1 Lucky Texan

sometimes you pay local taxes from Amz, never did that from RA (yet) I've bought from both and been very satisfied. Look on-line for a 5% off code for RA. I will say, Amazon has a dead simple return procedure that works very well, most of the time, if something is wrong with the order.

P0420 ? start by looking for an exhaust leak. Then, make sure all maintenance is up-to-date. not many 'mechanic in a can' products work (there may be 2-3-4 exceptions) - just make certain you can get your money back and it won't harm anything.

RockAuto is best if you get several items from the same warehouse. And make certain the part has a US flag - sometimes parts are for European model cars. I've had about the same amount of disappointment from RA as Amz - and very, very little over-all from either. Advance Auto sometimes has good rebates for first-time users of their on-line site.

P0420 is a tough code to troubleshoot. On an older car - you'd definitely want to confirm there's no exhaust leaks or overlooked maintenance/tune-up type of problems before spending $100s of dollars on sensors or cat convs.

has the cabin air filter been changed? I suppose there's a remote possibility of it deteriorating and blocking the drain. otherwise - as said above, mold or insect nest blocking the drain.

can you describe the problem you're having and why you think the compressor and H tube need replacing? have you read here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/127980-diy-ac-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-for-5-or-less15-m/

hmmm....just a longshot but - make sure the battery is disconnected and try the resistance test again?

hmmm...could the LSD rear diff in the 'weather' package be the difference? no one has ever mentioned an external difference in anything I've read - just internal. It says 3.0 liter, maybe it isn't length - but axle dimaeter for more strength?

for a one time deal - sure. But a small tailer or borrowing a friends truck, or renting the HD truck, or paying for delivery are all options for more substantial/frequent delivery. You don't need racks. Just cut a 10' 2x4 into two 5' lengths. Place them across your racks as far apart as possible and close to the actual rack supports. Tie them securely to the rack with some good rope. Then you can tie your lumber onto the 2x4's. The reason I say you should use 5' lengths is so that they project 6" beyond the plywood or drywall on both sides to facilitate tying things down. Of course, you should start and stop smoothly and try not to "jerk" the load or drive in high winds etc..

ABS releases pressure - won't apply it. might be time to think about hiring a new mechanic.

if you can believe the comments - this guy says his winoweld fix has lasted 2 years so far; here's a coupla videos;

I don't recall what car you have, but if you google subaru a/c condensation drain and click images - probably get a good idea of wher to look for a clog.

sure seems like an ignition problem.

try googling making bushings with windoweld - even a youtube search. maybe you can determine if you want to try it.

maybe condensation drain is clogged?

the 'dirty' way to do those is use 3M WindoWeld (or w'ever it's called) read of someone that cleaned the mount bushing area, supported the diff so it was centered in the bushings, used pieces cut from a hockey puck (I think) stuffed in there, and squirted the windoweld in - he used some fender washers or something to hold everything in place during curing.

^^^ good ideas - I have read of an issue with rust/debris caught between the rotor and hub causing oscillation. worn inner tie rods can exarcerbate a bad tire or brake problem. Look for broken caliper bolts/brackets too. But, 'warped' rotors are most often caused by uneven pad deposits, occasionally by altered tempering of rotor alloy(cementite), they are almost never 'potato chopped' nor have significant non-parallelism. if all the above issues have been ruled-out, one thing to try is a bedding in procedure (you MUST do any bed-in with the understand that the car can NEVER be held at a stop with the pads when the brakes are heated-up, be certain traffic, cops and road conditions will alow a very good cool-down run) . An easy 'moderately aggressive ' one is , maintain 30-40 mph and left-foot-drag the brake. maintain speed, drag the brake for 3-4 blocks, then, cool down with no stopping for 1/2 mile. If you MUST come to a complete stop - use the hand brake for the final 2mph and to hold the car. If, after a bedding-in routine the problem is WORSE - that points to bad rotor conditions that are unlikely to be solved by cutting (cementite) If the problem is better but not solved, a repeat or a more aggressive bedding-in may be required. good reading at StopTech, here's one on warped brakes - http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

likely - many folks report a hooting noise or similar when the system is overcharged.

any recent charging of the a/c system?

there's likely 3-4 problems that might lead to this behavior - and I am certainly no expert. when you say it seems to work after being off "for a bit" - would that be long enough for ice to melt if the coil were frozen-over? has the cabin air filter been serviced? any correlation with the problem showing-up when stopped or in extremely slow traffic? any large amounts of red dust near the compressor? if you have lost 'some' refrigerant, the pressure switch that is supposed to protect the system may be right at the edge of triggering - such that it is intermittent. a pro can check things out with some gauges, vacuum the system and otherwise check for leaks and a proper charge. Some people have done well attacking a/c problems on their own so, you might read here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html

compression test might be in order. you could also try switching to a 'high mileage' oil.

scan for codes? some folks have had crank position sensors intermittently fail at temp.

well, if everything is normal, disconnecting should immediately stop cycling the fans and relays and solenoids, etc.

it isn't clear to me but, you know those green test connectors should be unplugged right?

is there spring in the relief valve that could be broken? I read of an RS owner that found his OPRV stuck open. anyway - good luck with it