bgd73

excellent explanation! I'm hell bent on keeping my 38 mpg tho!

break a yoke, and you'll find its more than that!

An exhaust system just right does away with it. check immediately after muffler (tail pipe) for any holes. This noise is harder to do away with when there is no sound resignator(this is in midpipe), but can be done.

Ok, not to start insulting... I'll explain slowly as I can...... To take a fluid from a containment needs something to replace it, unless we are riding an exact expansion into a different density for our fluids end journey (and even then, the replacement for what goes missing has to happen eventually) . Air seems to be the "freeby" most gas tanks utilize. My tank wasn't getting it. It desires the gas cap to be vented. Of course after all this it means tank went vacuumed(before I vented cap). My question is ... By oem build was SPFI loyale (1993) a vented gas cap, or is it another means to vent tank.If not so I've got a problem!! I have book that reveals many engine facts, does not talk about the gas tank ( you would think that it would be very much part of the fuel system, in detail!) Ahhh, the "haynes" books are so thorough... (you should have seen the diagram to put ECM in test mode! I had to figure it out on my own, it was nothing like it.)

There may be a cover nearly over front u-joint (if its the 1987 i see in your post). wiggle stuff around, it looks like a cup coming out of back of tranny over drivershaft.My 87 soob did the noise when yoke, cap and berring loosened up.I also had a "trick" exhaust pipe that barely touched the driveshaft at sound resignator when hot, and also when all 4 tires were not the same.Those pesky noises......

ok. After drilling hole in non-subaru tight sealed cap, The car runs better.I now have a gas smell at idle from engine compartment, I stuck my nose under the hood and can't find a damn thing, I did localize it close to the tbi,to no exact place of origin. I have to rule out all vacuum lines and canister( i did much replacing and clamping). Is there a common prob related to this? Invisibles are quite a peeve.....

I found tank under vacuum pressure below 1 quarter of a tank. Is something clogged? or do I scrap the non-vented gas cap (tight seal)?

thanks, will start the search......

I really need to change my wheels on my highwayed 93 loyale 2wd(4 lug). I would like 15 inch. I have found other posts with alot of work I do not find worthwhile for this "conversion".I cant seem to keep it contently balanced all the way around, (while parts necessary to keep it so are good) on long trips@ high speed (struts go weak to those little benders?).I have 12 oem wheels, 8 new tires mounted and I cant make it good. I have thought of the struts, but every make and model car I've had with 13" wheels really sucked at higher speeds(65-70mph they seem to start throwing thier flaws at me).I would like to drop the height of the rubber and give it bigger on the steel/aluminum wheel. Any cheap ideas? (not pertaining to post; these are other things I've had to "fix" on my 93 loyale): http://users.adelphia.net/~barrygd73/suby.html thanks!

Interesting question to me.... My car ticks randomly presice. The dramatic change from february to june (Maine weather IS brutal.As of the end of june, our temp range is almost 120 degrees F.) My car also ticks very close to a day after California decides to shake around 5 or above on the richter. My car also ticks when lightning gets a bit too close. The socond soob I've owned in 9 years and I get identical results....It also ticks (even with 5w30) at 10 degrees F or below , sometimes for Minutes! My car ticks for short times after a waxing, cleaning, oil change, antifreeze change, hauling something (after a full cool down).My car ticked after adding 30+ ft electrical wire for speakers. it ticked for 5 cold starts after changing alternator. The biggest ticker maker I've had has been the 2 timing belts changed(that took a week and at least a dozen starts.) It also ticked when plugs, wires and cap were changed. my car has 138k, 93 loyale. It takes a licking and .... only does ticking for a little while.

hello! I have a 93 loyale, and decide to repack the rear with high temp synthetic grease @137k miles. I am quite noisy between 45-55mph only. Strange! Do I just wait for the buzz of cooler steel to mate? Or, did I do something wrong....

I found this on ebay... "The Pro Choice Module simply hooks up to your Intake Air Temperature or Coolant Temperature Sensor with Scotch Locks provided." "Add 10-22hp to your power train " I'm nearly jumping for joy.....could someone straighten me out?

You're crazy! Hint: its got two lanes, nobody in them, and both going your direction..... I revealed an engine code after getting book on how to do so. As it turns out part of the bog problem i was ignoring was an "egr solenoid valve". I took the egr vacuum off, just in case it was staying open.It didnt do anything better. What a retarded valve. Why cant they keep the egr's on the 5mpg hemi and similar. But oh no! They had to target the humble soob1.8 @38 mpg Naturally.

