1 Lucky Texan

the way it's been behaving, I doubt that will be any worse. Just don't let stuff bounce/whip around. Wrap it with some tape or plastic and tape or ziptie it out of the way.

^^^ what they said, tires should be IDENTICAL. run FWD fuse (see your owners manual about use of emergency spare tire) less desirable options; run new tire pair on opposite corners (only IF your rear diff is not limited slip), or, have new tires shaved down to match circumference of old tires (this may not work if the difference is as great as you say, plus, it wastes the utility of the new tires)

check your owner's manual, might be called fuel evaporation leakage check system, or similar

the newer models do something like a tank/purge/evap pressure test or w'ever.

all 4 tires the same brand/model/size? any bucking/jeking/grabbing in sharp turns maneuvering in parking lots? will the car do tight circles on dry pavement at or 'just' above idle rpm? try swapping tire pairs front to back, inspect suff like lug nuts and brakes when you do this off course. you try the FWD fuse too.

there's a thread at subaruoutback.org about FreeSSM. Those guys may know if there's a DIY work-around for recent gen rear brake work.

check this thread; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/382842-no-vacuum-airbox-port-h6-ez30d-3-0-a.html

^^^ +1 have had to tighten (philips screwdriver) clamps on both my cars for cool weather gas smell.

did the 'pop' seem to be inside the cabin or outside/underhood? did she smell anything odd? was the car moving/driving?

maybe inspect for cracked plastic or leaking hoses? when you say 'top-off', are you continuing to fill after the pump handle clicks off? that can lead to problems. Sure, rounding up to the nearest 10 cents or 'maybe' 25 cents is unlikely to be an issue, but the carbon canister can flood if you or another driver fills to overflowing every time - then particles of carbon can get into the evap system leading to issues too.

virgin switch!

didn't help I might try to get some very small shrink tubing so I can work it farther forward (maybe) and have the can in a less awkward position - still not confident that would work.

will his 08 do the 'native' code display routine? (agree on the canbus being likely reason old reader won't connect)

probably worth the effort to check timing. some cars can have 'dropped' valve guides but, I think it's usually an ex. valve.

probably got P0420, it has the words 'catalytic converter' as part of its definition, but the CC is rarely the problem. It can be thrown with something as simple as an exhaust leak. many people have been sold new converters and the code comes back.

there's MAF spray cleaner - smells different from other stuff I use around the car so, might be best to just pick-up a can. Don't poke around inside the MAF with a nozzle or anything, there's a delicate wire in there somewhere.

do some of the older systems have a rest or other type button to push? hte key cycle trick for our 03 only works if I go from OFF to ON 3 times quickly - no stopping at ACC.

if the hose from the IACV that goes to someplace under the intake tube is off or leaking, you will experience no/very poor idle. I have also read of people cleaning-out the IACV.

I'm gonna suggest this may point to bad wiring in the body-to-hatch boot. I suppose some corrosion in the sockets or a pinched wire, etc. are all possibilities.

you want Dealer-supplied, or, Mitsuboshi belt dealer or NTN tensioner rollers to have Japanese bearings many threads on this , - online dealer parts house, local dealer (ask them to match on-line prices) ebay, rockauto, amazon, etc. do a search for threads about this. (IF you decide to change waterpump, get dealer or Aisin and metal gasket)

make them discount it for the upcoming TB service, and ask for them to throw in a 90 or 180 day powertrain warranty. settle for the warranty, then have a mechanic check it out???? I dunno - "make a deal!"

picking-up a car that needs the TB done (around 105K OR 105 months) can be a good strategy because, you can use the cost of that to negotiate a little lower price PLUS, you get the knowledge that the TB job is done properly by you or your mechanic. Getting a car with - say 120K miles from an owner that says "yeah, timing belt was replaced" might SEEM like a good plan, but some folks just do a belt-slap when the toothed roller (and other idlers, and tensioner) are likely points of failure.

start by finding a soob-friendly independent mechanic near you. ask in a new thread. 1. they may have a customer that is trading up/selling a car 2. They can help with a pre-purchase inspection if you find a car you like (does your sister live farther south? Superior Soobie near Portland is a great shop) the older a car is, the less important it's brand/model reputation is, and the more important it's prior care and present condition are. FB25 engines have a timing chain, no belt service to mess with. I think that starts with 2013 (maybe 12?) for the Outback 4 cyl.

see how 3 lines go to the carbon canister? remove one at a time before refueling, then see which one lets the car be 'normal'. that system has multiple modes of failure. My MIL's 2010 Forester had to have the tank dropped for stuck vent valve. as mentioned by wtdash , connecting the green test wire will cycle all those valves, at least put a finger or hose up to you ear on each one to make sure they cycle, if they do, then likely a clog or bad valve is the problem.

separately - youi wouldn't know which action improved things if the engine runs better.