Jerry DeMoss

A friend of mine moved here to denver with his '92 loyale and it has a little over 200k . He was curious to see how hard it is to swap in a ej22.Also how reliable are the push button 5spd 4wd trannys?I was trying to convince him to put a 5sp d/r tranny.He plans on lifting the car.What type of gearing is the rear diff? Any thoughts?

what did you find?Is it taller?

Yes Ea71 engine. Same bore as your ea81 just a shorter stroke.They are a direct fit to the 81.

definately go with the 1600 pistons cam regrind shave each head .040" get the crank knife edged if you have the money Larger valves(Ram has these for their ea81 aircraft sube engines) Heavy duty valve springs(Ram has these too) **Port the heads** The intake is very small and there is big room for improvement. The exhaust needs to be smoothed out as well as polishing the combustion chamber. Remember don't over polish the intake as the the slight roughness helps with volumetric efficiency! (On a N/A motor) That is what I plan on doing when I do a ea81 motor :cool:

I really love the video.Is your ej22 motor modified in your hatch?Sounds like it.How big of a lift you got?I gotta do a motor swap like that some day.:cool:

I did go to pns and call them several times.I got the same answer all the time from the manager and he said that they couldn't sell the car as it had no title,then I asked about the bare shell asuming stuff would be stripped off of it and he said the same thing.I then tried the "it will only be a trail vehicle" aproach and the guy the just laughed at me and said "Why the all the trouble for that piece of s#*%". I was just thinking what is up with this guy! He seemed enjoy telling me about if I wanted to see it crushed he would do it right away!Ya really nice guy!Sucks but I don't think they will sell it. I also asked about getting a salvage title and he said he would call me back on monday. Lets hope he does.

That really sucks I have not gotten a chance to go to pns in about 3 weeks.I really would love to have one of those.I hate it when they do stuff like that.It is like hanging a big juicy 30 oz steak in front of me.Well we should both go over there and beat some sense into them . Just kidding,but seriously I feel your pain!

Here's a quick list of some stuff I thought would be good to bring when offroading on a long backwoods trip: Tools: Duct tape,wire,vise grips,breaker bar& large pipe,pliers,dikes,flat head and philips screw driver,JB weld(very handy),different end wrenches and sockets(8,10,12,14,19&36mm(axle nut)(most common ones I use)and ,knife ect. Other Stuff: Some canned food that you can heat on your engine,msr camp stove,small pan,water,fork and spoon,can opener,flashlight,spare headlight bulb,oil,spare belt,antifreeze,tent and sleeping bag(unless you sleep in the car)good car jack, tire plugs,some type of air compressor,cooler for beer,and don't forget the papers for shattin'(its no fun without) Well I guess that is the basics. I would love to hear other ideas!

Thanks all talk that link answered a couple of my question I had about putting dual custom split manifolds on a ea81.I have thought as Nug said that the carbs are fairly hard to get jets for and are fairly outdated. I have also looked at the weber 48mm IDF. I haven't seen anyone run these on a suby engine yet,but I am sure its been done.Thanks.

I came across a couple 40mm solex 1barrel carbs at a local vw performance shop and they needed a good rebuild, I got to thinking about making an intake for 2 of them or how about tripple carbs?I was also looking at some different weber options but I thought I would see what oppinions people have on the solex carbs? They look very simple any thoughts?

I agree with you McBrat I didn't think that I would be running a computer on something like that.I have a question for you though,Did you go with a higher volume fuel pump when using something larger than the weber 32/36 or 38. Or if I wanted to run dual 32/36 or go with a 4barrel:slobber: . I would also like to know what the flow rate of the 32/36 or 38 is in cfm.Well that is enough thinking about that little screaming engine for now.I think I just shat myself.

Hi I thought I would see if anyone has done this or if it is even worth doing?I would like to see if anyone has ever reflashed the computers for the ea81 engine(carbureted)?Is there any benefit or should I leave it alone? Don't really know but I wanted to see if there would be a gain on a modified engine?I am contemplating this before I even have the car btw.I wanted to be able to run without a cat and maybe get rid of the O2 sensor.Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

I have seen pics of his brat before and I believe it is a holley 600cfm carb on a ea81 engine.It looks sweet!

