1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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if no one knows, you might dig around www.cars101.com for the specifications of various year models but, keep in mind, the older the car, generally, the more likely a failure could occur out in the boonies. -
the front diff uses GL-5, viscosity should be in your manual. it fills through its dipstick tube - took on the right (US pass) side - low and rearward. one of these helps when filling;
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check here; http://www.svxworldforums.com/ http://www.andysautosport.com/auto_parts/subaru_svx.html http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ here's one interesting thread at NASIOC; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2305389&highlight=svx+transmission others; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2299534&highlight=svx+transmission http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2331112&highlight=svx+transmission http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1579052&highlight=svx+transmission you can find more threads there on the SVX. seems like you need a lot of money to keep these on the road and there's almost no aftermarket parts available.
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sounds like you jumped in and took off down the highway immediately after a computer reset - the car may need 2-3-4 "drive cycles" to re-learn the sensors and complete the monitors. coupled with possibly phase-separated ethanol-laced fuel - 'could' equal poor performance. you might scan for pending codes , you may also need live data to see what's up. no signs of rodent damage to any wiring?
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2 strangers have approached me about buying my 06 WRX AND my wife has had guys ask about selling her 03 Outback ! it's weird. The guys interested in the Outback were already driving soobs - I guess it s the H6 they seem interested in? I really don't want to ever get rid of either of my current soobs - maybe when my wife demands a new car, I'll drive the Outback and park the WRX more. maybe slap a few mods on it.
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consider a trans from a wreck - might have fewer miles too, LKQ or car-part.com final drive MUST match rear diff of course.
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it's easy for people to get the drains/fill tubes confused, even reported that a dealership did that once! If you think that's part of the problem, find a way to get ALL the trans fluid out. Some people have used 2 buckets and the lines to the trans cooler to let the trans pump suck in new fluid and spit out the old. Because there's fluid left in the TC, even the frquently advised 3 drain/fill cycles could still leave 15% 'bad' fluid in there. front diff and engine oil might be suspect too if someone else has done those fluids. check www.opposedforces.com , dig around and you find part numbers.
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did the car come from an area known for salting roads? how's the rust underneath? is it losing brake fluid? an 07 should be fine, but some older , rusty soobs develop brake line leaks above the fuel tank.
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220,000 miles? maybe stretched valve stem and now valve is burned? broken ring land?
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independent mechanic seems good, I'd stay with him I think. never read of any widespread MC problems across 3 forums and 13 years of Subaru obsession. many people complain of soob brakes feeling mushy - some have installed new caliper hose and even MC braces to reduce firewall flex. also, don't run 'economy' pads - stay with name brand or OEM ceramic, or maybe name brand semi-metallic.
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is a lot of coolant being pushed into the overflow? that's indicative of bad headgaskets. be sure to check coolant level in the radiator - don't trust the level in the o'flow. be careful of hot fluid. some older subarus have partially clogged radiators and benefit from new rads.
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you could try doing 3 drain/fill/drive cycles on the transmission. make sure to check its fluid level while idling.
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coolant will smell sweet-ish, like toasted marshmallows. you can heat a nail held in pliers with a torch, then touch a coupla drops of oil, coolant, etc. and compare the smell.
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neutral safety stuff is different - maybe a clutch switch circuit needs to be 'fooled'?
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do the crank sprockets have the same 'tab' pattern? anyway - there could be some wiring harness issues.
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check the large hose from the IACV to the underside of the intake. check with a vacuum gauge sometimes, spraying starter fluid, brake cleaner - even propane around the intake manifold and vacuum hoses could help find the vacuum leak - the idle will smooth-out.
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isn't the SVX known for trans issues? seems like I recall that. maybe check at NASIOC too.
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like fairtax said, comp/leakdown test across all cylinders might be a good idea. Also, dropping the exhaust to look for a 'dropped' valve guide might be a goo idea. i have heard of the guides shifting around and that might be the cause of the intermittent/variable symptoms you are having.
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not sure - maybe like this? http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=164726&d=1381007394
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also try lifting/rocking the tire up-down (12 o'clock - 6) there should be no movement. Compare to the other side. but yes, after all the reading and 2 bad bearings - they are inconsistent in symptoms/failure modes.
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I'd try using a propane torch to warm-up the bolts, then spray them with a penetrant (Kroil, PB Blaster or even home-made ATF/Acetone 50:50 - careful not to catch fire!) When the bolt cools from the spray - maybe some liquid will be pulled in. Then, if you have no luck budging the bolt, try tightening slightly first, then re-try removal. but, I really don't see how Blue Devil can work from the coolant side of this type of HG leak.
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someone did that for a reason so, be prepared to troubleshoot the system and repair properly.
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That might be a good start , I don't know if the factory service manual might have some tests in it you could perform. It may, you can usually find FSMs on-line if you search around.
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take the knuckle and new bearings to an auto machine shop and have them remove the old and press in the new bearings. No HBAs until about model year 06 I think. so many things 'could' cause front end shake; check inner tie rods for certain. Sometimes sticking calipers can drag. move tires front-to-back see if it's a bad tire. all 4 tires MUST be the same model and close in wear-level or AWD/drivetrain problems can occur. search here for questions about specific systems on the car - lots of threads on common questions. RockAuto, Amazon, and online dealers like subarugenuineparts.com or fredbeansparts.com and others are good sources for parts.
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hmmm...try locking and unlocking the car with the fob. also, try 'popping' the brake pedal - quick step-on/step-off - a coupla times.
