1 Lucky Texan

?????? is it pushing coolant out to the overflow? maybe an issue with bad rad cap and/or incorrect thermostat. OEM-style is required. (there are 2-3 aftermarket sources with the larger wax capsule, Stant makes one)

used pump from a wreck will be fine - despite your symptoms, soob PS pumps are long-lasting. if your pump is bad - that's just bad luck. they DO let air into the system past old o-rings or cracked hoses on occasion - if your fluid in the reservoir is bubbling/foaming while idling - that's bad.

never run 'economy' pads. stay with name brand ceramic or semi-metallic (I run Centric posiquiet ceramic) NJ huh? make CERTAIN the brake components are rust-free, smooth and lubricated.

rebuilt half axles are notoriously unreliable - that would be the first suspect.

if the 'dead spots' feel like they are always in the same position of the steering wheel - could be the steering column coupling - it is a type of u-joint and can sometimes begin to bind.

if no one knows, you might dig around www.cars101.com for the specifications of various year models but, keep in mind, the older the car, generally, the more likely a failure could occur out in the boonies.

the front diff uses GL-5, viscosity should be in your manual. it fills through its dipstick tube - took on the right (US pass) side - low and rearward. one of these helps when filling;

check here; http://www.svxworldforums.com/ http://www.andysautosport.com/auto_parts/subaru_svx.html http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ here's one interesting thread at NASIOC; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2305389&highlight=svx+transmission others; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2299534&highlight=svx+transmission http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2331112&highlight=svx+transmission http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1579052&highlight=svx+transmission you can find more threads there on the SVX. seems like you need a lot of money to keep these on the road and there's almost no aftermarket parts available.

sounds like you jumped in and took off down the highway immediately after a computer reset - the car may need 2-3-4 "drive cycles" to re-learn the sensors and complete the monitors. coupled with possibly phase-separated ethanol-laced fuel - 'could' equal poor performance. you might scan for pending codes , you may also need live data to see what's up. no signs of rodent damage to any wiring?

2 strangers have approached me about buying my 06 WRX AND my wife has had guys ask about selling her 03 Outback ! it's weird. The guys interested in the Outback were already driving soobs - I guess it s the H6 they seem interested in? I really don't want to ever get rid of either of my current soobs - maybe when my wife demands a new car, I'll drive the Outback and park the WRX more. maybe slap a few mods on it.

consider a trans from a wreck - might have fewer miles too, LKQ or car-part.com final drive MUST match rear diff of course.

it's easy for people to get the drains/fill tubes confused, even reported that a dealership did that once! If you think that's part of the problem, find a way to get ALL the trans fluid out. Some people have used 2 buckets and the lines to the trans cooler to let the trans pump suck in new fluid and spit out the old. Because there's fluid left in the TC, even the frquently advised 3 drain/fill cycles could still leave 15% 'bad' fluid in there. front diff and engine oil might be suspect too if someone else has done those fluids. check www.opposedforces.com , dig around and you find part numbers.

did the car come from an area known for salting roads? how's the rust underneath? is it losing brake fluid? an 07 should be fine, but some older , rusty soobs develop brake line leaks above the fuel tank.

220,000 miles? maybe stretched valve stem and now valve is burned? broken ring land?

independent mechanic seems good, I'd stay with him I think. never read of any widespread MC problems across 3 forums and 13 years of Subaru obsession. many people complain of soob brakes feeling mushy - some have installed new caliper hose and even MC braces to reduce firewall flex. also, don't run 'economy' pads - stay with name brand or OEM ceramic, or maybe name brand semi-metallic.

is a lot of coolant being pushed into the overflow? that's indicative of bad headgaskets. be sure to check coolant level in the radiator - don't trust the level in the o'flow. be careful of hot fluid. some older subarus have partially clogged radiators and benefit from new rads.

you could try doing 3 drain/fill/drive cycles on the transmission. make sure to check its fluid level while idling.

coolant will smell sweet-ish, like toasted marshmallows. you can heat a nail held in pliers with a torch, then touch a coupla drops of oil, coolant, etc. and compare the smell.

neutral safety stuff is different - maybe a clutch switch circuit needs to be 'fooled'?

do the crank sprockets have the same 'tab' pattern? anyway - there could be some wiring harness issues.

check the large hose from the IACV to the underside of the intake. check with a vacuum gauge sometimes, spraying starter fluid, brake cleaner - even propane around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses could help find the vacuum leak - the idle will smooth-out.

isn't the SVX known for trans issues? seems like I recall that. maybe check at NASIOC too.

like fairtax said, comp/leakdown test across all cylinders might be a good idea. Also, dropping the exhaust to look for a 'dropped' valve guide might be a goo idea. i have heard of the guides shifting around and that might be the cause of the intermittent/variable symptoms you are having.

not sure - maybe like this? http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=164726&d=1381007394

also try lifting/rocking the tire up-down (12 o'clock - 6) there should be no movement. Compare to the other side. but yes, after all the reading and 2 bad bearings - they are inconsistent in symptoms/failure modes.