1 Lucky Texan

there's a thread at subaruoutback.org about FreeSSM. Those guys may know if there's a DIY work-around for recent gen rear brake work.

check this thread; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/382842-no-vacuum-airbox-port-h6-ez30d-3-0-a.html

^^^ +1 have had to tighten (philips screwdriver) clamps on both my cars for cool weather gas smell.

did the 'pop' seem to be inside the cabin or outside/underhood? did she smell anything odd? was the car moving/driving?

maybe inspect for cracked plastic or leaking hoses? when you say 'top-off', are you continuing to fill after the pump handle clicks off? that can lead to problems. Sure, rounding up to the nearest 10 cents or 'maybe' 25 cents is unlikely to be an issue, but the carbon canister can flood if you or another driver fills to overflowing every time - then particles of carbon can get into the evap system leading to issues too.

virgin switch!

didn't help I might try to get some very small shrink tubing so I can work it farther forward (maybe) and have the can in a less awkward position - still not confident that would work.

will his 08 do the 'native' code display routine? (agree on the canbus being likely reason old reader won't connect)

probably worth the effort to check timing. some cars can have 'dropped' valve guides but, I think it's usually an ex. valve.

probably got P0420, it has the words 'catalytic converter' as part of its definition, but the CC is rarely the problem. It can be thrown with something as simple as an exhaust leak. many people have been sold new converters and the code comes back.

there's MAF spray cleaner - smells different from other stuff I use around the car so, might be best to just pick-up a can. Don't poke around inside the MAF with a nozzle or anything, there's a delicate wire in there somewhere.

do some of the older systems have a rest or other type button to push? hte key cycle trick for our 03 only works if I go from OFF to ON 3 times quickly - no stopping at ACC.

if the hose from the IACV that goes to someplace under the intake tube is off or leaking, you will experience no/very poor idle. I have also read of people cleaning-out the IACV.

I'm gonna suggest this may point to bad wiring in the body-to-hatch boot. I suppose some corrosion in the sockets or a pinched wire, etc. are all possibilities.

you want Dealer-supplied, or, Mitsuboshi belt dealer or NTN tensioner rollers to have Japanese bearings many threads on this , - online dealer parts house, local dealer (ask them to match on-line prices) ebay, rockauto, amazon, etc. do a search for threads about this. (IF you decide to change waterpump, get dealer or Aisin and metal gasket)

make them discount it for the upcoming TB service, and ask for them to throw in a 90 or 180 day powertrain warranty. settle for the warranty, then have a mechanic check it out???? I dunno - "make a deal!"

picking-up a car that needs the TB done (around 105K OR 105 months) can be a good strategy because, you can use the cost of that to negotiate a little lower price PLUS, you get the knowledge that the TB job is done properly by you or your mechanic. Getting a car with - say 120K miles from an owner that says "yeah, timing belt was replaced" might SEEM like a good plan, but some folks just do a belt-slap when the toothed roller (and other idlers, and tensioner) are likely points of failure.

start by finding a soob-friendly independent mechanic near you. ask in a new thread. 1. they may have a customer that is trading up/selling a car 2. They can help with a pre-purchase inspection if you find a car you like (does your sister live farther south? Superior Soobie near Portland is a great shop) the older a car is, the less important it's brand/model reputation is, and the more important it's prior care and present condition are. FB25 engines have a timing chain, no belt service to mess with. I think that starts with 2013 (maybe 12?) for the Outback 4 cyl.

see how 3 lines go to the carbon canister? remove one at a time before refueling, then see which one lets the car be 'normal'. that system has multiple modes of failure. My MIL's 2010 Forester had to have the tank dropped for stuck vent valve. as mentioned by wtdash , connecting the green test wire will cycle all those valves, at least put a finger or hose up to you ear on each one to make sure they cycle, if they do, then likely a clog or bad valve is the problem.

separately - youi wouldn't know which action improved things if the engine runs better.

even though it could likely throw a coupla evap codes, try pulling various hoses off the carbon can. , refuel and drive. You may at least discover which system ,or, where in the system the problem is. If the canister has ever been flooded with fuel from top-offs, I'vread that carbon particles can travel to a valve and cause issues.

wel, if exhaust is severely blocked, a vacuum gauge will show you, check youtube and other on-line info on that. many folks have had bad/cracked knock sensors on older soobs that force the ECU to pull timing - kills power. if you own a smartphone, tou can use Torque Free app and an ELM327 BT or similar adapter and get data from the ECU. That might tell us about ignition timing and a:f ratio corrections. one idea, if you do a battery reset, pull neg term., press on the brake pedal, wait 10 minutes....w'ever , does the car run the same or better? if better, I'd suspect a sensor-related issue, if the same, might be more physical/mechanical. restting the ecu forces the use use of the 'factory rom map' and the car 'forgets and must re-learn adjustments from a:f and other sensors.

strut bearing mounts? or the upper spring 'seat'? there's usually an arrow or hole that points outwards (towards the fender) also, the washer at the top must have the bevel/cone side against the bearing.

any indication the trans pan is dented?

60 secs of heat is quite a bit. I 'accidentally' discovered what has been explained on the Forums once or twice by the 'gurus' - after warming the nut with the torch, THEN (carefully) spray with PB Blaster or 50/50 ATF-acetone mix. As it cools, it will draw the penetrant in. It was strut work that finally convinced me to buy an impact wrench. Wish I'd had it 35 years ago. I know it sounds crazy but, try some force in the TIGHTEN direction, maybe a little back-forth on it will bust the rust!