1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I'm no expert but, anyplace that sells recovery straps rated for pickup trucks 'should' have gear that will work. be careful - but remember you're towing it, not trying to lift it onto a container ship. Steering and braking are bigger concerns than getting it rolling I think. -
doesn't seem axle related at all, they aren't moving - even at the inner 'cups' and putting pressure on them /rolling wheels forward or back does not th cahnge the noise. at idle, there's a coupla clunks every 7-8 seconds or so - I can count 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10,clunk,clunk repeat. very much rear of the engine bay, no sound clutch pedal depressed. considering flat bed tow up to AWD Tuning in Flower Mound.
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yeah, I got it chocked so, I think I'll go try it with F wheels up
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I can turn on front wheel about an inch at the thread before all the slack is taken up. not sure, but that 'seems' a little excessive. I can grab the inner joint and juke it back and forth and up and down and, actually, the side (right) with the intact boot seems loose, looser than the side (L) with the torn boot. The R side axle was installed by a collision center so, not sure what brand it is. inner cup not green - looks bead-blasted, but it has those - 'scallops or troughs' and the boot on it has those extra semicircular rubber 'lobes' to 'reach in' and seal those troughs.
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I did spin the wheel, the other side spun - no noise, but I didn't look underneath or try hard to juke it CW/CCW/CW , etc. gonna go try that now I think
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I was wondering about that...was afraid to ask if that's possible in N. hmmm, I only have 2 jack stands - think it would be safe to idle the car front up, rear down to look at the axle? (in Neutral of course) I 'could' use the floor jack to lift the rear - rather not.
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oh, dang, posted OT in the thread, sorry. good to know about the driver's sides being OK. If parts don't arrive for airbags before xmas, I may get the rental.
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felt around iside the drain, didn't feel like I touched or moved any pieces, fingers cam out oily.... stuck a neodymium magnet on some pliers, ran it around the bottom of the drain pan. Got one more 'eyelaslh' piece. Honestly, they look like they could have been part of the plating on the drainplug threads. Very little 'sludge' on the magnet and just 4-5 *tiny* slivers.
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maybe inconclusive? I will try to get pics but, not seeing anything on the magnet bigger than an eyelash in total mass? long/skinny copper-ish peices? going to scrape it off on some paper - maybe pics later. dang - I thought I'd find chunks. regardless - now looks like a tow somewhere, not sure where? I have no indie soob shop very close.....
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Airbag - suppose you DO have a passenger? I guess they are parking the their cars and driving the Subaru-funded rentals. My wife's car has a passenger much of the time - they 'could' be told to get in the back seat....but we will have 4-5 people in it at Xmas time. I suppose 'soccer moms' that have the car loaded, or big families need it? And, are there no cars with driver airbags that have problems? I have no real details, just what they said.
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gonna try to get the car in the garage - if the trans is toast, another 30 feet of damage won't matter since I already drove it 1/2 mile. - need to get it level so I can jack it. pulling trans oil plug next I think. If the input shaft bearing grenades - do pieces go into the trans?
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the noise would be identical to this guy's noise I think (I assume the car is idling in neutral);
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I do see a lot of grease at the LS axle's inner joint. I was excited, at first. Checked engine oil, not empty and no odd particles. acc belts look good. Decide to idle it as I'm thinking I will probably need to get it in my garage. Starts fine, no sound. Start removing foot from clutch pedal - rattling. Confirmed, in neutral, rattling when clutch engaged, stops when pedal depressed. It's on-off right at the clutch 'engagement point'. so, I'm thinking a clutch disc issue or input shaft bearing???? it doesn't whine, it clatters/rattles. Should I look for chunks on the trans magnet next? I have no experience wrenching into the whole engine/clutch/trans area - could this be one of those clutch springs inside there? car has 63K miles. It gets 95% surface road use so, clutch is probably close to 'done' anyway (though I havn't had any noticeable slipping.) sounds bad when I'm driving - dunno if I could/should drive it to a shop.
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I like what you're saying, but this is a bad noise. Concerned it sounds worse under load and that's why it's loud when rolling. Getting light now, time to check fluids and look around for something obvious with axles. It's parked in my stupid sloping driveway - wish I had thought to pull my wife's car outta the garage and park it in there....sigh ...not thinking well after it happened I guess. Not gonna move it till I check some stuff.
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something happened about 1/2 mile from home this morning, immediately after a 'gentle' u-turn. Now there's a 'clattering' noise - seems kinda rhythmic as I went home at slow speed in 2nd gear.and related to road speed, not rpm No overheat, I don't 'think' there's loss of power.... too dark to look at anything yet. Hoping for axle problem, fearing transmission or, ....engine. The rhythmic part gets me - concerned it's valve train related.
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some folks have weak timing belt tensioners make a noise 'similar' to piston slap and rod bearing failure. There are even 3-4 youtube videos about tensioner noise.
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If I go for the rental thing, I'm keeping my cars at my house.
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if intake filter was changed recently - the tabs at the bottom of the box sometimes don't get seated and there can be a noise from that.(not positive that car is made the same way)
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if you have another car, hook up the vac gauge, start it, have a helper carefully block the exhaust with a length of wood ,push with a foot if needed, w'ever, to see what the gauge does? based on this, I thinkthe numbers you have DO indicate a possible problem - vacuum leak or blocked exhaust ? wonder if spraying some carb cleaner or starter fluid around the vacuum lines and intake manifold might show a vacuum leak? Dropping the exhaust might be best as suggested above.
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with the throttle open, vacuum will be less so, not sure that you're seeing a problem. I think the youtube video i watched showed the vacuum gradually reducing as pressure built-up in the exhaust, if THAT is your observation - could be a restriction. Knock sensor and IACV might be areas to investigate. EDIT; video below sems to suggest your vac numbers ARE too 'low'.(higher pressure than ideal)
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Akebono ceramic have been delivered on new soobs for a decade or 2. Semi-metallic are also a decent choice I think. I'd avoid drilled or slotted (except maybe for a dedicated or occasional race vehicle) as modern pads don't outgas as much. Subaru rotors are good and folks should try to keep them until damaged or worn down to the minimum thickness stamped on them. When it becomes time for me to get rotors, I will buy Centric. Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads are what I run on my OBW. Other name brand ceramic pads should be fine as well. Stay away from 'economy' pads.
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sure it's missing spark? squirt some starter fluid into the intake and see if it fires. check for slipped cam/crank timing. ECU will kill ignition I think if they disagree too much on timing. any DTCs stored? scan the ecu for pending codes (is 98 OBDII in your market?)
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sorry - OFF TOPIC - airbag related post. I was recently at a dealership (*gasp*) and when I was leaving, the service guy and the cashier lady both volunteered some interesting info. They saw that I had 2 cars affected by the recall - they said Subaru will pay for Enterprise rental cars so I can park my 'dangerous' cars. There's 2 ways they do it. I can park the car at the dealership (they hinted that it was a bad idea but, since they said they already have TWENTY FIVE CARS STORED THERE (!) I think they are low on space) or, I can park the car at my house, sign a piece of paper promising not to drive it, and drive a rental until parts are available. If you have the dealership keep the car, they have ZERO responsibility for it - theft, fire, damage etc. And, they aren't going to start it or top-off the battery. If you keep it at home, you could idle it every week or 2 at least. I haven't decided if I'm going to pursue that or not.
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what car? there was a recall for clip on gen 2 H6es to prevent CC cable interference.
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you might also ask here;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16
