N2FHL

Back off guys. It's a free country. If I can get you to buy my Bic pen for $10, good for me. If the price is too high, don't buy it. This guy is just trolling for a buyer with more dollars than sense---the American way.

I haven't got there yet, I can't get it to idle. It dies at under 12-1500 rpm. It was running a little rough before I tore it apart, but it is worse now.....although the smoking has stopped. So either I burned out what was left in the exhaust system or I'm running out of transmission fluid! It is running as though it has a vacuum leak although I have double and triple checked all the hoses and connections. Tomorrow night I'll drag the lights out to the street (where I do all my work) and grab my great big hemastats and start pinching off the lines until hopefully I isolate the right one. Or maybe I'll start with the propane or carb cleaner first..... Thanks to all for the feedback and wish me luck.

Interesting posts. The vacuum line to my transmission doesn't seem wet with fluid, but I'll block it off and see if the smoke stops. Also now, it won't idle, have to give it gas to keep it running. I'm guessing a vacuum leak on this one as I had all that stuff disconnected. I guess a failed vacuum solenoid/diaphragm/modulator (whatever) could cause a leak.

It failed emissions and about the same time developed a problem with white smoke (antifreeze). Intake manifold gaskets didn't solve the problem and the compression was a little low in one cylinder so off came the heads. I had the heads reconditioned and there weas no sign of cracks around the exhaust ports, but I got it back together today, fired it up and still slight white smoke. Also missing intermittently. Could I have missed a crack in the head? Could a cracked intake manifold mix coolant with the fuel? Any other place coolant can get in? Anybody know a cheap way to pressurize the cooling system and then what? Listen for a leak? Someone mentioned in a post that it took days for the catalytic converter to burn off the residue. Could this be the problem? '87 GL 3-door carbureted EA82

Failed emissions, white smoke, the intake manifold gaskets seemed ok, so I pulled the heads off my EA82 carbureted engine. I gather that my best bet is to stick with OEM gaskets. Is there a gasket kit that has all the gaskets I need or do I have to order them individually? How about the head gaskets? Do the OEM head gaskets have to be retorqued or can I use the FelPro ones? My American hands are already shreaded trying to work in those Japanese spaces and I'd rather not have to pull that stuff off again to retorque the heads.

Yep. What's the point? Should I get a new one from Subaru?

That's interesting. The axle on this side has started to make some noise when turning. I didn't think it should be due for replacement yet; the opposite side is older.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5024&stc=1&d=1183392124 Is this even safe to drive? Might be a parts car available soon. '87 GL 3-door Steve

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4477&stc=1&d=1165871083 It's got 2 wires and 2 vacuum hoses, but one is broken off. Do I have to replace it or can I just block it off? '87 carbureted 3-door w/ EA82 engine Runs terrible bow that the weather got colder.

I agree on the easy outs. They sound good in princible, but often don't work either--and if you break it off, you can not drill it out!!!!! I hate to sound as if I'm shilling for Craftsman, but I've also had success with their "screw-out" tool. Center punch the bolt and start with a small drill bit. You only need to go in about 1/4". Drill the hole progressively larger until it is about 2/3 to 3/4 the diameter of the bolt. Then use the screw-out. I've also had success with this method and if it doesn't work, you've got a pilot hole to drill deeper and use the "easy out" as a last resort. Use as large an easy out as you can. All the while using liquid wrench, of course, but I'm sure you have been. Good Luck, Steve

Sears makes a "Bolt Out" nut & bolt remover. It's like a cup that fits over the bolt and as you turn it digs in tighter. About $20 for a set. Has bailed me out a few times.

As you look down from above the disty, I believe it is clockwise to advance. Don't try it without a timing light- it will tell you which way you are going. Eight degrees before for the carbed engine.

If the engine is properly tuned and you advance the timing, the rpm's will increase. Normally you would set the timing and then adjust the idle. Steve

Now you tell me Wish I would have found this board years ago. I did try epoxy on one attempt, but I didn't prime the surfaces as you suggested. Live and learn. Steve

You know those plastic u-shaped clips that are attached to the bottom of the door window? Several years ago mine came off, so I reglued it with silicon adhesive- the stuff they use for windows. They held in the cold weather, but came off again on a very hot day. I tried a different adhesive and the next time it came off, it broke the clip. A new one cost $50 at the Subi dealer. I have since reglued them a couple of times and they keep comming off. The last time they came off the backs were broken off of both of them, making them useless--until I got the bright idea to bolt them on. I decided to drill 2 small holes through the window to attach the clips. I purchased a glass bit at my local ACE Hardware, got about half way through the 1st hole and POW. My window exploded into a million bits, some going as far as 20 feet away. I had read a little about drilling glass online and talked to my helpful hardware man, but nobody told me you can't drill auto glass. I'll be calling the junk yards for a new window tomorrow. Steve '87 GL 3-door

What's the difference between a thread chaser and a tap?