Thanks,now I just need to hunt the pistons down.I have seen a few ea71 motors in jy but I would rather buy the pistons them selves rather than pulling apart a motor myself,may have to though.I am not worried about the intake fitment,I already have plans to build my own.Anyone know how much larger you can go on the valves and not have troubles?G' day.

Someone may have already discussed this but here is my question anyway. I would like to know what would be better for an ea81 build up.The pistons from the ea71 or the newer pistons from the ea82 mpfi.I am aware that they both fit I just thought I would see what one seems to be more durable?Does anyone know what one would have a higher c/r or are the really close anyway?I am planning on shaving off .040 off each head and doing a cam regrind.I would also like to see if it is really true if the ea81 cam that comes in the brat is really better for torque? Has anyone put larger valves in the ea81 head,if so how much bigger?Any answers for me would be great.I am just running some ideas out that I have had in my head for a while.Thanks.

Its just me but I would end up changing the intake manifold.I would just cut it up towards the carb and I believe that may be a cheaper route to go anyway. Just cut it and trim it how you need to and the weld it up and you should be set and then you will definately have higher cr.I have cut intakes on several motors so I know it can be done.

Yes you do have to evacuate the system or at least bleed off pressure to do it or you will end up doing what I have seen some people do and get sprayed with the extra pressure. It depends on what type of car you have as to where the orfice tube would be. I would say the best answer is to get a shop manual and check into the location of it.As for the cost of the orfice tube itself it should not cost you more than $10,but you will have to buy a couple cans of refrigerant to recharge it all. To make things easy on you when you want to recharge it just buy a recharge kit at the local auto parts store. I would recomend putting the can of refigerant (after everything is all hooked up and the engine is running) into a bucket of warm water.This makes the can charge the system better because you are pressurizing the system when recharging. As far as where you connect your hose to recharge also depends on your vehicle and what type of refigerant you have in your car. Most older cars have R12 and the newer ones have R134a . I hope this helps answer some questions you might have had.

I have seen on some vehicles that when the a/c is turned on and the power drops quite a bit as with yours,there is a restriction in your a/c.Just a hunch but I would check the orfice tube in your a/c. Sounds to me that there is a good possibility that it is what is wrong with it. I am betting that the orfice tube is plugged, not letting the refrigerant circulate the way it should causing the compressor to over load and make the engine work extra hard,thus making the power drop. I hope this helps.

Here is a really nice roof scoop you could use on old or new soob. I think it would work quite well especially if you do away the a/c and still want a little more cabin air flow.http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/body.htm Let me know if anyone has already tried one or has built one themselves.:-p

I was wondering if anyone knows anyplace that sells aftermarket computer or will re-flash the computer for the ej22t? I am looking for the ability of running higher boost and remap the fuel and ignition as well as doing away with the rev limiter.Maybe even the O2 sensor so I don't have to use a cat.Thanks.

Is this the best possible head choice for the swap or is there a better way to go? I am looking for a fairly durable head without worrying about warpage too much under 15-20 lbs of boost. What does everyone think? Also how durable is the 1994 subaru legacy tranny? I am looking at the possibility of a wrx tranny or the 6speed sti tranny? Also has anyone heard of using sti connecting rods on the ej22t motor,or are the stock rods good enough to hold up to 250-300hp? Anything even relative to the swap I would appreciate a word on.Oh and also I plan on using a garret t3/t4 turbo. You can also email me at: Subaru_Jerry@hotmail.com

thank you both. very good info.I am glad someone else is looking out to defend the authorita' of the sube.

Has anyone here in colorado come across any parts for the EJ22t. I am looking for a good block and possibly good 2.5rs dohc heads for the head swap.Anyone have any suggestions where to look? Or what heads I should look for? I have heard that the 2.5rs heads may not be the best to use as they may warp easier.Anyone know about that?

thanks man I will check that out.

I was wondering if anyone has had first had experience with a head swap on the EJ22T.I have heard of using heads of '97-'01 Dohc and sohc 2.5rs.I have also heard of using heads off of mid '90's model jdm wrx.I have read a bit on fitment as well as the resulting cr. I was wondering if there are any issues anyone has come across with valve timing,and what timing belt to use? I am asuming that I would use the T belt from a 2.5rs,and the head gasket from the EJ22t. I have been looking at forged pistons as well for the swap.I have not purchased the car I am contemplating this with,but I have been looking at the '94 Legacy turbo as a good starting point for a rally car. I appreciate any input.