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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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the main issue that frightens me is, how severely and how often did it overheat? sure, you can put new gaskets on it - but then, a rod bearing could fail in 6 weeks. If it was YOUR car, you'd know how much it had overheated and could make a decision with good knowledge - but that isn't the case here. I'd only consider buying it with the calculation of installing a used engine.
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onn the slow to fire-up; try either one of these; spray some starter fluid in the intake and start - if it starts more quickly, could be a fueling issue. ALSO, before starting, cycle the key from OFF to ON (not START) several times in succession; ON, wait for a 4 or 5 count, OFF, ON, wait for a 4-5 count, OFF, ON - wait, OFF, then START. Each time you go to ON, the fuel pump should pressure-up the rails for a coupla seconds so, if the car fires more quickly, it may mean there is a leak in the fuel system and the pressure is dropping when the car sits. if neither of those tricks help, it likely eliminates fuel supply problems.
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some older soobs had problems with cracked clutch forks do you only hear the clunking or do you feel any bucking/jerking? does it happen at slow speed so someone could pace the car and determine which side is causing the noise? clunking could be inner joint on an axle. Should you determine an axle IS bad - BY FAR, best approach is get a used soob axle (with the green-painted inner joint) from car-part or LKQ, regrease and reboot the inner joint.
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I know money is tight but, I have never kicked myself for mistakenly putting a new part on an OLD car while troubleshooting. Sure, ideally I'd train myself to learn how to scope the 02 and make sure the waveform is really slow or w'ever - but the extra time/tools/knowlede sometimes makes it faster/easier to put in a $60 part. The absolute WORSE thing that happens if I 'guess' wrong is, I got a new part instead of a 10-15 year old part, wasted a little time, some money - and eliminated one of the items on the list of possible problems! not ideal but, you see how that works. Again, live data from a smart phone, and ELM327 BT adapter running an app like Torque can sometimes be helpful troubleshooting.
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^^^ what they said, tires should be IDENTICAL. run FWD fuse (see your owners manual about use of emergency spare tire) less desirable options; run new tire pair on opposite corners (only IF your rear diff is not limited slip), or, have new tires shaved down to match circumference of old tires (this may not work if the difference is as great as you say, plus, it wastes the utility of the new tires)
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all 4 tires the same brand/model/size? any bucking/jeking/grabbing in sharp turns maneuvering in parking lots? will the car do tight circles on dry pavement at or 'just' above idle rpm? try swapping tire pairs front to back, inspect suff like lug nuts and brakes when you do this off course. you try the FWD fuse too.