1 Lucky Texan

after about 04 , they went with axles that have an integrated splined shaft. it is retained by a circular spring clip that will allow it to pop out.

could there be black or other diagnostic connectors under the dash confusing the issue? but that brings to question why the dealership would miss that

I'm sure it's been tried, but, a battery neg terminal dosconnect might be helpful. my 06 WRX wagon has gone into limp mode twice. Once it 'seemed' due to a weak battery, the other time the problem was cured with a battery disconnect reset. but your issue seems more severe...? I THINK some cars have had a wire harness become abdraded by the steering column's u-joint - as said above, worth looking around for broken grounds and other wiring problems.

brief search seems to indicate your Innova reader should read most of the Subaru data - maybe not ABS, but engine sensor stuff should be available. My old 3130 reads my 03 and my 06 cars. if the car is older than 95, it may not read anything....

????? replied to wrong thread

unless done in the last coupla years, your car is due for a timing belt system service.

I dunno how many miles are on the car, but many people would opt for a used transmission from a wreck. If you happen to have very low miles and the car has been meticulously serviced at a dealership - you could try contacting SOA and have a regional rep review the issue. I have read of more than one instance where major components have gone bad at low mileage and Subaru has split the cost or comped the labor, etc. worse thing that happens is they say no.

sounds about right to me.

optional

shoe huh? did it work like a seat wedge cup holder?

what about cycling the key from OFF to ON (not start) quickly 3 times? (on some cars, maybe older models, there was a button under the dash you had to push too) might be some info at www.cars101.com

compression/leakdown testing

could dipsticks have somehow been swapped or be incorrect? any chance of radiator coolant being pushed thru a leaking trans cooler?

has the car had a rebuilt alternator installed? Did the shop mention anything about the surging light or any other electrical problems?

owners lose billions due to rust http://newsroom.aaa.com/2017/02/road-de-icers-cause-3-billion-annually-vehicle-rust-damage/

the MT shares fluid with the front diff. GL-5 is the spec. check your manual but I believe there's actually a different weight listed for trans vs rear diff - though many folks have probably used the same fluid in both locations. Rear diff can definitely use synthetic. many people report some shifting problems if using full synthetic in the trans. supposedly the synchros spin too well with the improved lubrication. automatics do, of course have their front diff separate from the ATF.

last line of post 16 seems to be 10mm part numbers. you should ask gd to confirm, and, when you receive the part, measure the rotor thickness.

fuel rail is common - and I think it has it's own regulator/pulse absorber gadget valve advance system is common, but I'd expect a code other than just misfire.

how many miles on this engine? has it been properly maintained?

my Amsoil severe gear was put in by the shop that rebuilt my trans after 2nd gear was destroyed.(seeemingly not a wear-related failure - the shop said, and showed me, that even the synchros looked good - just that the 5mt's 2 piece case is known to flex too much, usually 3rd gear gets it, sometimes 2nd) Before that, I had Extra-S in it. Before that, I had RL LW SP. This Amsoil is in between the Extra-S and the Redline in 'feel'. But, I haven't run it during the summer yet so, kinda early to say if I prefer the Redline over amsoil. The Redline was like butter. Might not be thin enough though for northerners ??? Extra-S felt very notchy/scrape-y in the summertime. many people like the Motul though, no question.

I would definitely inspect the bolt's magnet - it sits adjacent to the diff and actually is in a bad position to have 'chunks' from elsewhere in the trans. on it - there are internal bulkheads that make it difficult for mainshaft or driven gear pieces to get to it. Of course - more than 1/4 or 1/2 teaspoon of 'sludge' could be a bad sign - as well as a metallic particle sheen to the fluid. if someone other than you has been maintaining the car - incorrect fluid may have been used in the trans in the past. normally it should be a non-synthetic GL-5. (other fluids known to work for people which may have some type of synthetic substance in them are Walmart synth-blend gear oil, and Redline Lightweight Shockproof, Motul 300 has a following but I know nothing about it.) Redline LW Shockproof quieted the front diff in our 03 H6 Outback a little. I have Amsoil Severe Gear in my WRX's trans at the moment. NO FLUID will repair something broken, but the right fluid can help the trans shift better and maybe last longer. Just based on what you've written, I might be tempted to run Redline LW or HW Shockproof while saving up for a used transmission swap. check LKQ or car-part.com

good info - kinda confusing for us that don't handle this stuff regularly. found a coupla pics - here's the '78' (11 mm?) are these the same size as marked?

it says; Subaru: 5 models, 178 variants between 2002 and 2006. OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY-ENGINE Part Number: 15010AA290 ; 15010AA260; 15010AA261; 15010AA262 so, I assume all non-turbo models in that range have those numbers stock and they are 7mm very interesting looks like the 10mm part number is; used in 7 models, 275 variants between 1991 and 2009. Part Number: 15010AA300 ; 15010AA103; 15010AA104; 15010AA105; 15010AA106; 15010AA107; 15010AA108; 15010AA109; 15010AA280

DOH! - of course - that would be under ecu control, I forgot.

in Slovakia - could this model be drive-by-wire?