N2FHL

Back off guys. It's a free country. If I can get you to buy my Bic pen for $10, good for me. If the price is too high, don't buy it. This guy is just trolling for a buyer with more dollars than sense---the American way.

I haven't got there yet, I can't get it to idle. It dies at under 12-1500 rpm. It was running a little rough before I tore it apart, but it is worse now.....although the smoking has stopped. So either I burned out what was left in the exhaust system or I'm running out of transmission fluid! It is running as though it has a vacuum leak although I have double and triple checked all the hoses and connections. Tomorrow night I'll drag the lights out to the street (where I do all my work) and grab my great big hemastats and start pinching off the lines until hopefully I isolate the right one. Or maybe I'll start with the propane or carb cleaner first..... Thanks to all for the feedback and wish me luck.

Interesting posts. The vacuum line to my transmission doesn't seem wet with fluid, but I'll block it off and see if the smoke stops. Also now, it won't idle, have to give it gas to keep it running. I'm guessing a vacuum leak on this one as I had all that stuff disconnected. I guess a failed vacuum solenoid/diaphragm/modulator (whatever) could cause a leak.

It failed emissions and about the same time developed a problem with white smoke (antifreeze). Intake manifold gaskets didn't solve the problem and the compression was a little low in one cylinder so off came the heads. I had the heads reconditioned and there weas no sign of cracks around the exhaust ports, but I got it back together today, fired it up and still slight white smoke. Also missing intermittently. Could I have missed a crack in the head? Could a cracked intake manifold mix coolant with the fuel? Any other place coolant can get in? Anybody know a cheap way to pressurize the cooling system and then what? Listen for a leak? Someone mentioned in a post that it took days for the catalytic converter to burn off the residue. Could this be the problem? '87 GL 3-door carbureted EA82

Failed emissions, white smoke, the intake manifold gaskets seemed ok, so I pulled the heads off my EA82 carbureted engine. I gather that my best bet is to stick with OEM gaskets. Is there a gasket kit that has all the gaskets I need or do I have to order them individually? How about the head gaskets? Do the OEM head gaskets have to be retorqued or can I use the FelPro ones? My American hands are already shreaded trying to work in those Japanese spaces and I'd rather not have to pull that stuff off again to retorque the heads.

Yep. What's the point? Should I get a new one from Subaru?

That's interesting. The axle on this side has started to make some noise when turning. I didn't think it should be due for replacement yet; the opposite side is older.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5024&stc=1&d=1183392124 Is this even safe to drive? Might be a parts car available soon. '87 GL 3-door Steve

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4477&stc=1&d=1165871083 It's got 2 wires and 2 vacuum hoses, but one is broken off. Do I have to replace it or can I just block it off? '87 carbureted 3-door w/ EA82 engine Runs terrible bow that the weather got colder.

I agree on the easy outs. They sound good in princible, but often don't work either--and if you break it off, you can not drill it out!!!!! I hate to sound as if I'm shilling for Craftsman, but I've also had success with their "screw-out" tool. Center punch the bolt and start with a small drill bit. You only need to go in about 1/4". Drill the hole progressively larger until it is about 2/3 to 3/4 the diameter of the bolt. Then use the screw-out. I've also had success with this method and if it doesn't work, you've got a pilot hole to drill deeper and use the "easy out" as a last resort. Use as large an easy out as you can. All the while using liquid wrench, of course, but I'm sure you have been. Good Luck, Steve

Sears makes a "Bolt Out" nut & bolt remover. It's like a cup that fits over the bolt and as you turn it digs in tighter. About $20 for a set. Has bailed me out a few times.

As you look down from above the disty, I believe it is clockwise to advance. Don't try it without a timing light- it will tell you which way you are going. Eight degrees before for the carbed engine.

If the engine is properly tuned and you advance the timing, the rpm's will increase. Normally you would set the timing and then adjust the idle. Steve

Now you tell me Wish I would have found this board years ago. I did try epoxy on one attempt, but I didn't prime the surfaces as you suggested. Live and learn. Steve

You know those plastic u-shaped clips that are attached to the bottom of the door window? Several years ago mine came off, so I reglued it with silicon adhesive- the stuff they use for windows. They held in the cold weather, but came off again on a very hot day. I tried a different adhesive and the next time it came off, it broke the clip. A new one cost $50 at the Subi dealer. I have since reglued them a couple of times and they keep comming off. The last time they came off the backs were broken off of both of them, making them useless--until I got the bright idea to bolt them on. I decided to drill 2 small holes through the window to attach the clips. I purchased a glass bit at my local ACE Hardware, got about half way through the 1st hole and POW. My window exploded into a million bits, some going as far as 20 feet away. I had read a little about drilling glass online and talked to my helpful hardware man, but nobody told me you can't drill auto glass. I'll be calling the junk yards for a new window tomorrow. Steve '87 GL 3-door