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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. careful of that first 1 or 2 stops - I'm sure there's plenty of rust on the rotors - you might consider inspecting the brakes closely. calipers may not slide. look around for signs of rodent damage too. fluid changes would be a good idea.
  2. look at the trans pan - pushed in or dented? um - you're checking fluid level while idling right? best after moving shifter thru each gear and at operating temps.
  3. you may need a more sophisticated scan - freessm, or a dealer....? It does seem like a TCU issue. as for easy DIY - start by a careful inspection of wiring, maybe some rodents have chewed thru some harness somewhere or a wire has been pinched or pulled by maintenance, repair work or a wreck. There are even some odd problems that can be caused by blown brake lights and brake fuses. but, you may need a dealer or well-equipped shop to help with this one.
  4. got new tires installed on the WRX yesterday (Kumho ECSTA 4X II) after work - ordered them from DT last week to get a $75 Labor Day rebate.
  5. not positive ; some early 2000 soobs were cabin filter 'capable' I think but may not have been delivered with it installed - it was an option maybe?
  6. does it smell like coolant? if the car has a cabin air filter, could it be wet with condensation? drain tube clogged?
  7. check the other idlers to see if they are wobbly. or maybe a cam pulley is cracked? others may have better ideas.
  8. well, that fuel pump is a surprise to me. Does it seem original? and I don't like how that TB seems to be walking off the front of the crank sprocket. at this point, I'm wondering about fuel pressure, maybe find a way to measure it. Or perhaps someone knows a way to test that fuel pump on the bench?
  9. a large vacuum leak may let in enough unmetered air that the ECU has exhausted it's ability to compensate. Or a fueling problem is present - failing pump, etc. you may need someone to log live data and do other diagnostic procedures to find the problem. I'ts common fro cruise control and traction control and other similar systems to be deactivated on modern cars when a DTC is set.
  10. CEL could easily be related to the exhaust work if there's leakage or disassembly - as said above, get the code. only other thing I'm gonna add is, the thermostat needs to be OEM style;
  11. I was told by a collision shop guy once that they sometimes put a jack under a special thing that goes in the latch and force doors upwards to 'adjust' alignment.!!!!! I didn't like the way that sounded but...? I think they also have a bar with a device that fits into the latch they can 'lever' a door up with. And there are ways to use shimes. usually, you need new pins and bushings but, I guess there are a few ways to 'rig' a repair.
  12. if it fires with the fluid - points to fueling problem, something making the ECU inhibit injector firing , or no fuel pressure, 'maybe' bad fuel? etc. nothing wrong with checking cam/crank timing. scan for codes too.
  13. will it fire if you spray starting fluid in the intake? fuel pump cap/o-ring problem?
  14. if those wheels are 'upsized' in width, that also needs to be calculated into the issue. roughly, you want 1/2 the difference in width subtracted from the offset, so, if you are going from 6.5" 48 offset, a 7" 40 offset isn't crazy - BUT, that means the inside and outside of the rim are ~ 1/4" closer to suspension parts or wheel liners.
  15. oh yeah - he's right - there isn't ENOUGH offset so, more likely to be rubbing on the fender. duh. Spacer will make things worse I think!
  16. no, I think you first analysis is right on, hiring someone else to do the work? - much better to have them source the part, or at least, buy it locally so returns are easier. Even more important if you don't have a spare vehicle.
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