1 Lucky Texan

on a 96, is the abs tone ring part of the axle?

any 5 year old car could have problems. Subarus are no exception.

well, there's no doubt good first-hand diagnosis by a trained tech with proper equipment has value. but, given some of the unknowns with a new-to-you used car - there's not much could be lost in double checking some common areas where confusion or laziness could lead to improper parts, fluids or installation techniques that might cause issues. Some things on these cars can be cheap aftermarket - like knock sensors, other stuff NEEDS to be OEM or specific suppliers like spark plugs. And, due to the AWD design of the transmission, some techs can be easily confused and drain/fill improper fluids. Front diffs drained and dry, or filled with transmission fluid, etc. not sure your level of DIY comfort, there are online guides and youtube videos showing how to service most of the areas we've discussed. You can also post a request in a new thread for a soob-experienced indie. mech. near your city. That might be a good place to take the car when you've exhausted the 'easy' stuff.

read a LOT of posts across multiple Forums for years - only ever read of one bad coil-on-plug type coil. very uncommon if your car has c.o.p. type for one to be bad. Swapping it with another cylinder to see if the misfire follows would bea good diagnostic procedure. if someone serviced the car and installed other than NGK plugs - I'd change those before any coil. if there is oil in the plug 'tubes', could be a leaky valve cover gasket. are you getting a CEL for misfires?

Impreza Outback? if the VIN starts with a 4, US, if with a J, Japan I think. I suppose a u-joint or other drivetrain problem could cause what you're sensing. Seems early for that kind of failure unless the car was abused.

from whom did you buy it? If there's any chance someone unfamiliar with Subarus worked on it before the sale - they could easily have used an incorrect fluid in the trans. 3 drain/fill/drive cycles with Subaru ATF-HP (or w'ever they call it) would get you around 85% new fluid I think (I might be a little off, you have a 5EAT right?) also, the car MUST have 4 tires that match, same brand/model/wear level. The more the tires vary from each other, the more likely you will have torque bind.

when you have the timing belt off - check all the idlers. None should wiggle and, ideally, they should not spin like skate wheels. the toothed idlers sometimes have very worn bearings.

keep your soob rotors unless they are below the minimum thickness marked on them or are 'damaged' in some way. Just be a little careful on your first 3-4 stops. The new pads will quickly wear-in to any waviness on the rotors. I like Centric Posiquiet ceramic pads. OEM pads are Akebono ceramic and very good - just a little pricey. probably any name-brand semi-metallic or ceramic pad will work.

how long since the last timing belt service?

when was the last timing belt system service? maybe it slipped a tooth? bad knock sensor will often not show a code and kills performance.

how long since timing belt system was serviced? could have slipped timing a tooth or 2. I would rule-out possible blocked exhaust. seems like w'ever happened had sudden on-set , but, as said, there are several possibilities.

many people rebuild the solenoid - parts are affordable. I've seen kits on ebay and there may be a coupla youtube videos that show how to do it.

some folks adjust the p-brakes at the handle, might have to take a look under the console? fairtax, is that possible?

what happened to the present rack?

I suppose there's an extremely unlikely internal failure of some type (what???) that might lock-up something internal to the trans or front diff - depending on 'what' is the trans issue. given your post though - I think it's fine. ATF will get overheated, but front diff is splash lubricated. viscous unit ??? I dunno

are you freakin' kidding me? a SWITCH went bad and they recall the cars? HAHAHAHAHAHA*cough*HAHAHAHAHA!!! my secondary air VALVES (not switch) have been frozen shut for 6 years I think now. crazy, I had to kill-off 14 DTCs with ecuflash. i DID keep my original ROM image, but, even if they replace the valves, what if they just freeze shut again in 4 years? got a link to info?

good point, if it's the NGK copper, probably done-in at 30-40K . But many newer models seem to come with the platinums installed - definitely check into that.

even temperature and tire pressure can affect mpg. I't s something that needs to be tracked over multiple tanks under very similar weather and road conditions. FYI - according to the time side of the maintenance schedule, you should have the timing belt system serviced.

I'm suggesting that, it's possible the failure you saw was not 'caused' by the mechanic but was he was 'set-up' to experience that failure due to an improperly rebuilt axle having been put on the car at some time in the past. it's only a possibility. Typcal rebuilt axles, while used commonly and fairly inexpensive, have notoriously poor lifespans and are assembled with little care. I don't think any of us can estimate your upcoming mpg, but if the car was repaired/reassembled properly, it should be fine. I DO have some doubts about the explanation you received for the squeaking you hear, but you should be OK driving home where you can have a different mechanic double-check the work that was done.

to me, security system could still be an issue.

try locking/unlocking with the key fob a coupla times. try starting N if automatic. try 'popping' the clutch and brake pedals. (press and release quickly) if headlights etc. don't work - fuse or fusible link bad? more details on the car and the exact problem and sequence of events would help - did the failure occur before or after the new battery was installed....

Appliance leveling stuff?

as it turns out, AWD is not comfortable putting the car back together with a torn boot so, I think they would if I asked or maybe signed-off on it, but I'm gonna pay them to install a new axle - good news is, they don't need to surrender a core on a new axle and I can rebuild the present one to swap in the other side sometime in the future.

that 'tripod' portion is held onto the end of the shaft with a snap ring - something else that 'could' have been left off by a worker rebuilding and axle. snap ring on the right, leaning on the inner 'cup'; I think it would take a HUGE amount of force to shear it off. that axle could be a rebuilt put on by a previous owner - or a collision center if the car was ever in a wreck on that corner.

I didn't know any details like that. parts are pricey - second gear is machined out of the main shaft, all the gears have to be pressed off, then on to the new shaft/gear. great, just my luck. Honestly, the &2k , while not a horrible price, is kinda burdensome right now - but many people have bigger repair bills than that so, I just have to suck it up. car ownership is not cheap in general, and having any kind of performance car is an additional risk. I still have maintenance to do on that car and my wife's car this month. When I was under my WRX draining the trans, I also saw I have questionable axles(one seems very worn, the other has a split boot - what do I do for 'quality' axles for my WRX?) - *sigh*. I also have a split forming in a strut mount - it just never ends. I really have no business owning a turbo rice rocket.