1 Lucky Texan

walmart may even have a different supplier by now. it may be fine for a lot of people who; A. are easy on their cars. or B. don't have one of those 7mm oil pump engines!

mikec - how's the car?

mickytrus - how's the car?

I THINK there is supposed to be a 'bittering' agent added the EG coolant since 2012. unless you leave an open drain pan of coolant out, or have a steady drip, it is unlikely an animal or child will encounter enough 'free' EG to present a problem. But, it is a concern on older vehicles that may contain older coolant, or for folks still using older jugs of coolant from 'new-old-stock' or of questionable source as there will not be a bittering agent in that fluid. It has a sweet smell/taste that is attractive to some animals and can cause irreversible kidney damage.(curiously, about the best treatment is to get the animal/child 'drunk' with ethanol to point of almost lethal alcohol poisoning)) All that said, the climate in Arkansas is moderate enough the PG-based fluid could be OK. It needs to be 'friendly' to aluminum so, I guess the additives are gonna be critical.

can you scan the ECU for trouble codes?

more details on car please. does it behave the same from cold start as after having warmed-up?

if you're paying for someone else's labor, makes sense to do seals and waterpump I think.

I read in another thread that the TCU is usually on the steering column behind the knee panel? Maybe get one from a junkyard or try car-part.com ? oh! make sure the green and the black 'diagnostic' connectors haven't been connected - though I'm guessing you'd have fans and relays cycling on-off. really, I am out of my element, just throwing out some guesses, hope an experienced guru responds here.

maybe try some fresh fluid - 3 drain/fill cycles get sabout 85% new fluid - on the last fill, try a bottle of Trans-X. Folks report it helping with delayed engagement but, your car's symptoms seem quite severe. Have you tried a batt. neg terminal disconnect to reset the TCU? stuck immobilizer makes me wonder if a reversed-wire jump or something fried the TCU? Or did meineke screw something up?

is the car new to you or has there been a wreck or work done recently? any chance the wrong fluid was drained or refilled? have you checked the trans fluid level? It's the only fluid you check while idling - otherwise it shows too full. any warning lights on or blinking?

as a very unlikely possibility - brakes, backing plate/shield and maybe lugnuts should be checked. (though, prev. inspection by mechanic may have included all that...?)

Subaru wheel bearings can be very hard to diagnose - I might not rule that out just yet. you might consider taking the car to https://www.facebook.com/superiorsoobie/ GeneralDisorder's shop - he participates on a coupla online Forums including here.

I had to use some polyseamseal or similar to push into the seam on top of the OBW's left tail light. seems to have stopped the infiltration so far.

yes, but the OEM spec is a little softer, the KYB aftermarkets will feel about 15% stiffer - maybe more if your present struts are worn-out. If you do the fronts, I recommend new mounts up top, mine on my WRX were crunchy/dry feeling.

I've read that soob springs are not overpriced if you want new OEM. Does King offer springs for that car?

if the motor has high miles, consider a lower miles used engine. car-part.com as said, or LKQ, craigslist part-out, JDM, etc.

^^^ what he said when Subaru AWD is abused, the weakest link suffers - that is usually the center differential function (actually, wet clutch pack in the automatic transmissions) not the rear diff (though, ANYTHING can break of course) you need to start with all-same tires if possible, but, if you already KNOW you have torque bind, you can use the FWD fuse foreever if you want and use any size tires. If you still experience torque bind with the fuse in place, there is either a mechanical problem in the tailshaft area of the trans, or possibily an electrical problem with the Duty C Solenoid or it's control wiring.

was the care otherwise running well? abs has been sensitive to low voltage in the past. you could have the charging system tested but, maybe more important is to read the DTC from the computer and post the code(s) here. A parts store should be able to read the codes and test the charging system for you. don't drive the car if the CEL is flashing or it feels unsafe. all modern cars can illuminate 3-4-5 lights and disable some systems when a code is set.

I had a small carabiner for a while but the white SUBARU and blue paint wore off. Right now, just have a Papa Murphy's discount keytag. but, you might like this gif I made from a Rubber Bandits music video;

here, I think shops must charge within 15% of a written estimate - did you get a written estimate? I agree that there is likely an issue with the oil-controlled valve phasers or their switches/sensors. Oil pressure should probably be confirmed after that much work. if it didn't have the present problems going into the dealers shop, could easily be from their work on the car.

how is the car used? drive thru any very high water?

car details?

are you losing coolant? always (safely) check inside the radiator when suspecting cooling problems - don't trust any level in the overflow. confirmed fans operate OK? is the car new to you? if not, anything happen or work done before this began? is coolant being pushed into the overflow? does the level in the overflow fluctuate a little between cool car and hot car?

+1 on keeping up with fluids and tune-up parts. you can make the car feel sportier with suspension upgrades; new struts, heavier anti-sway bars, stickier tires. and lighter rimes will free-up a coupla ponies and give you a chance to personalize the looks a little. Maybe a lightweight crank pulley too. most cops don't care how fast you turn corners. "it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow"

amazon I think. made by Hopkins ??? it's kinda nice also that it has a plug on the end. It might be 3 inches longer than necessary but I haven't cut any off yet. when you're doing gear oil, pour very slowly.