1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I wish,... that's what I was asking you about. I had to have 2nd gear/rebuild fixed in my WRX's trans - AWD Tuning in Flower Mound did it. But it's quite far from where I live. I think they were VERY fair with the price, just kinda slow getting it done. Everything else I've done myself so far but, I really can't get deep into it and my age, lack of experience and lack of a 'helper', makes it more difficult to do 'heavy' wrenching. I recently had an air bag recall done (cost me $0 and I got a loaner) on the Outback at the new Sam Pack dealership in Grapevine - but their labor rate is $135/hr !!! It's an option but, pricey and still a longer drive than ideal. Dunno what I'm gonna do when I need a clutch. I might try MP Auto in Pantego - they've helped my daughter a lot and have good reviews - but I dunno how Subaru-experienced they are. I guess a clutch change shouldn't be tricky for them. If I needed an auto machine shop, guess I'd call Arlington Automotive Machine first and have a conversation, I just haven't needed that, yet. -
pretty much already diagnosed, but, you could try one of the chemical block or head gasket tests they sell. When you have the bubbling, use the fluid tester and - if it turns blue to green or yellow, that's combustion products. You can even find youtube videos of the process.
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it's still beautiful to us - but, we've been to CoSpgs a few times - just looking for an inexpensive sightseeing/tourist option.
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any 'chunks' on the diff's drain plug magnet?
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swap axles side to side, maybe it will help find a bad axle or prove the diff is the problem? otherwise - what he said, you might find a lower miles trans from a wreck - chances are decent it was running well when the wreck happened. Fresh fluid and maybe a bottle of Trans-X. reject any trans with a dent in the pan - be very careful with any torque converter that slips out of place - google it, must be seated properly.
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yeah - I think you can use an ohmmeter to test for smooth TPS transition - but the problem seems little more like a sticking throttle plate??? not sure you may be overdue for a timing belt system service unless it was done in about 2011 or so.
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what shop? yeah, the rear main seal 'almost' never leaks - I think in years of reading across several subaru forums, I read of ONE leaking, and it may have been previously replaced. Inspecting the air-oil cover is a good idea, though,the problematic ones were the old plastic covers. gd - are there spots on the crossover pipe he should look at? basically, where would you want to get your eyes to check o-rings/seals and for rust, etc.? what are the 'gotchas' to be careful about over or under torqueing?
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some reading at traildamage led me to Rampart Range Road , looks easiest/best for me. Probably try an out-and-back from the s. entrance at G of the G . If I have time, might try more of it since I'll have a week in the area.
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Might have time for an off-road drive this time in C'Springs . But, I have no mods and will be on all-seasons. Just wondering if there's anything for flatlanders that might get them a little more rugged scenery , without needing a winch or a shovel or a buddy with recovery straps. Not that I, personally, wouldn't love an adventure - but the wife would like to keep her car greasy side down - and we need it to drive back to Tejas.
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could be a vacuum leak and the culprit is still underhood somewhere. possibly a sensor....not sure
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try subarugenuineparts.com - they are in Washington I think
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have someone activate the spray while you watch underhood. I recently had low spray on our OB and it was a deteriorated rubber elbow leaking.
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in case you missed it on the radio - Trump is President.
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wow - what dealership/shop was that ? you may be making this a bigger project that needed. nothing wrong with that if you want a project. front crank and cam seals are often, not always, changed at timing belt service. If they look dry, you could wait on that. never read of rear seal change as a PM - and although I understand on the oil pickup, I dunno if it's worth doing if you aren't into the pan for other reasons. Let us know how that goes. Kinda want a Killer B on my WRX, but, I'm afraid I would introduce a leak from the pan as I have no experience with modern sealant use. if you pull the heads, it's my understanding the bolts are re-used. But, new cam cover gaskets would be a great idea. kinda out of my element so, maybe gd or others can advise you better.
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is it thin and corrugated? split down the side? - maybe related to some wiring???? prev. owner had an amp in the trunk? yeah just trace it, seems kinda hazardous if fuel vapors come from it into the trunk!
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gd is telling you you can buy a new mount for the tensioner - no hassle and no helicoil. gd - isn't there even a design change on the mount - if I recall correctly, it's an upgrade. (or maybe that's only on turbo engines, something about the steel insert the hydraulic pin rides against?) anyway - it's number 9 is this diagram (part # 13156AA052 I THINK, confirm before purchase)
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probably goes to the charcoal canister? older soobs sometimes have rusted holes in the filler neck behind the plastic cover. that will smell.
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there may be some other codes retrievable by the dealership's SSM. there may be a recall or TSB related to the issue. Perhaps even a bad accelerator pedal assembly but, I thought that was older models than 08 and usuallset a code. I'd be tempted to have the battery and alternator checked I think.
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GD - could he do leak down tests as-is? anyway, if the engine was running when a car was rear-ended, it should be OK. But, rebuilding one or both of your heads is probably cheaper than an engine purchase and swap....dunno.
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well, other things under a car can make noises, but if the original diagnosis was correct then, the part you received seems to be bad. (slim possibility but, maybe the shop didn't tighten the axle nut well or, they left an endlink loose or.... some other re-assembly issue is now the problem?) was it a rebuilt axle? they are often reground to receive larger ball bearings, the grinding 'should' be done by a multi-axis machine, not by hand. and, it should NOT remove all the case hardening. and they should use good lubricants. and they should pay attention to 'clocking' the joints (installing them correctly in relation to each other's rotational position). if you are using your own labor, the 'lifetime warranty' that comes with them isn't quite so bad - makes them a tempting risk. But, you might now have to pay labor charges again. Many people have been down this road.
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the main complaint I read about the blends is, you don't know if they are 50% synth, or 1% . maybe you could discover over at www.bobistheoilguy.com . LOTS of info and discussions about oil over there.
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give AWD Tuning in Flower Mound - a call, but, not many places around I'm afraid.
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check bushings at the rear of the lower control arm.
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cars101.com has programming instructions too.
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check ebay if a WTB in the classifieds doesn't work. you might try over at subaruoutback.org and the forester forum. many systems are the same across models. fobs are around.