1 Lucky Texan

after you release the tensioner pin, wrench the crank thru 2 revolutions back to installation position, do a tooth count to confirm timing before the first start. Double check any fluids or connections removed before the installation process; coolant, fan connectors, hoses, etc.

miles on car? check inner tie rods for play. it's extremely rare for rotors to actually 'potato chip'/warp. Vibration or pulsing when braking is much more likely due to uneven pad deposits. This can occur under a couple of conditions; 1. slamming to a stop on hot brakes and holding them clamped at a long light or waiting for a train. etc. 2. Some folks will develop uneven deposits from weeks and weeks of very light brake use. Like lots of highway driving and very little and/or smooth 'drama-free' secondary road drive. one other uncommon thing is a car that sits in certain weather conditions unused for weeks/months at a time. Often, an easy fix if, find a LONG stop-free road and maintain 30-40mph while using your left foot to 'drag' the brakes. Enough to feel it. Do that for a coupla blocks - making SURE you can follow-up with a stop free half to 1 mile cool-down run. If the problem gets WORSE, you may have a bad spot (altered temper to the alloy) on a rotor. If it gets better, you may need to repeat the left foot drag, or investigate a more intense "bedding in" procedure. good reading here; http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

IIRC, any large arrows on the cam pulleys will likely be at a 45* angle when put in 'belt installation position' . you DO NOT want any of the shafts at TDC position.

maybe some of the media in the cat conv is loose and blocking exhaust? vacuum gauge testing might be good - might spot a sticking valve too??? sure the feeling of power loss isn't a sticking brake caliper or some other dirveline issue?

nvrmd

there are also wired-in bluetooth adapters. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISFM23-Universal-Bluetooh-Transmitter/dp/B00DHQ6K7Q/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1501076656&sr=8-7&keywords=bluetooth+FM+modulator

have you contacted the manufacturer about any suggestions as to appropriate model, installation instructions or perhaps an installer near you? http://www.synergymfg.com/instructions/instructions/Synergy-Suspension-Heat-Exchanger-Kit-p-30486.html

seems like there could be 2 problems here if it was turning over with a jump at the gas station and not starting. flaky crank position sensor may on that. cel on? post the codes.

some folks report problems with non-oem sensors. why was the part replaced?

there can be some odd reasons why it doesn't move. check for a broken axle (maybe spinning inside a cv boot) check fluids - atf needs to be checked while idling of course. front diff dipstick is on the other side lower and further back. The diff's drain plug is right next to the diff, if it has chunks on the magnet, maybe the front diff is bad? dues to the wet clutchpack in the tail and the diff up front, etc., most folks get a used trans from a wreck - check car-part.com or maybe LKQ trans lines could be corroded and leaking, or maybe the cooler in the rad, check rad level.

did this happen in the same day or 2? did a dealership do the work? if not, what brand part was used? any other work done? miles on car?

dbl pst

start a new thread with the symptoms. delayed or odd shifting, and sometimes torque bind, have been cured with fluid changes and use of Trans-X otherwise, get a used trans from a wreck, LKQ or car-part.com

duh - post 5 says VDC, sry, missed that.

I only know to refer folks to crutchfield.com user @botenredwolf , over at subaruoutback.org , is a stereo guru

EDIT; missed the VDC part and also learned about location of oil pressure sender! (still, I guess it's a possible leak source) VC gaskets are a real possibility. OIl cooler adapter . Some folks will have severe power steering whine with so much air entrainment PS fluid could blow out of the reservoir - all of these are more likely than the timing chain cover leaking. check the 'sticky' threads at the top of the 2nd gen forum and do searches on the items I mentioned for more info. My 03 has viscous rear LSD. It also has the 'weather package' . With the rear up and trans in N, turn a wheel - if the other side turns the same direction, you have rear LSD. but VDC won't have this I think?

wonder if the car has an aftermarket remote start unit added that is failing?

could be an intermittent/worn spot on the TPS potentiometer.

which gaskets are leaking? valve cover gaskets are a bear, but often done in-car, perhaps using some jacking techniques to shift each side of the engine for more clearance.... I don't think leaking gaskets 'in general' are unusual in many older cars...that said, Subaru HAS had issues with head gaskets in more than one series of engines.

some sensors require a 5v reference I think - maybe something is killing that line after it gets hot?

it's true there can be 'cementite' formation or other locally altered temper to the rotor alloy under hot pads. another source of vibration can be from sticking calipers - they must be free to slide. rotors rarely 'potato chip'. They either have pad deposits on them in an uneven pattern or have altered alloy sitting 'proud' of the surface. If the latter, turning them may only help temporarily. If a bed-in procedure doesn't help or makes things worse, I'd just replace the rotor with Centric or other name-brand. good reading; http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

read here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html also, I have read once of the clutch relay being weak/dropping-out.

ever come across an old rubber band? time takes it toll on fluids, rubbers, plastics and greases. I did my WRX's TB at under 70K miles and 9 years, the toothed idler was wobbly and very rough/dry/crunchy. The tensioner had oil on top of it and another idler was rough feeli. glad I did it. The maintenance schedule has a time side. a few things there make no sense - spark plugs for instance. But fluids collect moisture and can be degraded, oxidized or emulsified. try left-foot dragging the brakes for 2-3 blocks at 40mph or so, making sure to cool them down for a mile. Or investigate doing a more aggressive 'bed in' procedure. Often, 'warped' rotors are just uneven pad deposits.

scan for codes as said possible exhaust blockage or knock sensor - but any codes will be important