Yes the plate affects performance, and if extreme enough will limit rpms! It has to be carefully put back in its seams (i used tiny regular screwdriver, such as for pc.) and sealed it with permatex.It keeps the rubber intake its original shape, to maximize airflow.As far as "area 51".......

Thanks again. Rewiring it is then.... I'd still like to know the mystery of common ground that doesnt even come back to radio normally, and still be able to balance, fade individual speakers. Better off with true four channels, upon taking old subaru radio out, the harness on back of radio wasnt exactly the same as the car's. I bet i would have gone through subaru radio #3 (at least)..... I managed to hack in a delco from a 96 corsica....just have to get the "dimmer" wire for the panel lights working....

Thanks for replies. My radio sounds good. The post mentioning finding the hertz freq, is close to what i am referring to. For a few moments after radio install, the idle went wierd going from 500 to 1000 rapidly. I coincidentally listen to bass music..... It had no radio for 3 months, and it was noticable. what is with the common ground for some of the speakers, which will make a normal 4 channel radio run into problems where it would be fixed, with adding more wires? I can't get a normal channel when i go 4 channels.the plugin harness is clearly missing a couple of grounds. Strangely the front speakers only work with the corresponding rear speakers ground, and I can not hook up another channels ground (the rear speakers).All the positives are there, just like a schematic I found. It works with 2 only.All the wires are there doing what subaru did with them.Somewhere in that mess of wires is a merge for some speakers, where is it at? And what is that combining doing? Should i run All new wiring? ty for replies. This site literally helped me keep my favorite subaru out of a junk yard!

Does the car radio help to take static away from the engine's electronics? through the speakers? I would like to verify.

http://users.adelphia.net/~barrygd73/suby.html pictures are worth many words.

why the full inch difference noted for the 4wd and 2wd? If the difference is real, could a 2wd take the bigger clutch?

Hi, My 93 did the same... As with the previous posts fix simple stuff first , As I did. A huge relief was a mod i made to the "rubber" air intake from the air filter housing to the tbi. It is an exact fit steel pipe for now (I refuse to say where i got it.)I was giving throttle manually under hood and watched the rubber squeeze tighter as if to constrict.I replaced what i could with the pipe, not to interfere with the vacuum hookups, and also enough flex rubber left to let engine rock and roll. It helped mine tremendously. Also, at the top of the tbi is a plate on the rubber intake that says "subaru" and "fi". that absolutely has to be in its oem spot! (not "peeling" off the air intake, etc). this spot also "caves in", at the worst spot it could. The plate i am referring to, if correctly mounted also keeps air cool as it compresses through that "tiny" perpendicular square opening down into tbi, as well as keeps it "puffed up" on higher air demands. I'll have a pic next post if interested.I was even going to resort to another fuel pump, until I saw what that intake did , rather extremely. This may help, if you are very sure about all other possibilities.

hey, thanks. I recently changed some timing belts, one was a tooth off. The distributor was all the way to one side of its allowable timing adjustment, gave me a crazy acceleration, and limited rpms. I moved dist. slightly back and clutch stopped slipping, and i can climb gracefully to 5000 or so ( I hardly go to 4000, with my driving habit). As far as the cable goes, I "attacked" its bad adjustment first thing, as well as the "hill holder" cable tugging the clutch arm the other way.That hill holder is handy... Didnt know what it was until i accidentally used it! (after adjusting)

hi, You're misunderstanding the "pressure" dropping. At slow speeds less fuel "flow" within the same volume (line) pressure will appear to go up. Flowing fuel drops pressure, if pressure stayed UP, while accelerating hard, I'd be worried then. The fuel pump is steady all the time, what we do with the throttle isn't.

No, even when I had a 4wd, I stayed on the road. I did know of a NUT in an old subaru, that went just about anywhere......from bangor, too,,,,,

hi, I had identical symptoms on my 93 loyale, with timing belt probs, fuel mileage stayed great. I started with fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, air filter, o2 sensor, even the exhaust. Turned out to be old timing belts not staying as precise as necessary ....

after searching site further, i answered my question. Needs clutch. I have done all the work on my subarus and do have some helpful advice, hope to return it sometime! To further my question about clutch repair, should i just seperate the engine and tranny (i am 2wd) or should i pull engine completely......