1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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wheel bearings have a much higher failure rate than diffs, but nothing wrong with a close inspection of everything in the driveline. -
very odd, never read of something like this I don't think. any other strange behavior? is the car new to you? any work, mods done or wrecks before this started? you may need to get freezeframe or live data. If you have a smartphone or a laptop, there may be inexpensive ways to get data from the car yourself.
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odd - try another shop to read the ECU. maybe do a battery disconnect and see if it clears the CEL?; remove neg. batt terminal, step on the brake pedal to remove any slight residual charge, wait a few minutes, reconnect.
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if it has never been done, the timing belt system is 5 years overdue. The schedule calls for 105K miles OR 105 months. definitely check for slipped timing. Even if it was done previously, it may not have been done with proper attention to the idlers and tensioner. The toothed idler especially is prone to failure. I wouldn't rule out the possibility of having multiple problems based on those trouble codes either.
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double check the battery connections - especially the ground connection. In fact, refreshing ALL ground connections would be a good idea on a 20 year old car. Battery cables could be bad as well. consider having the ECU scanned for trouble codes (usually free at a parts store) post any codes here.
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it isn't impossible for the ECU to fail, just extremely rare. They can be bought from junkyards, car-part.com, LKQ, maybe folks parting-out wrecks, etc. you might consider posting in a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near your city - someone may know a good subaru mechanic where you could get a second diagnosis.
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cam position sensor? but, not sure why no CEL for it. ECU seems to be cutting fuel for some reason. maybe someone will have some idea what to try next.
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may as well change the cabin air filter while you're in there. thanx for any pics!
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yeah, may not help but.....; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134391-very-dim-illumination-lights/?hl=illumination http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/135636-electrical-gurus/?hl=illumination http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134810-wtb-legob-illumination-module-83023ae01a/?hl=illumination also; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/51855-need-electrical-help.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/35789-dash-illumination.html I'd be interested in anything you discover.
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^^^ what he said, easy to crack the pump. also, did the trans pan get dented? even a little? easy to mess stuff up on the other side of the pan.
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yeah, I went thru that for a while, thankfully, ours has been behaving recently. I still haven't put my eyes on it. I have one ready to swap though. It may be behind the radio, some say pass side, some say driver's. I have an old thread about it somewhere....
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man I had a lot of fiddly issues with my WRX tb, 5 belt guides and left-side cams that wouldn't stay put , but, it's running well and I love it. good job!
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I think one of the tests you can do with a vacuum gauge is to watch for flutter that a sticking valve might cause. but it is VASTLY more likely she has a tune-up related problem as opposed to an internal engine issue. I have seen a video and pics of 'dropped' valve guides on some engines, I think it's possible under severe abuse/lack of maintenance I guess....?
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plasti-dip?
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Discount Tire stores and DT Direct are having some Labor Day sales on tires, wheels. I am gonna try to swing by my local store and order some some tires for my WRX and see if I can get a $75 rebate/prepaid card.
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well, I am a Subaru fan but, $1500 is not that much to get your current vehicle in shape. That's like, what? 4 or 5 payments on a new car? The '08 Soob could need struts that might cost you nearly that at a dealership I'd recommend you find a local shop to do a pre-purchase inspection on the Subaru. Post your city and request in a new thread - someone may know a good indie mech or reliable dealership. and +1 on timing belt system service - the toothed idler can self-destruct - not good.
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^^ good post. batt disconn. trick cured high-speed hard downshifting on our last road trip. Some folks have cured delayed shifting with Trans-X additive - you might consider it if you do any fluid changing. Uh - did your car get a timing belt system service yet? It's WAY overdue if it was never done.
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you might look around at www.opposedforces.com for a drawing of what the seal looks like - I have no experience with sedans. or, a collision center might be able to fix this for you.
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stupid dealer - you want that fixed, or, while not recommended, at least a resister 'hack'. I'd get it fixed. The shielding is to prevent noise creating false signals that may imitate knock events. get some 'clumps' from a cat litter box to place under/near the car. Also, if you know someone that keeps a snake, or maybe call a local zoo, put a snake 'skin shed' under the car. Refresh as necessary. Get a rubber snake to put under the car. Fox or other predator urine might work too. Cycle thru them so those 'prairie flounders' don't get acclimatized to any one method.
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blend door in the heat/a/c system ?
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engine from a wreck might have half the miles of your existing engine, do the full timing belt system service and upgraded head gaskets.
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this is unlikely to be the rear diff, and if your rear diff is LSD, it is a sealed unit with its own separate fluid so, the gear oil in there will not affect the viscous unit. there have been people with the odd driveshaft u-joint or carrier bearing or even front axle problem that can somewhat mimic torque bind. And of course, running non-matching tires will induce TB. tires must be the same brand/model/size and near each other in w ear.
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some of the newer cars have a hatch height 'memory' function - I guess to help folks avoid damage if they have a low garage ceiling or opening? anyway - I'm not sure a '15 has that function but you could look for that in the manual or search the internet.
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if there's no dripping or signs of it blowing-back under the car - maybe you failed to move the shift lever thru each gear after the fill? - and you MUST check the level while idling. careful not to overfill - the lines are only about a pint apart - not a quart like engine oil. it's 'possible' for that fluid to get pushed into the radiator.....not likely.
