1 Lucky Texan

weird did you install different axles?

sounds like you have the green diagnostic connectors under the dash connected. They cycle the fans and all the solenoids. disconnect them. have you called the gas station again? You might try to find other 'victims' in your area - dunno how - maybe a 'consumer advocate' TV reporter? anyway - that fuel looks awful - maybe a truck still had diesel in it or ??? - do either of the fluids smell like alcohol? I have heard of ethanol being added and they rely on the driving to mix it in - but there;s speculation that it may not work if the a delivery is made quite near the terminal. interesting.

3 drain/fills gets you about 85% new fluid. If that has helped already, you could try it again. Most folks like Valvoline MaxLife in the 4EATs. some folks that continue to have delayed engagement or other issue have reported that a bottle of Trans-X (K&W or CRC brand ?) helps.

wd-40 is a better solvent than lube. and the lube portion isn't long-lasting. Silarmic is popular, I use this ; they say the green-label stuff mustn't get on any rubber.

uneven length headers feeding the turbo is mostly what makes that distinctive sound. a full swap of engine, trans and rear diff would be best. ' Impractical ' to just add a turbo to an NA engine. you CAN make you car more fun to throw around the corners - weight reduction, stickier tires, heavier springs/antisway bars, etc. "it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow"

is there still a jet pump to xfer fuel from the non-pump side? how do they do it now?

call the gas station and ask if anyone else has complained about bad fuel. can you get the flash code out of the ecu? post the number(s) here.

if it's just air at the bleeders - re-doing the procedure as you said should straighten it out.

do you smell fuel around the car? maybe a clamp is loose.

are you sure there wasn't a single click? as said, 17 year-old starter could easily need a solenoid rebuild - cheap and fairly easy. next time it happens, have a piece of 2x4 to whack it. that often gets things working. Also, try 'popping' the brake pedal, I think there's a switch there that can disable starting.

did you let the reservoir go dry or religiously top it off as you proceeded? did you leave one bleeder open when working at a different caliper?

I think I read once of a casting flaw or crack in the throttle body that let coolant in. and I think coolant is bad for O2 sensors so, maybe it's bad now too? I'd think a coolant system pressure test would help locate the problem quickly.

rotors may be OK - read about 'uneven pad deposits' - even if they need replacing, as said fairly easy and not crazy expensive parts. I'd get Centric rotors from RockAuto or maybe amazon. 2008 should have HBA bearing - Timken from RockAuto would be my choice I think. if the a/c system has not sat exposed to the atmosphere, get a junkyard compressor, 2 new o-rings and schrader valves inserts, 22 or w'ever ozs of refrigerant and fix it. blower motor? dunno how hard to swap out, might be fiddly but likely not difficult. new cabin air filter while you're there. you might find DIY threads and youtube videos for most of that work.

ah - was hoping but, I guess the 5eat never got paired to the FB. I've never leased a car but my circumstances may push me to try that as well. thanx numb

what's wrong with the a/c comp? many times, Subaru owners replace a coupla o-rings, maybe the schrader valves, recharge the system to the amount listed on the label under-hood and have no problems after that. quite common for the suction and discharge hose connections to need o-rings. occasionally, the clutch needs to be adjusted or a bearing goes bad.

so, a '12 and '13 would have 5EAT with the FB engine?

My wife really wants a newer/new car. I might consider a 2-3-maybe 4 year-old Forester but know little about them. What years were the oil burners? where is the model year break? any glaring problems to look for? (I may try to keep my other cars even though it would be easier financially to trade one in. I love my WRX , and keeping her Outback makes it easier to have a spare car that non-manual drivers in the family can borrow) I'm sure she's in a hurry - but I'm not

scan for codes.

should be one small bolt - up top at the front under the alternator. you can google search for pics probably - might even be a youtube video. there have been a coupla reports of folks wiping grime off of the sensor and it works - but they are not expensive sensors so, new one is a good value. can;t rule-out a connector/cable problem either until you examine it. also, be aware your car is due for a timing belt system service unless already done. Due at 105K miles OR 105 months, whichever is first. major valve damage if that system fails. $$$$

describe your shifting problems. Any fluid changes done before this began? Our manual transmissions don't seem to like synthetic GL-5 for instance.

if you're always near 'home base' and/or can easily call for help, don't worry about. but fuel pump, alternator and maybe starter are some of the main things that might strand you. For some folks, it might be a good idea to get ahead of the problem. just be sure to research what you get as replacement - some folks have had bad luck with aftermarket parts or cheap rebuilt alternators, etc.

when the cam pulley is turned - are you sure the camshaft turns? just asking cause I have read of cracked pulleys - dunno if they'd turn or fall off though.... when it cranks - does the rhythm of the cranking sound even?

pressure test to make sure? - maybe a new rad cap? but, seems like the lower hose has been leaking.

find some switch cleaner, CRC or other brand and spray in there? not to familiar with Foresters - could some coffee or a milkshake have been spilled in there?

also at cars101 - begin about halfway down; http://www.cars101.com/subaru/tiresandwheels.html#outback