aa8jzdial

Very good old Legacy driving friend got his first Impreza recently. He always helps with my problems. My chance to help him. The title to this post says it all. We do not have schematics for Impreza. Is there any commonality in the wiring for these 3 items or just likely 3 seperate issues. Fuse, relay, tie points? Any ideas? tnx rick w mi

From what I can tell, the tranny shifts just fine. What pressure should the xmsn run at? I s'pose the guys with the gauges should know. If all she has to deal with is the lag to engage I see no big issues. tnx rick w. mi.

My daughters 90 Legacy would not idle correctly. Pulled the iac off my spare car and gave it to her. Now her's is doing fine. The one from her car needs attention. That bad one is now mine. Any suggestions on solvent soaking? Seafoam? Cheap gin? How do I bench check this thing? Even used they are not cheap. Ideas?? tnx rick w. mi.

Fluid was little low. Topped up and no difference. Will have her change fluid. Should be cheap shot. Again, is there any word on this TRANS X stuff. tnx Rick w mi

WAWalker You too have mail. I think the video will show wear to the point of needing to return this motor and search for another. This website is a great service. Thanks to all. rick

Thank you WAWalker for a very informative post. I have access to a darned good 72 year old cigar smoking machinist who loves challenges. This may be just the ticket. Having said that though I still have some concern. With your elegant fix, the woodruff key will not be called on to take near the torque as the original design. This is good thing as my enlarged keyway has a noticable amont of slop. The pinching of the crank pulley between the bolt and the crank should carry a large amount of the torque via the dowel pins and minimize the slop that the timing belt pulley would otherwise experience. Do you agree? Do you see a call for any Locktight anywhere? One more thing. Could I send you a short 2-3 second movie clip showing the slop in the keyway? I hate to go through all the work and find it is too worn to bother with. If so, drop a note to aa8jzdial@yahoo.com and I will blast off a little mpg file. Assuming the kid will help me figure out how to do it. Either way, thanks agn. rick w mi

My daughter has 91 legacy 2wd auto. When going from park to drive there is a noticable pause before the xmsn 'catches'. Wife has a 95 legacy auto and she noticed this on the older car a couple a days ago when she took it for a short drive. The lag is an extra 2 seconds maybe. It doesn't seem to slip when running down the road. Is it soon to fail? Have heard mention of a product called Trans X. Any word on this stuff? Or should we start shopping for a used xmsn? rick w mi

Found a ej22 with less then 100k miles for good price. Haven't paid anything yet. Took the front output gear off (that drives the timing belt) and noticed some slight mushrooming on the keyway groove. I don't have enough experience to make a call on this but have read on this site about that gear spinging on the crankshaft. I am nervous. Is any acceptable? If not, I expect the only option is new crank and that will not happen. Any thoughts? tnx rick w mi

Yesterday worked on this same problem. 1990 2wd 5 speed manual. Jacked up both wheels and carefully ran car in 3 gear. Standing on the side of car (little safer) could see wobble in the suspect axle. Found improperly installed roll pin in the inner joint of right axle. Mechanic did not line up holes right. While we were at it, changed the axle. Problem gone. Nice fix. Good luck. rick w mi

Now I see a guy asked just about the same question a few post below this one. S'pose I should read a bit before I ask questions. By the way, the motor to go in has supposedly about 100k miles and is from a 1993. Motor is from an automatic, going into 5 speed manual 2 wd with about 150k miles. Intake and electronics from old motor will be swapped to replacement unit. Hope I didn't forget too much this time. tnx rick

Just found a 2.2 to go in my old 90 legacy. Motor is sitting on the floor. I am thinking cam seals, main seal or seals (front and rear?) timing belt and how about the plate on the rear of the motor? Is this a gasket or just a sealant in a tube? If so, what is recommended type? Water pump? Put Keensert or such in exhaust stud holes? Anything else? tnx rick w mi

The misfiring is not continuous at all. Just one real quick misfire. Not sure if it is vacuum related. Seems the sputtering might last for a few seconds or so as someone else mentioned. Are the hvac controls best removed by popping off the control panel? Haven't been there on this vehicle yet. As typing this it occured to me that if a/c related, removing the a/c clutch might help isolate the trouble. Phooey. The clutch has been disconnected since who knows when. Certainly tends to knock out the counter emf issue. This is not a burning issue as the cars is fine other then this. As it is approaching 10 degs outside I may procrastinate just a bit. Still would be nice to collect a few more thoughts though for if and when the weather warms up. again, tnx all rick w mi

Thanks for the insight gentlemen. I feel more comfortable with electrical/electronic issues. My batting average with vacuum problems is poor at best. Either way it is going to take a bunch of digging in the shop manuals and laying under the blasted dash. Thanks again guys. rick w mi

Very odd symptom. 1990 Legacy, 150k miles, manual 2 wd. When driving switching climate control from a/c to heat causes a definate misfire. Also occasionally see the cel toggle on and off when doing this. What sort of spike could be introduced? Something involving the deenergization of the a/c clutch solenoid maybe? Is there a counter emf diode that may have failed? Also, son say's he thought it may also occur when going from "off" to "heat" although I haven't seen it yet. Not a huge issue if the pulse doesn't work it's way back to the ecu. Anyone else ever see this odd situation? tnx rick w. mi.

