody, totalled a sedan (that kept running on 2 cyls...). twisted, jumped a downtown hill beating a redlight (2000lbs? pffft. Yeah Right.) . bumped, burned a little rubber and still have answered only a few secrets about getting realistic power. The car is light, displacement decent. I have had a 1600 and 1800 other models- also known for slow, and they moved right along with a thing called AIR. I have figured out: tight Cams, clean open cool intake, at least 9:1 (even if I had a turbo), hot fast plugs and a clutch fan shrouded...super lube the bearings, replaced/covered rust with aluminum., and painted.and 2 inch exhaust, no more, slightly less like oem in the back to keep it hot and "lubed" to flow. What am I missing..... I have gone as far as getting an exotic sound of an old porsche 7000rpms easily, full stroked sounding (carb cams of course), backfiring between gears sometimes.... what in heck am I missing. I can say the torque is there at all times. On nearly new tires my wagon hydro planes (one wheel "burns rubber" in all rain all speeds, rather easily unless 4wd (or 2wds seem to stay planted- same tires). is there something anchoring my wagon? tranny shaft slow? rear end? what is it?

thanks for moderating. "Scooby" is very much a topic, as a nickname, its been there randomly heard since the 70's for soobs. Avoiding thoughts it being childish, I satisfied the reason beyond a rhyme (did you read my first post?). That's all.

The wagons gain alooooot of pressure when dropped, on the underside. Modern rally soobs seem to coincide with favoring the sedan for that very reason... and they are putting goofy wings on the back like a midget honda. I have always wanted a lower wagon , but at a minumum a high flowing exhaust, possibly out both sides all the way back (duals). I can't even say why accurately.....but personally. Looks good however

steel is tricky. I would love to know how a guage you can carry around as a sheet, once installed, with the cars angles gains weigh over its pre-install weight.... I learned this with race cars. A simple rod at a few lbs in a sweet spot on the car was suddenly 500lbs heavier on the scale. soobs do the same. there are many channels that stay air tight, they have weight. physics no doubt about it. Suspension playing with the scale can perfectly jackhammer it down to heavy. Tighten the soobs back end suspension, watch what happens on the sscales (they get lighter, the tighter you make it).

I was looking for some deeper meaning. Simple works. The only cv boot with a collar that worked its way off is right where that flap is now (inner boot collar). Hmmmm. The other side has an exhaust pipe, exhaust pipes flow, air around it will too. passenger side is left a void. I guess Subaru did study the aerodynamics of thier car even for the 80's. othere than the boot, the pass. side was in better shape than drivers. Thanks.

Each car is different. the sticky threads attempted to get all but didn't. not to mention custom.I tried to explain my unusually oem tall 87, and gl touring suspension seems to be the explanation, except, I do not have one. this is my other 87 with 24.5+ inch tall 13's (believe it or not) looks quite normal doesn't it? they were very skinny as well. As it turned out, they were trailer tires for a mobile home of sorts- dealer who sold them to me never informed me. 70mph was bouncin around all over, this photo is of them deflated to be normal ride. The loyales are also hit or miss with different heights unexplainable oem, but most I have found are lower than the bizarre combos you could find in the 80's. The very question about tires is asked many times, and each time needs an individual answer it seems... even front to back good be 2 different models suspensions. making a wheelie or jacked up back end or both ends high or low.

Ok. I humored the previous owners attempt at calling the car "scooby".. or whatever they were doing. I found this sticker and laughed. My car turns pink in the rain.. any decal makers? would like a very small version of this one: and this one, I like better if it could be enlarged (4wd crawling?):