dave valiant

I work at Sears Automotive part time. I was talking to one of the old timers there about pugs and lug nuts. I brought one of them in so he could look at it and he commented that I should try bulge end lug nuts. Has anyone out there tried using this style of lug nut on a Pug, and does it work. I can get this style lug nut for $1.20 a piece. I like that price.

So do you have to live in Wyoming or Colorado to attend. I need to give CCR inc a core motor and a get together would be the perfect excuse to do it.

I loved my EA81-T. Unfortunately the Brat succumbed to rust and I no longer have it. It was the most reliable Sub I have ever owned.

I have been driving my 90 Toyota pickup this summer since the air in it works and my GL's doesn't. I started it up the other day just because I don't want to let it sit without running for long periods of time. When I did I bumped the front dome light switch and it came on. That isn't so unusual except it has never worked in the past. Ever. When I first got the car half of the dash lights didn't work and then one day they all did and still do. I am kind of scared that this mysterious all of the sudden things work thing isn't a gift from God for my good behavior. I am a little scared that it could mean something bad is going on in the electrical system. anyone ever experience anything like this with an EA82 car?

that sounds like reason enough to me to do it.

I think all the high impact colors are great. You need to do what you want to do.

I had this problem once in my ea81. I had put the wires on thinking that cyl. # 1 was on the drivers side.

Taking and engine and transmission out of a completely trashed 84 wagon with a 624 John Deere front end loader and an acetyline torch. We didn't disconect the ac line when picking the engine up out of the car. Those hoses are tough. We had the car a good 4 feet off the ground with the forks of the loader all the way up and the engine attached to the car by one single ac line.

the Brat roof top and the hatch top height aren't the same so be very careful with your measurements, according to Tim. He had a professional body man do his and it took two days.

When I do a flush I remove the radiator cap and one of the heater hoses. Then I put the garen hose on the heater hose so it goes through the heater core and it all runs out the radiator. I will do that until it runs clear then start the engine and run it for a few seconds, this will push out some water so all you have to do is add a gallon of anti freeze to the system. Well add the antifreeze after you reconnect the heater hose and then burp the cooling system.

I would replace both belts while you have the covers off. It is just cheap insurance.

It is alot easier to pull the motor than it is to pull the trans back. I know there was no mention of this but I learned that one the hard way.

I have an 87 wagon that with the original purchase price included I have around 3 grand into. I will probably spend more when I can afford it. That isn't including the Pugs and tires. But I have to say that 3 thousand for a rust free car with a new engine and clutch, that will probably last me at least another 5 years is well worth it.

Well I said it first, I am a simpleton. I had a broken wire. that was the entire reason the wagon wouldn't stay running. It is running pretty good now, I am going to replace the O2 sensor and get my equal length catless header made. Then the pugs will go on. Yeah!

Well I am far from knowledgable enough to figure out what the heck I screwed up, so I am going to talk to a mechanic who has owned a couple of ea82 Subes and see what he thinks.

It is a manual transmission, and I got it to start and run just fine at first. I am going to consult a professional because I am at a complete loss. Thanks for all the replies though.

Perhaps I am a complete simpleton, but this is not working for me. What am I missing.

I got the same thing with the white ones as the green. I am going back to the usrm and try and see if I can figure this out.

I have an 87 wagon that I just put a CCR engine in. It doesn't want to start. I plugged the green connectors together and checked the LED. The light is flashing six quick flashes. what does this translate to. Please help. I am at my wits end.

I am gonna go through and nut and bolt it. Recheck all connections. I did accidentilly hookup the fuel and return lines backwards. I hope that didn't cause damage to the injector.

The dis is lined up correctly, it is full of fresh oil,it is a CCRinc motor so the timing belts come lined up,throttle cable is moving freely, has spark to all of the cylinders. The intake and spfi is the same one that was on the old motor. I never thought about the assembly lube smoking, it smells about right for that. Now it wont start at all.

I just finished hooking everything up on the new engine, it will start and idle high, but as soon as I take my foot off of the clutch it dies. It is also smoking like mad. It doesn't smell like coolant but there is alot of it.It is an spfi ea82 in an 87 wagon. Does anyone have any ideas of what I could have done wrong here, please help. I really need this car running. Dave

I always just use a good sized pair of channel locks. Having the special tool would be nice though.

electrical tape should do the trick

When I pulled the engine out of my wagon I just moved all the ac suff out of the way. The only thing you should need to do is unbolt the compressor.