1 Lucky Texan

this recent thread may be helpful - and you might try searching for others; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159313-pulled-the-heads-advise-on-how-they-look-please/

you may have witnessed 2 problems, not just one - but, the overheating needs to addressed - quite likely a head gasket is leaking combustion chamber pressure into the coolant passages. It's normal for the radiator cap to allow atmospheric pressure to push coolant back into the radiator as the car cools - but , your radiator cap 'could' have a problem, related to it's age if original, or - perhaps it's a poorly selected aftermarket unit. I wouldn't discount the possibility of some type of 'stop leak' or similar additive having been added to the cooling system as an attempt by a previous owner to deal with the overheating. It should be mentioned also, that OEM Subaru thermostats have a larger wax capsule than many aftermarket thermostats - that 'could' also be a problem.

I've used a brake pad a a lever to push the piston in. I've used a c-clamp, even my thumbs on my old Honda, and I've used large waterpump/channellock pliers.

feel good about the timing? you must use the tab with the dash/line at the back of the crank sprocket - NOT the arrow/triangle at the front. try some starting fluid sprayed into the intake when cranking. maybe a compression test.

your rotors are quite likely just fine - but we can't see them. Subaru brake gear is good stuff - pads are Akebono ceramic so, OEM would be fine, but most people save a little for similar performance with name-brand aftermarket pads. The Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic i use on our 03 have been long-lasting, quiet and perform like OEM for less $$. There is a minimum thickness stamped on the rotors, edge or center area, somewhere. Keep the stock rotors if you can. you might check RockAuto.com and Amazon for prices too. search this forum for DIY maintenance threads that might help. sometimes you can find Youtube videos that are helpful.

there were some intermittent crank position sensors on older soobs that would fail with temp. any codes stored? post any set or 'pending' codes if you can scan the ECU. Or, swing by a parts store and have them scan it - maybe a useful code is recorded.

Not sure if this is already posted here somewhere, and, perhaps a mod would like to move it but, user plainom at subaruoutback.org has a slideshow of the center viscous LSD in a 5spd. if you need a password; centredifferential http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/plainom2/slideshow/MT CENTER DIFF PRESENTATION more info about this here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/216090-manual-tranny-center-differential-dissassembly-incl-viscous-coupler-slideshow.html

pic is a little small for me but - just mentioning, make sure it's the rear main and not that oil separator plate.

bad PCV valve 'could' let some crankcase fumes get burned - but that's a longshot. Could be something related to the emmissions code I guess, carbon canister fumes getting through a stuck-open purge valve???? I dunno, seems odd. could be just a bad motor mount as said above if the car is otherwise running well.

dang! I thought that combo would be worth searching for in a used car for my wife. Still, FB with 4EAT might be a pretty good combo. or there could be a CVT in our future!

^^^^ OK, this kinda relates to a similar question I posted elsewhere; it seems you 'might' get an FB engine attached to a 5EAT? , like, 2011,2012,2013 Foresters?

My MIL's 2011 Forester is ej, but it's PZEV so, maybe there was some crossover? I thought FB came in 2012 for the US Forester? around that time - you might look at www.cars101.com for specifics. EDIT - she has a 2010 so, other info here is correct.

possible combination of bad knock sensor and/or running regular gas - the manual says to run premium. if you run a tank or 2 of premium and the problem gets better, might be time to check for a bad/cracked knock sensor - maybe also pull plugs and see if they are carbon coated - carbon build-up in the CCs could lead to this. a:f ratio could have been rich for a while, causing carbon build-up.

steady bubbles are not good - I suppose you try th HG chemical test - I've read it works best when there are steady bubbles. But, the only source for continuing string of bubbles would be the combustion chamber i think? the rad cap you got most resembles which of these;

oil might be from leaking pressure switch. Not positive but, it may be in the area of the alternator? have you confirmed it has a working, OEM-style thermostat? it matters.

maybe check the rear bushings on the lower control arms. make sure the stub axles are seated completely.

were all 4 plugs normal looking and similar for wear? you could attach a vacuum gauge - there are guides online for the 3-4 issues it can help diagnose. Maybe monitor it to look for differences when the engine is running well vs poorly. check grounds and charging system too. seems to me, the 2 things that might change with brake pedal pumping are vacuum and electrical load. (possibly vibration - maybe a wire in a harness is intermittent or shorting?)

the split boot I tried decades ago on a Honda failed quickly. maybe they're better now?

the one time I varied from name-brand ceramic, it WAS some close-out Wagner pads - they were terrifying and I yanked them out when they were only 1/3 or so used. false economy right there, I guess some consumable parts are made cheaply for folks selling/flipping cars. Or, they're afraid you'll go down the street to a competing parts store to save a buck.

yikes! - good call! thanx

?????? is it pushing coolant out to the overflow? maybe an issue with bad rad cap and/or incorrect thermostat. OEM-style is required. (there are 2-3 aftermarket sources with the larger wax capsule, Stant makes one)

used pump from a wreck will be fine - despite your symptoms, soob PS pumps are long-lasting. if your pump is bad - that's just bad luck. they DO let air into the system past old o-rings or cracked hoses on occasion - if your fluid in the reservoir is bubbling/foaming while idling - that's bad.

never run 'economy' pads. stay with name brand ceramic or semi-metallic (I run Centric posiquiet ceramic) NJ huh? make CERTAIN the brake components are rust-free, smooth and lubricated.

rebuilt half axles are notoriously unreliable - that would be the first suspect.

if the 'dead spots' feel like they are always in the same position of the steering wheel - could be the steering column coupling - it is a type of u-joint and can sometimes begin to bind.