1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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thanx, I was googling a little and saw where there's a lot of dust and chunks inside some of those Mitsuba. are they 2 or 4 brush? is there an upgraded brush plate or brushes? and thanx for letting folks know about this. -
^^^ interesting. Other than visual inspection, is there a test for that? does whacking the starter alter the brush's contact or ????
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yep - I can 'troubleshoot by the law of averages' for a lot cheaper.
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if original, battery may be getting old. It can be tested.
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I think some folks have had to 'pop' their clutch or brake pedal a coupla times - or replace some kind of button? Except, I don't think you'd get even one click if it was a starter lock-out/security/safety condition.
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next time if fails, try 2 things but not at the same time. whack the starter with piece of 2x4. jam it on or knock it - depending on the room you have. Try that several times and try starting. If it starts after whack - bad contacts in the solenoid. wiggle the battery cables. they sometimes can have corrosion wicked down under the insulation - compromising their conductivity. or the bad terminals or bad gnd connection.
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P0420 is a bane for everyone but, it often is not the cat conv. - look for exhaust leaks, catch-up on any tune-up type stuff. Also check for corroded ground connections or rodent-chewed wiring.
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yeah, 160K miles and 18 year old car? it's gonna need more than just oil changes
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if you start it and simultaneously have someone begin spraying starter fluid in the intake - will it continue to run? if so, fueling issue, if not, ignition/electrical or air. I'm no expert and certainly your project is beyond my abilities but, one easy thing that can happen on many cars that fail to start after some repair work is disturbing the idle air hose or issues with the IACV.
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^^^^point taken The discharge hose on our 03 H6 has been changed twice. Kinda wonder about vibration since it bends ~90* from the comp. to the condenser. . maybe that 'elbow' of rubber flopping up-down causes early failure? I have looked for a way to brace it - doesn't seem like I could come up with a 'clean'/elegant way to do it.
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make sure the sound isn't the alt. bearing or something else but - if it's the pump, they don't really have a high failure rate so, getting a low miles unit off a wreck is a good option.
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that's a weird noise - maybe the relief valve inside? (is the sedan an H6? there's TSB for the relief valve I think) (did you spray the belt with a plant mister? cheap and easy - though it really doesn't sound like a belt. maybe the edge of the belt is shredded and some fiber is whipping around???)
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interesting about the pistons, but I suppose it could still be a rod cap or rod bearing issue of some kind pull the oil drain plug and examine the oil for particles????
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if you pull the plugs and use a 'stick' or something inside the plug holes to monitor the depth, you might find that, as you turn the crank, all but 1 piston is moving. That would be a 'thrown rod' situation.
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sounds bad - rod cap might prevent turning one way vs the other. you need to pull the timing covers and check cam/crank timing and components first I'd guess.
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how old is the belt? spray a little water on the belt and see if the noise changes?
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check for the bubbles while idling. Some fluid reservoirs make it tricky, get your eye down close - might need a flashlight.
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look inside the ps tank for bubbles - could just be air entrainment from a bad o-ring.
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start with the basics - check fluids and timing belt system components. lots of things can make noise; cracked flexplate, timing belt flopping around, clutch release and 5spd input shaft bearings, piston slap, etc.
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if incompatible lube was ever used in the past, the rubber bushings on the pins can swell and cause problems. Some folks just remove them. They only block a little a dust and maybe reduce a little rattle occasionally. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/35423-caliper-slide-pin-missing-rubber-sleeve.html
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due to ackerman angle steering geometry, the wheel on the inside of a turn is at it's limit so, stress on the cvj is maxed out. You could also try having someone pace the car on foot and pin down the sound for certain.
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in addition to the poor reliability of rebuilt alternators, there have been reports of H6 owners receiving the wrong one. The alt for the 4 cyl. will NOT work for the 6 cyl.
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what they said ^^^^^ plus, you probably know but, ATF is the only fluid you check with the engine idling. if the fresh fluid doesn't help (give it a week or 2) some folks find a bottle of Trans-X helps, but may only last a year or 2 before another bottle is needed.
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contact SOA - dealer will do nothing outside the guidelines without the OK from a Regional Rep or Mother Subie.
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you absolutely DO NOT want to shift that thing. after 04 or so - maybe depending on model, Subaru went with integrated shafts that just pop in/out. There's a springy circlip in a groove near the end of the splines - you'll see.
