1 Lucky Texan

you may have 2 problems, you may have 5 - but here's some things to check; many people find cracked knock sensors that didn't cause a CEL. Oil in the plug holse/on wire boots will cause missing - as will bad spark plug wires (OEM wires preferred). Some folks confirm bad wires/coil at night , engine idling, by using a plant mister to spray watter on the high voltage parts - listen for engine stumbling and look for arcing. you should still rotate front pair of tires with the rear to monitor for a change in the wobble. Check inner tie rods for play, they might clunk. Inspect the rear bushings for the lower control arms. they can clunk. Both those can make a wobble. Noise up front could be several things but; check for air in the power steering reservoir - there should be no bubbles or foam. Ait intake filter box might not be securely clipped-in at the bottom. Wheel bearing could be bad. Not a bad idea to confirm brake calipers are sliding well.

battery light is in a special circuit I think so, I'd be looking for a bad ground or some fuse(s) bad. I wouldn't rule-out something odd with the illumination module.

details on car? year/miles/condition etc.

I have read that arcing might be spotted on an idling engine at night - perhaps if you use a plant mister to wet down the coil then individual plug wires to listen for engine stumbling and look for flashes. otherwise - need a high voltage o'scope or probe of some kind.

you may be fighting 2-3 issues. A common fuel smell on older soobs is perforated filler neck. Take the plastic cover off to inspect.

I wouldn't rule-out a frozen brake caliper - but??????

just a coupla thoughts, did you connect the green connectors under the dash? they are only for diagnosis and make the relays all cycle. on some older soobs, I have read of crank position sensors failing with temperature. maybe pull the thermostat and test it on the stove? (OEM style ONLY!!)

is that 06 drive-by-wire? early DBW had a pedal assembly that suffered from issues (moisture?) you might search if DBW - easy swap I think but I haven't done it.

check LKQ and car-part.com for a junkyard engine to swap in.

you checked fluid level while idling? how old is the fluid?

clacking? you said speed of the car - so, the clacking is also car/tire rotation related? not engine rpm? I'd say clacking could very well be a CV joint. auto or 5spd trans? sound left, right or center? (have someone else drive and sit in the pass. seat) when was the last timing belt systems service? who did the work? take a close look at the crank pulley while idling. running true and straight? no wobbling?

^^^^ wisdom right there. coupla small things that I've done based on reading and experience. put 2 small zip-ties or a small clamp on the overflow tube at the nipple on the radiator's neck. it may be possible for air to be drawn in as the rubber ages and gets less compliant. Pull the other end of that tube up outta the o'flow tank and cut he end at a 45* angle to help prevent the bottom possibly being blocked. A new radiator cap may be a good idea as well.

some folks swear by a dose of Marvel Mystery Oil, but I have no experience with it.

I don't associate squeaking with a cv joint - could happen I suppose. look at the brake backing plate - could be touching the rotor or have a twig/pebble trap next to the rotor. maybe a wheel bearing?

in addition to help here, you might research at nasioc.com too.

my 'guess' is, the frame of the t'stat may have been in a 'bind'. I'd like to point out however, many people have trouble burping all the air out of the cooling system and, there could have been an air-block contributing to the problem. We may never know.

I had to trim 2 of 3 of the aftermarket (Gates) hoses I bought for the wife's 03 H6. If one wasn't trimmed - likely chafing would have resulted.

easiest mistake that might create more noise would be not getting the airbox seated properly. can you describe the noise more? is it a whoosh or a ticking or ??? these cars also can have loose heatsheilds. what shop did the work? if they are unfamiliar with Subarus, maybe a mistake was made with draining/filling the correct fluid - check fluid levels ASAP. consider taking it back and take someone for a ride to demonstrate the sound.

oh, AT temp?

well, he could put a piece of black tape over the light.

first, I HOPE he checked his engine oil level. perhaps checking voltage at the battery while idling would be good - to confirm he doesn't have low system voltage. Having a mechanic confirm he actually has low oil pressure - vs an intermittent sensor or other electrical problem - would be the best place to start. Those oil pressure swiutches/senders come on at about 3psi I think ! If you want to risk losing a little time and money, the pressure sender is located sorta under the alternator I think. Not hard to change. You can probably do a search for pics - might even find a youtube video. if he actually has low oil pressure - it could be from extreme wear on the bearings, it could be loose screws on the oil pump's backplate, dented oil pan/cracked oil pick-up tube, a few different things. edit - beat by my slow typing!

first, diagnose the knocking, a weak timing belt tensioner can mimic a knock. The timing belt SYSTEM should have been done at 105K miles. If only a belt was done instead of rollers an tensioner, the tensioner could have failed.

destroyed rear bushings on the lower control arms will thump - but not usually in-sync with rolling.

look around the steering shaft u-joint. i have read of it abrading through a wire harness.

broken axle?