1 Lucky Texan

He says it's a FWD trans so, no rear diff or driveshaft.

If it's like my 4EAT but just without the tail section then yeah. technically, it's 2 units put together but no one 'rebuilds' the diffs (NOTE, that's not say some kinda seal or bearing at the axle output can't be repaired - but it's still tricky I think getting the bearing preload back to factory setting) - so, you might check LKQ and car-part.com for a used trans. KInda suspect the FWD version might be hard to find but, i haven't looked.

just my opinion; 1. go with it if you feel 'pieces' won't come off. If it's blemished a little - even deformed a little - it may resume it's molded form after a little heating. Maybe leave it on for the stove-top test even. polymers often have a 'memory'. Plus, seems like worst that might happen is some slight amount might bypass around the seal - no different than the jiggle pin. But you don't want chunks of it to come off! 2. Read those jugs text. I suspect it's OK to mix them. DexCool is often the bad one to be avoided I think. glycol based coolants should be able to mix. many people DO feel you need certain additives and low-amounts of other components but I think both those brands have been used by subaru owners. I'd risk it. Is it 'ideal' no, but, shouldn't be 'catastrophic'. 3. I don't think I'd use an entire bottle of conditioner. Just an amount proportional to what's being put in - maybe 1/2 bottle? I like to clean-out the overflow bottle - shake some ice cubes back and forth in it, rinse it out. Cut the little tube's bottom at 45* angle. Use a coupla small zip tie on the other end to create a good seal on the nipple at the radiator's neck. Inspect rad cap - replace if old. I like Stant, some folks insist on OEM.

the metal is thin, but as I recall, it seemed strong as fair mentioned. you could test the t'stat in a pot of hot water. opens at 171*F or so. (never create a situation where any animal or child/person could ingest coolant - permanent kidney damage and perhaps death will occur - no open drain pans a cat or dog could get to, etc. ,wash things thoroughly after stove top test)

I just mentioned is as a possibility. doesn't mean that's what happened.

pan? example, pinion turns ~4 times against ring gear in diff. (like 9 teeth on pinion against 37 on ring = 4.11 final drive) I admit to being ignorant of specifics of the FWD transmission but, on my car, the front differential has a separate drain plug with a magnet - maybe inspect it for big pieces? 4 vs 1 time per rev :example, pinion turns ~4 times against ring gear in diff. (like 9 teeth on pinion against 37 on ring = 4.11 final drive) maybe output bearing on side of the diff? that might be 1 time per tire revolution. if you could get the car up to AWD Tuning in Flower Mound, I bet those guys could diagnose it. I just really am throwing out possibilities - fairtax has the experience here. If you rule out bearings and axles - diff/trans is about the only thing left. If it helps, axles can be swapped side-to-side.

fair - could that install have bent/warped the t'stat enough to prevent opening?

are you still getting all the same blink codes you listed? on something as old as 92, I'd be tempted to put in a knock sensor and maybe a crank position sensor but, maybe the codes will point to something else?

just ducking in to mention I recently chaged the coolant and 3 big rad hoses on my 03 H6. first, draining it made a big mess - next time I'll try to position receptacles better. Someone mentioned hose clamps. A brand GEMI was mentioned in another thread and I bought some from Amazon - they are very nice, narrower that typical screw-type and the edges are rolled up. so, you might check them out. (diameter ranges listed in mm)

plug wires?

year? miles? general condition? what brand plugs/wires? Subarus are picky in this area.

none of us would have been likely to use Omnispark or most other aftermarket wires. perhaps we were just holding our breath hoping you'd report good performance? If you have the old wires, you could put them back on as a test but, seems like they are pretty old. OEM wires really do seem to be best. Perhaps 130 miles is what it took to oil-soak the new boot - maybe shorting high voltage again? any codes stored? um, any correlation with fuel level? maybe you have a fuel supply problem.

that's a real issue. that light comes on at 2 or 3 psi ! is the oil pan dented? how many miles on the car? any engine work done? there's an o-ring in the pan that I think can cause problems with pressure. Also, it's possible, though rare, the pick-up tube is cracked. maybe the pump has loose backplate screws?

have you checked front diff fluid level or pulled the diff's drain plug to inspect the magnet for 'pieces'? kinda wondering if you think it might be happening about 4 times for every tire revolution - or 1 time. any sense of either of those?

is the trans pan dented?

whoa ! awesome find

yeah, I could see nozzle metal abrading and building up there, never really thought about it before. considering all the vehicles those nozzles visit and hanging around outside all the time - they also could easily leave something behind that might compromise a seal i guess.

