1 Lucky Texan

it has a decent oil pump? I thought 12 was the FB year, anyway, I bet I can put a timing kit on it myself since I managed to do my WRX's. Probably need it in 2020 or so on the 'time' side of the schedule. is it SOHC?

I may have an opportunity to buy a very low miles 2010 Forester automatic (4eat? 5eat?) soon. Just wondering what little, or BIG, issues I might expect. any have one long-term here? has it been OK? or will it be a nightmare? it's had the fuel tank replaced due to some kind of stuck vent valves. door dings and slight hail damage. (I know it's gonna need some fluids changed, but it really is a little old lady car, my MIL's car.)

this may seem basic but, did you push the light stalk forward? abs can often be the first sign of electrical problems, test the battery and alternator output. of course, wheel sensors and other issues could be present.

I saw one once at a music festival in Palestine TX. I think it had NY plates.

the old mounts were both rough/crunchy feeling. glad to have new ones - plus the new struts. car even feels better now, maybe smoother/quicker feeling steering, less dive and squat. Seems like a little more road noise. old pass side mount; https://goo.gl/photos/f21GfRMDyhEyMPmi8 new - Group N baby! https://goo.gl/photos/X6KbebehcqF4w4PTA

make sure to use the 'groove/dash line' on the tab at the rear of the crank sprocket. (align with the groove on that 'boss' above at approx. 12 o'clock.) do not use any arrow or triangle on the front of the sprocket. you can search for your engine to find the cam alignment positions. One may be tricky to hold in position but, if you align the crank firrst, all the pistons will be at mid-travel and valves will be safe if the cam slips. also, find the tooth count for your engine. use it to triple check after you pull the tensioner pin and crank the sprocket thru 2 times to bring it back to the timing positions. don't start the engine if the tooth count is wrong.

I dunno if they'd experience 'stellar' sales, but I have always maintained that there is an untapped decent market for even compact pick-ups. whether as a commuter or a second-third car 'bomb around town' type vehicle. But it needs to LOOK like a pick-up truck, not an 'open back sedan'. Something in the old Isuzu P'UP size up to mid-size might do OK. Offer it perhaps as an extended cab, make a 'sport' model too. maybe use some BRZ parts (or other Toyota 2wd parts) for a 2WD model, offer AWD as well? But, perhaps their Toyota board members don't want the competition?

Sivart, consider finding a local shop (ask for a suggestion in a new thread) to inspect the car; have the mechanic tell you what needs to be done NOW (timing belt service ? when was it done?) what you should save up for (struts? inner tie rods? brakes ?) what you might live with (squeaks, drips, burned-out dash bulbs, etc.)

not sure on a 97 - if it's rear disc, the parking brakes are inside the center drum area and can be loosed by rotating the 'star' wheel downward. Look behind an oval rubber plug on the backing plate. (unless they are frozen in place...)

have you considered a Forester? I think you get better entry and departure angles to start. dunno on crosstrek but, you might also ask over at subaruoutback.org and the forester forums

as for mods and dealers, in theory (research Magnusson-Moss act as it pertains to autos) a dealer/manufacturer that is denying a warranty claim would need to prove your unapproved mod/treatment of the vehicle caused the damage. Of course, this 'could' get into a fingerpointing waste of time before any resolution. In the past, Subaru has offered rear diff protectors and other items designed for off-road use. Those of course wouldn't be questioned. outside of the warranty period - I suppose any mechanic could reject working on a car if they felt it had been compromised by a mod. This would probably be more likely at a dealership. I can't really help with anything else.

were you able to watch the youtube video I linked? (just left CoSpgs coupla weeks ago - got caught in horrible white-out on 64 going to Clayton. terrifying)

except the rad is low and the o'flow is high. I'd install a new radiator cap too I think. make sure the overflow tube is clear, cut the bottom of it at a 45* angle, use 2 small zipties to clamp it to its nipple at the rad's neck.. when you refill, consider getting the car's nose uphill or on ramps, rad full and overflow on the line or a above - make noted of its level - and idle it till the fans come on, let it cool, then check the level again in the overflow - top off if necessary.

maybe some fresh trans fluid would help? (check ATF level while idling)

not hopeful that the prev. owner did that - perhaps covering-up a problem. make sure to check coolant level in the radiator. does the car push coolant into the overflow bottle? do the fans both work (kinda seems like one or both may not if overheating only presents whe the car is stopped or perhaps in very slow traffic) thermostats for our car must be OEM style;

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/24447-clock-issues-2005-outback.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clock-repair-125959.html?s=a44285ff5d63a02a685514d8ea88c8e1&

cracked flexplate? youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=3OFTVscB3_U

I saw this, dunno about compatibility; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/421050-center-differential.html#post4817538

sticking brakes, some kind of failure with cv joint on left axle???? start with a careful inspection of driveline, brakes and steering components

could be abraded wires in that boot from the body to the hatch too.

tetondon - we need details on the car. Id the car new to you? any wrecks or work done before problems began? can you expand a little of what symptoms you have? Have you tested voltage at the battery while idling?

cool - like WWII submarine movies!

back when 2nd gear grenaded on my WRX the shop didn't want to install an axle because of a split boot. I gave them the go-ahead to put in a new axle. (FEQ ? that they get from worldpac) when I picked the car up, I asked for my old axle - I think they at first thought I was suspicious of their work, I told them I was gonna re-boot it. They got it outta the recycle bin (shoulda asked if the had any more) got that done today (Beck-Arnley kit, nice, includes grease, bands, boot and new snap ring) - gonna put it on when I do the struts - probably next weekend . Just mentioning because I noticed there are markings on the end of the axle that seemed lined-up with the 3 ears on the spider/tripod - I've always wondered about 'clocking' or timing of the radial position of the 2 CV joints to each other. My guess is, it may be important, at least important enough to mark the axle.

maybe RockAuto carries them?

is it 'kinda better' when stone cold - then gets bad after 5-10 minutes? if so, points to center diff failure from what I've read.