1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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possible the 'cone-shaped' washer at the top was put on upside down. -
well, we didn't see what you saw, but, not impossible it occurred from improper disassembly procedure. but, I have read of axles that had missing/bad retaining wire in the inner joint and the joint falls apart with very little force. This is MORE likely if the axle was a rebuilt. Could have been a 'trap' waiting to bite the next person working on the car.
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2006 WRX they are charging $500 to r&r, so that and any shipping/delivery charge would be on top of the used trans cost - for a trans that might have twice the mileage of mine. but yeah, it's a minefield of risky and expensive decisions.....ugh already committed to the repair but thanx for the thought - I briefly looked on-line at car-part (I think, maybe LKQ?) and there was a trans for $1650 listed in a town a coupla counties away. AWD even offered the possibility it might be cheaper for them to put in a trans they have leftover from a 6 speed swap they did for a guy. interestingly, they say the rest of the internals in my trans look fine? It is low miles so, maybe in the brief drive I took to get home, not much more damage occured? I dunno, this is way out of my experience/knowledge level. I learned that is isn't easy for big chunks to get from the trans to the drain plug magnet, much easier for front diff parts to wind-up on there. I'm glad it's at AWDTuning and not a dealership. Most respected non-dealership shop in this area. and really, it comes to an extra $200 per every year of ownership(but, I have very low miles). That's not horrible. A lady I work with had to have new trans put in her Mazda, it is half the age of my car I think. Bunch of Maszdas have bad transmissions evidently. It just seems like really bad luck. I can sya this, anyone tuning for more power should set aside some extra geeters to pay for a trans, or dogtooth 1st and second - maybe 3rd. They said they see more stripped 3rd gears than my second but ???? I dunno how to interpret any of that. I don't plan to drive like granny now, but I'm gonna be very nervous about every little noise for a while ! this is the shop's website for anyone reading here in the future; http://awdtuning.com/
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it's not like I'm putting 400hp down, I have NO power mods - wth!, stupid glass transmission no pics, I could ask but, what if they charge me! 2nd gear is cut on the shaft so it's a pricey unit, driven gear trashed too of course.
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2nd gear obliterated est. = $2000
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did you test in neutral? the drive shaft must be free to move. (uh - chock the front wheels!)
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maybe another mod was done like an under-drive pulley on the alt? or slipping belt - though, I'd expect squealing....check voltage at the battery before and after hitting the lock. with and wirtout the lights on. If it's a pulley slipping, voltage might drop with or without the lights on. If it's an abraded wire/bad ground somehwere, voltage might jump around but only with the lights on. inspect near the steering u-joint - maybe a wire harness is abraded?
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^^^, yeah, I've read the Crosstrek Hybrid is faster than the gas-only unit. while it may be fine for a college kid, if you frequently have passengers or gear/cargo and need to aggressively battle for merging from on-ramps, you may need more power available.
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man - these guys at AWD Tuning have a lot of 'services' I'd like to take advantage of - but, I'm not really in a position to buy anything cool - just need to get the car back on the road. (now, if some miracle occurs and they call with a not-too-bad number, a lightweight flywheel might find its way onto the car.... ...but yeah, a TGV delete, aircut valve delete, silicone intake, up/down pipe....a TUNE, ..etc. - there's no end once you start wishing!)
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Forester might be slightly easier to park. more important on used cars to find one with known good prior care and good present condition - the older the car, the less important the brand or model.
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squirt some starting fluid into the intake to see if it fires. If it does, could be a fuel delivery problem. as alluded to above, 'phase separation' is a real problem with ethanol/gas, I just don't know many details about it.
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not clutch, internal I expect to know more today. I wasn't a 'scheduled' customer and they work a short-shift on Saturday - they only confirmed it isn't a problem in the clutch area - kinda sounding like a gear or synchronizer? - maybe 3rd gear???? anyway, I don't like not being involved in the repair - but I'm beginning to be even more glad I didn't try working on this on my own - needs someone with experience that's beyond me. I have a feeling I'm about to spend every penny I saved doing my own maintenance and repairs......
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Are you buying new or used?
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boots at the top - snaked thru dig thru www.opposedforces.com and maybe you can find a wiring diagram?
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maybe there'd be a way to 'bypass' the original style connection? cutting the connector off and using some short hardline, short hose and 3 screw clamps? Camp the hardline in where the old connector was cut off, thene new hose, then the new hose to the pumps nipple? I don't remember what that all looked like, I had our 03 OBW's pump out once for inspection - might not be a way to clamp onto the pump's plastic fitting.
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AWD ? the final drive ratios of the trans and the rear diff MUST be the same.
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the plasic can crack, the fittings could fail to seal - hard to know. 'maybe' one approach would be to dry/clean everything thoroughly. Then, watch the top of the pump carefully while someone cycles the key from OFF to ON, stopping for 4-5 seconds in between. Don't start the car, just key cycle - the ECU should run the pump for a few seconds each time so, you'd get max flow from the pump while watching the suspect area.
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check cars101.com for specs Gen 2 Outbacks with weather package I think, certainly H6es with WP. Maybe Gen 2 VDC and LL Bean?
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does the car have any other problems? any work or wrecks before this began? any cutting-out at high speeds/loads? 2 cheap/easy things to try ; next time you feel it would experience the problem, crank the car holding the gas pedal on the floor. That triggers a 'clear flood' routing from the ECU and fuel will be cut while starting. If it starts 'better' maybe an injector is flooding a cylinder? as bove, next time you think it will fail, cycle the key OFF to ON (but not START) 4-5 times, waiting 3-4-5 seconfds between each click to OFF. That should cause the fuel pump to run and pressurize the system. IF the cars starts better, maybe there is a problem with loss of pressure - not sure on Foresters, but some outbacks have a problem on the fuel pump with crack metal caps and ruptured o-rings.
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sounds like it is in 'limp' mode which can be something as simple as a disconnected O2 sensor or MAF sensor. seems VERY unlikely you need 5 shift solenoids - maybe try a different mechanic? any damage or work done before the problem? is the pan dented on the transmission? hope you get some other replies.
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clutch all looks OK, they can feel a problem when the they spin the trans shaft - they are gonna open it up as it's 'possible' a repair could be cheaper than a full trans replacement. great
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do a search for 'frankenmotor' for some answers. I have no experience building one, but it's been discussed and you should find some info.
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it would be disappointing but, yeah, possible wheelbearing again if you say the symptoms are the same. I wouldn't 'rule out' something different - brake issues can sometimes do this, axles...etc. There have been 1 or 2 instance I've read of where a knuckle seemed to be the problem and a new or used one seemed to solve the bearings going bad. Or, if they had some new kid working the press or w'ever equipment they use, the procedure may have been botched and put stress on the new part.....? If you feel there's an issue with the dealership, you can get SOA involved but, sometimes it's just bad luck.
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got it to the shop, LOTS of soobs around!, nice guy Collin, we talked a little about my car . He said there's a divot inside where chunks of 3rd gear might collect without necessarily making it down to the magnet. called an hour after I got home, had a chance just to test drive the car, said it could be some odd clutch problem so, maybe tomorrow or saturday I'll no more. Talked about 2-3 other things while the car's there, but, need to focus on this clattering problem.
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^^^ what they said, minimal battery drain - for LONG storage, I guess just pull the neg batt. terminal to stop all dark current. But for a week or 2, maybe a month - leave it. you can get fobs from ebay. I forget, but one type of flashing is 'valet' mode.
