1 Lucky Texan
-
Posts
10142 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
105
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
-
no question the 2016 CAFE rules are very tight. surprised though to read the 0w 16 is also recommended in the JDM. Kinda wonder what is in the European owners' manual for those same engines. I have the perfect commute for an electric car but, I'm opposed to subsidizing them so, puts me in a dilemma. After any manufaturer selss 200,000 units, the subsidies start ramping down, it'll be interesting to see what happens to prices/sales when that happens. -
maybe a cable terminal was left loose if you recently bought a new battery? on a 95, battery cables could be badly corroded. Corrosion could be severe but under the insulation . not advising against the above suggestions, but inspecting battery cables/terminals is a good idea. don't neglect the ground connection from the battery either. refreshing all ground connections would be a good idea.
-
mike, what is the special tool doing?
-
I suppose rodent damage could be an issue for some people - but bad switch is not uncommon.
-
^^^^ good post If it always blows the fuse now, you could raise the hatch and see if a fuse blows. If not, at least that would be conclusive for failing wire(s) in that boot. (but, if a fuse still blows, it doesn't exonerate that boot - wire could be 'tack-welded' to ground somehow)
-
lab analysis might help (blackstone , polaris ?) - metals or too much fuel, etc. in the oil would point to a bearing failing or weak rings allowing too much blow-by I guess.
-
oil pressure's gonna be higher cold
-
I'm ashamed to be behind on my maintnance schedule - cars are running OK, Ilike to use Techron every 2-3 years (we don't put a lot of miles on) and did that recently - hoping to get to oil changes next month.
-
GD - bad engine temp sensor? - but I haven't read of pinging being a symptom.....?
-
hmmm... slipping belt OR, sometimes on older cars, the outer ring of the crank pulley separates from the inner part's rubber. See if it's wobbling any when idling.
-
what trans do you have?
-
can't reacll if you mentioned the trans, but wonder if an input shaft bearing or , a cracked flexplate might do this?
-
not sure about 95, 'most' 2.2s are not interference, still, you might confirm timing hasn't slipped a tooth or 2.
-
you have a PCV valve - on some years it's on the TB, other years it's on a head.
-
kinda wondering if you could have a weak timing belt tensioner. It can mimic rod knock and I guess piston slap, but it can smooth out at higher rpms where rod knock gets worse (this is all, 'usually' of course) but that isn't really 'marbles in a can', it's like a rhythmic knock. I guess you've ruled-out loose heat shields? valve clatter? maybe an oil pressure test is needed? if it does it at idles, or off idle with a helper, could you pinpoint L, R or front rear of engine? maybe it is carboning-up quickly as GD said - he's a pro mechanic. maybe a PCV valve change would help with oil blow-by/control?
-
so, if you were at the problem speed and let of the accel. or push in clutch pedal - the car is smooth? do you have the 2.2l engine? time since timing belt service?
-
^^^ that's a good suggestion. You might ask at Discount Tire too. there are regional Forums at NASIOC, you might read/ask there if no one responds here. and ask at www.subaruoutback.org too.
-
is the car new to you? miles on car? tires all the same brand/model/size? CEL on? the whole car is jerking/bucking? does it maneuver OK in parking lots? will it turn a tight circle smoothly on dry pavement at idle or 1K rpm ? any chance the car is OK when stone cold - then fails after warm-up?
-
doesn't sound like typical pinging to me. It should get worse with throttle demand as the ecu advances timing. if we could see the knock data/correction, that might be helpful. seems like you have plenty of experience though - just wonder what might sound like pinging at low load/rpm - is it a regular sound that tracks with rpm? is it a buzz/rattle or ????
-
seems like higher octane should reduce pinging. maybe you could record the sound and post a link to it?
-
get 2-3 successive sizes of left-twist drills? file the end of the bolt flat enough to center punch, drill CCW with the smallest drill first. use the next larger sizes if needed. sometimes the force and heat and vibration will move the bolt.
-
plugs correct heat range for the car? does the pinging get better if you run high octane fuel?
-
if there's really a problem, any chance a rebuilt alternator was installed? parts stores often supply the 2.5l version, or just a bad alternator.
-
did the car run better after the reset? I ask because, a reset forces the car to use the default 'map' and ignore a:f sensors for a coupla drive cycles. If the car showed NO improvement, that might point to a mechanical issue; blocked exhaust, dropped valves, skipped timing, or ????
-
look near your left knee - that's where they are on my soobs. low at the edge of the knee panel, recessed a little.
