1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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sure those were working before? check the bulbs with an ohmmeter. -
I guess it comes down to services available on Kauai or within reasonable shipping distance? you might call the NAPA place on Oahu and see if there's anything they can do for you or some shop they could recommend?
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IF there were an old-school driveshaft shop, or, an automotive machine shop on Oahu or elsewhere, maybe you could get yours to them? some drive shaft shops can un-stake joints and re-work the shaft.
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usually, trans get under-filled when folks don't idle the car to check, so, I thought maybe it got diff fluid put in or w'ever by a SpiffyLube that wasn't familiar with soobs. maybe try some Trans-X to free-up gummy valves?
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fluid LOOK OK? maybe someone put diff oil in there? any codes stored? scan ecu for codes. bad knock sensor will kill performance and sometimes not set a code. check timing, may have slipped a notch. (when eas the timing system serviced last?)
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I think the suggestion was related to finding a soob-centric independent mechanic. based on other postings, pretty sure ThosL has exhausted that search, but, if someone knows of a shop near him please post it up!
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not cool enough this morning to 'test' the lithium grease trick in the starter. I've seen diagrams of the internals and I'm not convinced the spray gets far enough forward.
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I got an after market 'universal' one for my WRX. It came from a parallel universe since I had expand the spring wire and use pliers to put a 'recurve' on the ends to prevent them digging into the cap's plastic. It does hold the cap but it's still not a great solution.
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so many things can cause a Po420, it often isn't the cat (though cats can of course be bad, just don't replace it without sure knowledge that is the bad part) in addition to confirming a secure connection as mentioned above, general ground connections should checked and refreshed. the CPS is located at the center of the front of the engine above the crank pulley. One bolt holds it in. They can fail when warm on older cars, I read once of a flaky one working after cleaning debris off of it. Replacements are not terribly expensive.
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czny - you might investigate axles from HERI, they have more extension.
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if you can't feel a problem, seems unlikely any damage is being done but ?????
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late doing oil changes on both my cars but today I got the WRX on ramps. changed oil/filter, new wiper blades all round, tightened the clamps ts the fuel line 'buffers' or w'ever they are - last year I smelled fuel in cold weather, looked around/inspected stuff. one weird thing I tried...when I changed strut mounts and struts, I noticed a drain hole (???) on the underside of the starter. It has been making dragging noises for a long time now when temps are under 50* or so. I managed to spray some lithium grease up in there with a tube on the spray can. Dunno yet if it will get even remotely close to the pinion gear's shaft - figured it couldn't really hurt anything. fingers crossed. need to change oil on the OBW
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there's a protective fuse built on the back of the power port itself. fuses can look good but, best to actually test them with an ohmmeter.
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there's an argument for keeping intake air cool and dense for xtra power. Questionable whether the difference could be felt in a daily driver. I read once of a crack in a throttle body and coolant leaked out there. Extremely rare but maybe he was bypassing the TB due to a leak?
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gd - like these? https://www.amazon.com/MonkeyJack-Pairs-Couplers-Connectors-Adapter/dp/B07486YR68/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510233251&sr=8-3&keywords=r12+to+r134+valve+adapters
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well, there may be 2 reasons to send coolant thru there; to prevent icing or it's an emissions thing.
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not sure where to put this post. And I can make no guarantees about safety/quality of using these links. just fyi https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
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from what I've read, the fear is moving the MC seals over some debris or corrosion located where there is usually no travel - and tearing the seals. probably more of a concern on old and/or neglected vehicles.
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yeah, I had to go through a few fuel connections last winter to stop a smell from under the hood on our 03. Never really saw any fuel and will be monitoring the car again this winter but, 'something' I tighened helped last winter. Just used a straight and an 'offset' philips screwdriver and 10-15 minutes.
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could it smell like rank grease? maybe inner cv boot is split???
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I've seen at least 2 bleed orders listed, personally, I do farthest to closest. I use a one-man helper gadget - a hose with a valve in it. Document clip to hold to rim of clear plastic container. I set it on top of a small box so the tubing isn't so long. I put a chunk of wood under the pedal so I don't go to the floor - some folks warn against that. DO NOT FORGET to remove the wood chunk before flight!
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filler, behind the plastic cover. they rust-out youtube.com/watch?v=Gra1QgMVkBc]
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indeed something still seems wrong if I understand your temp gauge description. on both my cars, if the gauge were the left side of an analog clock, the hour hand indicates about 8:30 as shown here; never seen my WRX go above 8:30, I HAVE seen the Outback get to ~10 in the desert; uphill grade, 3 people and luggage. 116*F outside. no, I don't want to got to '11' !
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ABS can be the first system that will pop a warning light if there's a charging/battery problem. Check that and refresh every ground connection you can find.
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actually, being on low traction surfaces with an odd-sized tire is easy on the AWD system as binding forces won't build up as much. but driving down a straight dry freeway with an odd-size tire - that is murder on AWD. but again, it's temporary.
