1 Lucky Texan

THANK YOU for posting this!

1. I wouldn't do all 4 - just the bad one 2. An in-between option would be to take your hub and new parts down to a shop and pay them to do it with their hydraulic press.

my solar shield is at my house! wow way to go RA and Fedex !

what brand of belt? There have been some kits sold with a 'generic' belt that some have reported has a short life-span. Gates or Mitsuboshi or OEM would be my choices. check all the bolts, I have read a coupla posts about stripped bolt holes in the tensioner bracket. you can run the engine with the timing covers off - maybe see how smoothly the belt runs?

ordered! thank you!

cheaper than ebay even after shipping! and, there's probably a 5% coupon code somewhere for RA. wonder which size works with my WRX? I figure the small one but????

^^^ great post, may be right on, especially if the car starts and runs well after cooling off. not a bad idea to align the marks and double-check timing - do a tooth count, but, if it runs well cold, could very well be cam or crank pos. sensor is intermittent with temperature.

^^^ kinda seems like slipped timing when the belt was replaced the first time, was the tensioner or any idlers changed? the toothed idler is often what goes first. If re-using a tensioner, it needs to be compressed V E R Y slowly too.

I think 05 began the 5EAT auto trans - seems to be robust. older vehicles like that are gonna depend a LOT on prior care and current condition. Maybe start by finding a mechanic to do a prepurchase inspection on what you find. Heck, if there's a local shop that services a lot of soobs, you might even get a lead on one of his customers who's selling.

hmm, I guess it sounds too loud to be a shifting brake pad? look at suspension bushings take a look at the diff mounts.

any spare fuse will work

hmm..maybe if the TPS has a dead/intermittent area just above idle - the ECM couldn't determine how much fuel is being demanded - but I'd expect he issue could be duplicated while parked. use an analog ohm meter to check the resistance of the TPS - it should be smooth thru its range.

hmmmm....I'd be interested in reading what the 'gurus' say but, I can't help thinking this could be an IACV issue. have you attached a gauge and SEEN the FP drop?

some Imprezas (but I think newer models than yours ???) will leak fuel at cold temps - ever see/smell fuel on top of the engine around fuel lines? maybe try tightening/replacing fuel hose clamps. Also, a 95 could have bad plug wires, even if it's the second set! - maybe moisture on cool mornings is shorting high voltage ?

$16 TOTAL at Amazon; https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-80921-8370-Accessory-Drive/dp/B00L2OGZAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470873737&sr=8-1&keywords=809218370

wow - that's pretty much the definition of catastrophic failure. I suppose, at one level, it's hard not to consider a trans swap - if fo no other reason you may be able to find one with half the miles of the one you have now - but you STILL would need to fix the other damage so - yeah, I agree with 86B'man and suggest starting with the known problems and see how the trans is.

great! get that timing belt system serviced - major $$$$ if it fails.

yeah - I can believe 'something' came apart; axle most likely, flexplate or u-joint or front diff - OK, but the transmission? very rare from what I've read, maybe one-off.

no misbehavior so, it's kinda low priority right now. I did find an H7LL bulb at Amazon - supposedly long life and built to heavy duty specs. If this seems like a bulb issue, I may get those. I rarely drive my WRX at night, so, not really worth short lifespan for more output.

any recent service? sometimes the wrong fluids get drained/filled - might take a few miles/days to destroy something. pull drain plugs and look for 'chunks' ?

some folks have had cracked flexplates......

thanx

^^ cool - but, seemed like there was still a lot of rattling in neutral?

well, it can get complicated knowing exactly what to do, but here are some points to consider; there are options, depending on what you already own and your level of 'need'/commitment as for reading 2-3 'levels' of information from the car's ECU. If you have a laptop, there are cables and software you can use to do quite a lot of examination of the ECU's settings and parameters - $$ to $$$ and moderate to heavy in difficulty/learning curve, but close to a dealership in utility. There are handheld code readers with various levels of utility, $$ (mostly replaced by the below...) There are wireless adapters paired to smartphones. $ to $$ , these will be the best 'value' IF you already own the smartphone. Torque is the most popular app. The adapters are often called ' elm327 ' blue tooth adapters. Given that use of any of the above devices may very well point to a system that still needs the attention of a pro, spending much money and time on them might be better spent at the repair shop. But, once you learn what you're doing (and let's face it, in addition to folks here on this Forum, there are youtube videos and other Net resources) you could use the information to do more of your own repairs AND perhaps help family and friends with their cars. So, if, for example, you discovered your timing was retarded to the max, or fuel trims were double digits - that info might lead you to certain sensors that need further testing or even replacement.

many folks with older soobs had had to replace knock sensors. Suppose they 'lose sensitivity' or otherwise have intermediate modes of operation before complete failure? (cheap sensors from ebay seem to work well for people, clean the mount point with a wire brush, dress the cable in the same direction as the stock unit and don't overtorque it) how did the old plugs look? presence of carbon buildup in combustion chambers could raise compression and yield better-running results from higher octane fuel.