Bingo. I ASSUMED that the rotor should be pointing to #1 with the cam sprocket mark up. As you pointed out, the ignition timing and the belt installation are really separate procedures (using different flywheel marks). You are also correct that I don't need to remove the distributor. I thought it would make the job easier, but it came out easy enough with the dizzy attached. The worst part was getting the cam cover off. There is NO room for fingers, wrenches, etc. I think next time I'll just get the self-installing parts. Thanks for the quick response. I get it now. Steve

All I'm trying to do is reseal the cam carriers and covers- they are leaking. I've got the timing belts off and removed everything on the right (easy) side. I'm now working on the drivers side and getting ready to pull the distributor. I notice that with the mark on the cam sprocket straight up, the rotor is pointing between the 2nd and 4th cylinder wires. I would expect it to be pointing to the #1 cylinder wire. What gives? I believe the dizzy is driven directly by the cam on this side and I haven't touched anything yet. What am I missing? This car was running fine (just passed emissions) before I started this project. Most of the posts that I looked up on installing the dizzy assume that the timing belts are allready on. It seems to me that the dizzy could be installed (before the timing belts) simply by turning the sprocket so that the mark is straight up and making sure that the dizzy rotor is pointing to the #1 wire. Given the fact that this engine was running ok and the arrangement is not what I expected, I must be missing something or just don't understand what I am doing. Any help woud be appreciated. Tnx. Steve 87' GL 3 door w/ EA82 and carb.

For an EA82 engine, the O-ring that goes in the oil passage between the cam carrier and the head. My NAPA dealer says it's a "special" gasket and only the dealer has it. It's hard to have a job and stop into the dealer with their limited hours. Does anyone else carry this part? Part Number? Thanks, Steve

Tnx for clearing up the 3door vs hatchback mystery (at least in my mind). No wonder I get the wrong parts half the time.

I hope this doesn't get too long for this board. You all might get a few good laughs at my bumbling efforts. Nine years ago we inherited a 1987 GL hatchback with over 100K miles. I figured it wouldn't have much longer to live and have given it minimum maintenance- oil changes, alternator, drive axles, radiator, etc. I figured it wouldn't be too long before we faced major engine or transmission problems and we would just get rid of it. This was my first big mistake. Now with 202K miles it finally died about 50 miles north of here at my sister-in-law's house. I threw a few tools in the car and ran up to check it out. It turned over and had a spark, but almost no fuel in the carb. The fuel pump was original and I don't think I ever replaced the filter so I diagnosed this as the problem. This was my second big mistake. I returned with the new parts and installed them laying on the blacktop driveway on a sunny 92 degree day. I turned the key and nothing- same problem. I then focused on the carburetor. There was no way I could get a wrench on the idle stop solenoid, but it looked to be leaking around the base and float bowl. I decided it was time for a rebuilt carb and this was my third big mistake. So I drove up again with my tape and sketchpad to label and remove all 22 hoses from the air cleaner and carb. I took it home to try to identify it and price a new one. Looks like it was going to cost me any where from $165 to $285 for a rebuilt one so I spent $28 for the kit and spent the afternoon on the picnic table cleaning and rebuilding it. The rebuild went smoothly except that all the nuts and screws were outrageously tight. I drove the carb back up, reinstalled it, turned the key, and still nothing. I forgot to mention that all during this fiasco my brother-in-law (not the expert I am) kept suggesting that maybe it was the timing belt. Just to pacify him, I turned it over so he could feel the air moving out of the exhaust pipe and even did a compression test on cylinder #1 to show how it couldn't be the timing belt. This was my fourth big mistake. So I drove home again, discouraged, and without a clue what the problem could be. I started searching the net for ideas and stumbled onto this board. As you all have guessed by now, it was the other timing belt. Who knew it had two? I replaced the belts and with the carb rebuild my wife says she doesn’t remember it running so smoothly. BTW, we drove home in the rain and ever since, the wipers won’t turn off with the ignition on. I pulled the fuse for now! Steve

Mine is an EA82 with no ECU. The only wiring diagram I have (from Chilton's) shows that the voltage is supplied when the ignition is on. Which is why I expected battery voltage and not 5+ volts. I guess I'm gonna have to find a bad ground or maybe a half-bad fusable link . The carb connector has 3 wires- ADS, choke and vent valve solenoid. This connector has the 5 volts when I checked it with the ignition on. Does anyone know the voltage that these are supposed to run on? Maybe I could wire these temporarily to get the beast home. It's stranded at a friends house about an hour away. Since I had the carb out, I've been rebuilding it. The worst part- the screws are very tight. I've got it all apart and cleaned and the sun has set on my picnic table. Maybe the wife will let me bring it in on the dining room table. Thanks for the feedback.

Well, I thought that would be the problem and prepared to spend the day looking for a bad connection. But looking through my Haynes manual, it shows how to check the voltage to the automatic choke and the value on the meter shown is 6 volts. Now I'm discouraged. The voltage I'm getting to the connector may be ok after all. I expected to see battery voltage and I can't see any device on my wiring diagram which would reduce the voltage. What is the proper voltage to the plug for the carb? I'm new to this group and any help would be appreciated. Tnx, Steve

Now it won't start--no gas in the carb. I had gas pressure right up to the carb so I figured the pump, filter, etc were ok. The carb is leaking a bit and the engine has been complaining so I figured it was time for a rebuild (no suprise after 202K miles). I disconnected the 22 hoses to the carb and air cleaner and pulled it off. As an after thought, I checked the voltage at the three wire connector that goes to the carb. It measured only a little more than 5 volts. I assume I should be getting 12 volts. I suspect this might be the source of my problem as the idle shut-off solenoid might not be opening. I'm not overjoyed at wrestling with that rat's nest of wires under the dash and neither Chilton nor Haynes has a wiring diagram that exactly matches my car. A suggestion from someone who has conquered a similar problem would be appreciated. Is there a specific relay or connection that tends to corrode that I should look for first? Thanks for any help. Steve '87 Hatchback w/ EA82 & Hitachi carb