^^ good point and, I now recall Kirby said Motul was good lube too. I didn't want to hog their time plus I needed to get on the road. I could have gabbed with those guys for a long time I guess. They seem to stay busy, lots of cars around, there was one guy waiting on an oil change on his '14 sedan and I had to wait when I arrived because Colin (main guy I've been emailing/calling with) was test driving a car. I wish they weren't so far away but, I also hope I don't 'need' them again. know what I mean? lol!

starting to see more complaints about headgaskets on the Forums, but, maybe that's to be expected as the cars are aging and are passing thru the hands of more owners (that may also be getting abused cars or, themselves are not familiar with a coupla quirks about Subaru cooling systems ?) timing chain, no belt to swap still, I think most of us would say the H6es are reliable over-all. Spark plug (DEF use NGK double platinum plugs) and maybe valve cover gasket replacement is a challenge - most other stuff as easy as the H4 to work on. Ours is an awesome 'medium highway cruiser'. I love to drive it. as for quirks, you can check the 'sticky' threads here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/ (FYI - our 03 H6 OBW has been reliable, but it does have low miles and it has experienced some of the issues mentioned in those threads mentioned above)

? not some residue from a sabotage attempt? what was the stuff you wiped off? just some zinc or 'plating' from the fill pipe or ?

I kinda wanted to take pics but, I kinda wanted to start my drive home (took an hour & 15 mins in heavy traffic) but I talked to the tech a little (thanx Kirby!) and he did retrieve the main shaft from the recycle bin - 2 teeth off the main 2nd gear, and a chewed-up driven gear of course. he showed me the syncrhos and they are not worn, he said everything else looked good. H says they see 3rd destroyed most often, second is after that. He claims the case flexes and allows the teeth to bang into each other - I guess the 6spd's case is one piece or has some stronger design??? (honestly, I can't help wondering if my habit of engine braking with 2nd didn't contribute to stress on the teeth? remeber, I have NO power mods and only 63K miles - but they are almost all 10 years of surface street miles - zooming between stop lights and around corners.) I was very concerned about them re-using my clutch too - given my use and doubting my driving technique, I just figured the clutch was done. Kirby said there was 60%+ left on it. So, maybe I'll get another 10 years out of it! they also saved my old axle so I can rebuild it. They , not unlike other mechanics, aren't interested in rebooting an axle. oh, another interesting data point - the fill was Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90. They charged me $15.75 a quart for it. So far, it 'feels' kinda in between the scrape-y notchiness of Extra-S and the butter-smooth feel of Redline Lightweight Shockproof. From initial drive, it seems fine. I would much rather have spent $2K on a rear sway bar ...and a lightweight flywheel.... and a tune....but, it just is what it is.

got my car back - they had it 4 weeks! (I guess Subaru dropped the ball on shipping one of the parts) anyaway, nice to have it back. I also wanted to report, they say they have had good luck with FEQ axles from worldpac? maybe FEQ is wortha shot if you just can't re-boot OEM. Amazon sells them.

^^ good info in 'the old days' if a range was listed, we'd set them tight figuring they'd wear larger.

boil the brake fluid and die? even professional truck drivers engine brake. No one is saying not to 'touch' the brakes - but if you 'ride' them, you are asking for trouble. Still, you live there , not me. I just don't think engine braking on descent will cook an engine. YMMV

not sure on their routing - maybe check the trans cooler lines that go up to the radiator.