Best friend has rusty 1990 ish Loyale 4wd manual. He loves it. Why wouldn't he? We have located a clean 1989 2wd manual body. How hard to put 4wd from above car in 2wd drive place? He also has manual 4wd 5 speed xmsn with high/low range. Would this be a better, just as feasable option? tnx rick w. mi.

David Had the same surging problem on daughter's 90 2.2. Swapped out the idle air control unit and all is well. Wish I had thought of the seafoam treatment though. rick w. mi.

Tnx for all the inputs folks. I will call guy up north and have him measure his radiator vs mine. Got a bad feeling going to have to pull mine out and take to shop. That means being with out ride for day or 2. Oh well. rick w mi

The title says it. My old trusty XT radiator is getting weepy. Local guy has lots of GL parts. Am I lucky enough that the GL rad will fit?? tnx rick w. mi.

Mike My daughters 1990 had what sounds like the same troubles. Ran fine if you satyed on the throttle til temp came up. The 'all knowing' fellows here pointed to among other things the idle air control valve. Took care of it just fine. I put a used one on from another 1990. Not sure but if you find one from a year or two newer you may find it is not quite the same. Sort of fuzzy on this but thought worth mentioning. gl rick w. mi.

Just to chime in. I have replaced a few axles and never have popped off the ball joint. Scratch the bolt that is used for castor or camber adjustment (not sure what it is called) with a grinder so you can zero it back in. Take the easy way out. Not a piece of cake but certainly not a major. If I recall, care needs to be exercised when sliding the new axle into output shaft. One way the pin looks like it will go in. Rotate about but not quite 180 degrees and it will go in. rick w. mi.

Thanks all of you for the info. The prize goes to the guys with the idle air control suggestion. Robbed one off a 1990 awaiting more attention. Works like a trained pig. A couple remaining questions. Why no cel? Because the motor is cold and runs in open loop? Diagnostic connectors all disconnected = U check mode. Just blacks hooked up = read memory. Just green = D check mode. Is this right? What to heck is D check?? tnx rick w. mi

finally getting back to the poor idle issue. I noticed just now I didn't mention this is a 1990 legacy. Changed plugs and wires. Seemed to help the missing at low engine speed. Still very funky at cold start. Good friend looked it over and has a decent track record for fixing such things but he is at a loss and suggested I try another post here. The CEL light is indeed functioning, as it lights when ignition switch first turned on. But, again the light is not on during run. Any suggestions on what to check? How about a fuel pressure/pump issue? Would it be worth doing the read memory check? The car is presently 20 miles from here and maybe able to get to it this weekend. Is the Read memory mode the best source of info? I am not sure of how to use the D-check mode. tnx rick w mi

One of the 6 subarus I am charged with maintaining recently became hard to start. No cel. I think the bulb is ok. 5 speed manual. Cold start, idle jumps up to about 2500 rpm, holds for a second, drops almost to stall, back up to 2500 for a second, drops to near stall and back up and then down for the count. Suspected fuel filter but after a few go arounds of this I held the idle near 2000 or so for 45 seconds and then seemed to idle fine. Test drive seemed ok at acceleration, but slower speeds seemed to lurch about. Tomorrow after it has cooled will change plugs but am dubious. It is my oldest daughters 60 mile per day commuter so I can't take my normal plodding pace. Thoughts?? tnx rick w. mi.

tnx guys for the input. Not sure now if it is worth the bother considering I would need to machine up some fittings and valves. I guess if it was real valid it would be common practice. rick w mi.

Being a back yard, shade tree wrencher, way in back yard and under big tree, was wondering about pressure testing block by closing off thermostat outlet, pressurizing upper radiator hose and watching bleed down before reinstalling motor in car. I have had an instance where put new heads and gaskets on my 1990 ej22 and found water spitting out exhuast and bubbling in radiator. Can this be used as a quick test to verify integrity of the repair?? Be nice to find out before going through all the labor of putting motor back in. Pressurize to about 10-15 psi?? Should hold pressure indefinately, right? Bad idea? tnx rick w. mi