1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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check fuel filler for pinholes? -
in 'the old days' pedal pad wear was about the only other indicator. You want to see wear reflective of the mileage. NEW pedals , OR, extremely worn pedals, would be a red flag that odo cheating has been done. here in the US, we have labs like Blackstone and Polaris that do fluid analysis might be able to tell you if there are excessive metals or fuel or coolant or silicon in the oil. other than that, it's a gamble.
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make certain all 4 tires are identical - test the car on dry pavement in tight circle. It should be able to udle thru or maybe just need 1,000 rpm to get around a tight circle with NO grabbing/bucking feeling.
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some folks have been able to determine which 'chunk' of the evap system may be involved by pulling various hoses off the carbon canister or fuel neck while refueleing. seems tricky to do unless the gas station is 'friendly' and not too busy.
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pull oval plugs and adjust both 'star' wheels UP (both sides. what I do is put car is chock wheels, put car in N, pull p-brake handle to first notch, get rear up on jackstands. Adjust star wheel until I juuuust can't one-arm turn the wheel anymore. Do the other side the same way. that seems to lock the wheels pretty good with half-dozen clicks or so. if it doesn't work well-enough, you can try again....try the adjustment under the console....or maybe somethings wrong?
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maybe I'm wrong but I thought they were the largest volume soob dealer in the US? (I have not ordered from them, but other on-line and ebay dealers have been fine - it would be disappointing though for some DIYers if the wrong part arrived, it's why I sometimes suggest folks try to get a local dealer to match on-line prices. Easier to go just drive back over and exchange a part. A dust boot may not be time sensitive or easily confused with an incorrect partnumber so, probably be OK)
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Heuberger is on ebay - good to know!
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someone posted this one worked on their 2002 Forester; https://www.amazon.com/45535-22080-Rubber-Shield-1990-2000-Lexus/dp/B00K85CM94/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1509568117&sr=8-16&keywords=tie+rod+dust+boot I saw this there; https://www.amazon.com/45535-22080-Rubber-Shield-1990-2000-Lexus/dp/B00K85CM94/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1509568117&sr=8-16&keywords=tie+rod+dust+boot try using the above supplied partnumber at ebay, amazon, web search/shopping and see what comes up ?
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search tie rod dust boot on amazon I THOUGHT I saw some for about $9 but.....?
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I'm not sure on the final drive ratios, but many people have caused synchro clashing problems by switching TO synthetic lube. The OEM fluid or name brand non-synthetic GL-5 plays best. Some folks say the walmart/supertech synthetic BLEND stuff works too - it's cheap to try. Evidently, the syncrho speed is too fast with the synthetics. but, if you've already been down that road, other than just asking car-part.com for a compatible trans, you'd need to research the various final drive ratios. hope someone else responds.
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someone should put together a kickstarter to get a pallet-full of DR trans sent over from Oz, or Japan or S. America - wherever they can be found. people always want them.
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check into rallitek and king springs with a very high lift, you may need those HERI axles - lots of extension.
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well, peeling off the top and losing the hatch would SAVE some weight - but it also brings problems like increased body flex so - not great. honestly, I just don't think this vehicle could last long. maybe with a dual range trans, maybe a stronger clutch, a spare engine waiting at home, spare trans.... I dunno - these other guys have more experience with off-road rigs. Trax would be a surprise; /www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgW7DcyROaI
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did you misspell ' Suburban ' ? lol! I'd be tempted to rig 2 vehicles for redundancy, so , even if it slows the operation down, you have a back-up vehicle.
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worth doing a lot of searching/reading about. I have no direct experience but, I suspect the fluid part is normal. BUT, it's EXTREMELY easy to improperly re-seat the TC on assembly and crack the hydraulic pump.
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrtQwjjLQFA
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never thought of the plunger getting hung-up - that would explain why he doesn't hear a click. maybe try the 'whack-starter-with-a-piece-of-2x4' trick when it's cold and you feel certain it would fail. If it started immediately when trying that half a dozen times, I'd feel confident a solenoid rebuild would fix it. Even if it doesn't, then, HEY, rebuilt solenoid! (shouldn't be expensive)
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but, it comes with a list of minor repairs! (so THAT'S the secret to getting max $$ for a used car, well, I got that COVERED!)
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stevo - did you get rotors?
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no question the 2016 CAFE rules are very tight. surprised though to read the 0w 16 is also recommended in the JDM. Kinda wonder what is in the European owners' manual for those same engines. I have the perfect commute for an electric car but, I'm opposed to subsidizing them so, puts me in a dilemma. After any manufaturer selss 200,000 units, the subsidies start ramping down, it'll be interesting to see what happens to prices/sales when that happens.
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maybe a cable terminal was left loose if you recently bought a new battery? on a 95, battery cables could be badly corroded. Corrosion could be severe but under the insulation . not advising against the above suggestions, but inspecting battery cables/terminals is a good idea. don't neglect the ground connection from the battery either. refreshing all ground connections would be a good idea.
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mike, what is the special tool doing?
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I suppose rodent damage could be an issue for some people - but bad switch is not uncommon.
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^^^^ good post If it always blows the fuse now, you could raise the hatch and see if a fuse blows. If not, at least that would be conclusive for failing wire(s) in that boot. (but, if a fuse still blows, it doesn't exonerate that boot - wire could be 'tack-welded' to ground somehow)
