1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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is there an opportunity to get better tires on the car? anyway, try 1st or second gear next time. -
in slipping situations, have you tried manually selecting 1st gear? The TCUs programming seems to have varying amounts of torque transfer as a 'base' depending on gear selection.
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9 year old car. Has the system ever been serviced? you could easily have lost refrigerant in 9 years.
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broken springs are uncommon. Worn struts ,though ,can stress springs so, I guess age and poor roads could take one out. sounds like it's driving OK for you now.
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FWIW, the aftermarket pump I got at the parts store has been working great in our 03 for years.
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weak TB tensioner can somewhat mimic rod knock.
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have you checked front diff oil level? the stick on the other side of the engine from the ATF dipstick. low and further back.
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sometimes they'll run but might still have low compression - maybe a comp test would still be a good idea?
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be very careful the torque converter doesn't slip forward - even 1/4" - very tricky to re-seat and, if you force it - the hydraulic pump cracks. many people find Fact. Serv. Man. (FSM) scans on-line, might have to add ' .pdf ' to the end of a google search string. Be careful about clicking anything else on an Asian or Russian page. maybe someone else will chime in with better info. I read a lot on the forums, but several folks here are pros or have many years of experience with deep wrenching on Subarus. I just maintain and do light/medium repairs on my 2 cars.
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after the axle broke, that stub was probably spinning fast enough to be sensed as slipping tire by the trans so, the clutch pack was desperately trying to shift torqu to the rear. mayeb the appearance of the fluid was from the clutch packs wearing? could be front DIFFERENTIAL oil has leaked out if the axle pulled the stub out while driving or somehow destroyed the output seal. or, unlucky failure of the air-oil separator plate or rear main seal?
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weak struts as said, worn suspension link bushings.
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tough spot - try priceline.com for cheap car rentals in Phoenix. (brief search seems like rent-a-wreck is closed) and get acquainted with valley metro and the bus services? Subarus definitely have their quirky problems and even bum years for major issues, but, ANY 20 year old car could break. maybe post in a new thread here asking for some guidance. An experienced member near you might take a look at the car for pizza and beers.
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on an older car I wouldn't hesitate to use a name-brand aftermarket bearing. The Timken I put in my daughter's Impala seemed very nice and lasted for the next several years until she replaced the car. Subaru wheel bearings fail frequently enough that I'm not convinced they are all that special. Still, yours seems to have lasted 25 years so - there's that.
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I dunno that folks reading the story on the internet are well-suited to recreating how the failure occurred. I think dealing with the issue now present will be the best use of your attention. get the engine running, shop for a trans.
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If you shift into N before stopping, would the car die? maybe the TC is not releasing. have there been any other codes retrieved? were OEM/NGK parts used when plugs and wires were installed? when idling poorly, you could try squirting some starter fluid in the intake. If it smooths-out, that could indicate a fuel problem. Live data may be required to pinpoint the problem. is the car new to you? did the car get it's timing belt system service 30K miles ago?
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my first concern would e that fluid drain/fill was confused. You need to triple check trans a dn engine oil levels and 'quality' of fluid. The trans is checked while idling.
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if your car has an open diff in the rear (pretty sure it does) you could get 2 matching tires and run them on opposite corners with 2 of your present matching tires. some folks have found worn tires on ebay to match their set of 3. not sure I understand your 'skid' complaint - if front tires are wearing the inner edges, maybe you need a toe adjustment or you have worn tie rods or ???
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'hub tamer' or similar kits - I think Harbor Freight has one, I'd also call around larger parts stores to see if they loan/rent some kinda kit.
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the axles are interchageable form left to right so, they should look 'almost' the same. Some aftermarkets look a little different at the inner cup - but not much different. You can look at pics at rockauto or amazon or do a google image search. sounds like you got some oddball axle. maybe it was mis-stocked or ????
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my 06 WRX is like that unless I feed-in an xtra 1/4" of go pedal. it was worse right after I first got it, a little better after finding the right seat position. When you are maneuvering to park, in a tight turn, do you feel bucking/jerking? could you do tight circles on dry pavement smoothly when warmed-up? How about if stone cold?
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triple check the hose from the IACV under the intake tubing.
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on some cars, the ABS light will come on if the charging system/battery are having a problem. you might check voltages or have that system tested.
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^^^ good points, in addition, some of those axles were slapped onto a car right before it was flipped to a new owner - then, if they suffer excessive vibration or a failure, the supplier will never learn about it. it's like 'economy' brake pads and 'economy' windshield wipers, etc. Stuff that folks buy to slap on a car they're getting rid of - not the one they keep for a daily driver.
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www.car-part.com , might get you a used OEM axle with the green cup inner joint, for $40 or so.
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an intermediate approach might be to take the knuckle and new parts to an auto machine shop and pay them to swap stuff into the knuckle. scribe/mark the 12 o'clock position on the camber botl and alignment will be back like it was.
