1 Lucky Texan

the problem with used WRXes is, did some kid already ream it out. Turbo Foresters might not have that issue.

cleaning and refreshing ground connections might be worthwhile - especially if there seems to be some rust/corrosion on the car.

you can find on-line calculators that can help with most of the offset/profile/width/diameter issues of wheel/tire combinations - but if you are going more than a few millimeters wider, they often won't help with rubbing problems. Often best to ask in the various forums if a certain wheel/tire combo has created problems for people. That may be why you aren't finding too many options - there can be clearance issues where the tire could rub on the spring perch, fender or something. And if you find something that works now, it may rub after the lift depending on hoe you accomplish that. nasioc.com may have some guidance but really, for a '16 Outback, you may very well be among the first to try anything and reports of that mod may be scarce. And the NASIOC guys can be cranky - make sure you search and read first.

have you checked your local Discount Tire? (awesome folks) Or Tirerack on-line?

does he run pump gas or use exotic fuels or additives? doe he have a habit of running very low tank levels and just adding 2-3 gallons occasionally?

when was the timing belt system serviced? he needs irrefutable proof it has been done in the last 8 years or so by TIME. (every 105K miles or 105 MONTHS) major damage if idler or belt or tenisioner fails. tensioners can make click/knock noises.

any written proof of the timing belt service? Needs to have had the idlers and tensioner replaced or will need to redo - or perhaps AT LEAST accelerate the schedule and do the next service early. you might also consider paying a mechanic for a prepurchase inspection - you might avoid a headache or get some ammunition to bargain the price down. Could be worth $100.

you are gonna replace idlers and tensioner too right? anyway, from what I have been reading lately, I'd get Mitsuboshi or OEM I think. got my WRX kit from mizumoauto on ebay.

^^^^ what he said - often not the cat. Plus, the cat is expensive so, should usually be the last resort. Can easily be exhaust leak, or rear O2 sensor, other things....

not unique to Subaru - I once bought a Toyota that had a new TB, but evidently original idlers - one seized while I was out of town with my middle daughter. PROPER timing belt system service must be done - not just a "belt slap". if you rebuild, use MLS headgaskets on properly prepped heads.

could be a clamp that leaks in cold weather. Subaru had some, I believe Imprezas, that did that 10-15 years ago. I have no idea if a modern-era Subaru has a way to cycle the fuel pump a few times before trying to start - but if you could, doing that next time you feel certain the car would exhibit the problem, might prove loss of pressure in the injector rails, perhaps due to a leak since you smell fuel. just looking/smelling around might reveal drips of fuel. Or, arrange to leave the car overnight, outdoors, at the dealer and insist on being there in the morning when they attempt the first start.

do you have fuel smell near the car on the outside when it's very cold?

most common would be dew/moisture causing misfires - it gets cooked-off after the engine warms up. less common might be Engine Temps sensor failing to 'choke' cold engine.

+1 hoping bypass or oil cooler or other easy fix.

there can be 'pending' codes. if you have a smartphone, an inexpensive ELM327 BT adapter and a downloaded app can be used to get more data. also, any association with temperature or moisture/rain? any wrecks or work done just before the problem started?

I was prepared to ask about plugs and plug wires about halfway thru reading. But now, I think live data may be the best way to proceed - seems A:F ratios could still be off since it begins running poorly aAFTER running well following an ECU reset. though exceedingly unlikely - I wouldn't rule out the knock sensor - maybe you got a bad one or it was installed with too much torque or the cable routed over a 'bump' in the casting.(I have read that is an issue on some models)

if it smells like toasted marshmallows - that is coolant. details on car please - if it's an older car, I might be tempted to try a bottle of the Subaru Coolant Conditioner (it's a type of stop leak) but, I have doubts it would solve a heater core leak. pulling the dash or bypassing the coil with a hose-loop of some type may be the best choices.

we never want this to be headgaskets, but it often is. prepare yourself for that likelihood. things to check/try; First, make certain the radiator fans are working. the car MUST have a working OEM-style thermostat, many aftermarkets will not work.(see pic below) a new radiator cap (OEM or maybe Stant) would be a good idea. Pull the o'flow tube out of the bottle and cut the end at a 45* angle. Put a tiny clamp or 2 small zipties on the o'flow tube at the radiator neck's nipple. it can be tricky filling many Subarus with coolant, best to get the nose uphill or on ramps and cycle the car from cold, to warmed up a coupla times while watching a little coolant be sucked in from the o'flow. good job BTW actually looking in the radiator to check the level - don't trust the level in the o'flow.

pressure testing of the coolant system seems in order.

seems like therte's enough miles on the clutch for it to be suspect. also, wouldn't the 'default' of a failing hydraulic system be 'engaged'? and pumping the pedal might be required to disengage the clutch ?

the proper way to adjust parking brake shoes, is to rotate the s'tar' wheel UP on both sides, it's behind an oval rubber plug on the backing plates in the rear. Search for info on that. (unless the hill holder makes it different somehow. ??? Fairtax?) if that hill holder is even slightly related to your problem - ask fairtax how to disable/remove it - you live in HOUSTON for gosh sakes ! lol!

under some odd circumstances, you can have a flooding condition. When it's very cold and the car is started, moved a very short distance and immediately turned off - when you try to re-start, it will be floded. Try either pulling plugs to see if they are wet with fuel, or, the 'clear flood' procedure - crank with the gas pedal HELD all the way down on the floor. also, have you scanned the ECU for pending codes? also, this gen Outback can have problems with a cracked cap/ruptured-displace o-ring on the fuel pump. There's a $75-$100 dollar fix for that. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

What lube is in the trans now? Synthetics don't work well for many people. I liked the RL Lightweight SP I used in the past. And the Amsoil Severe gear in there now is OK (both feel better to me than the Subaru stuff - but I haven't felt the Amsoil in the Summer yet.) Motul has lots of fans, it's also pricey though. no fluid will repair a broken trans, but some let the synchros work better if you have clashing or 'notchy' shifting. Some folks are praising the Walmart synth-BLEND stuff and it's 1/2 - 1/3 the price of most lubes reported to work well; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/experimenting-wally-world-supertech-75w-90-88763.html

It may be worth trying 3 fluid drain/fills and on the last fill, use Trans-X. Especially if the binding goes away with use of the fuse - may mean the trans-x has a chance to bring the seal back to life? if the fuse doesn't fix the binding, good chance the 'basket' is grooved in the tail of the trans as said above. just an idea

it isn't required/necessary - but, if you you can't find a highly-rated independent shop near you, dealer may be the best choice. ask in a new thread and somomne may be able to recommend a mechanic, you will likely save a little money.