1 Lucky Texan

since we seem to be into the odd stuff now - you might scan for pending codes. clear the ECU, try to start, scan again for what code comes back.

hmmm---if you cycle the key from OFF, to ON a few times, the fuel pump should run for a coupla seconds and fully pressurize the rails. Dot that cycle 4-5 times, then got to START. see if there's any difference. If it's better, maybe, for some weird coincidental reason, there is a fuel issue. did all the gross oil-gunk get cleaned off the plug wire boots? maybe losing some high voltage energy with arcing in there. if you think the system is flooded - try starting with your foot holding the gas pedal on the floor while cranking (don't pump) When the pedal is on the floor AND starting are detected by the ECU - it switches to a 'clear flood' mode and shuts-off the injectors. (but, I'd have expected a fuel smell from the tail pipe if it was flooded?)

sure there's no hose for the IAC?

check that big hose from the IACV - easy to miss connecting it under the intake. possible timing - never use the the arrow/triangle - use the dashed line on the tab at the back of the crank sprocket. If one of those tabs was broken off - car won't start either.

find the tooth count for your engine. Belt marks won't line-up again for 300 revolutions or w'ever - really crazy. even on a new install, I did not solely trust the belt marks, I did a tooth count also.

are you beginning to get cool/damp mornings ? bad plug wires could be an issue - they arc when wet, then dry-out. (but, not sure if the 2.0 has coil-on-plug ?) could be oil in the plug tubes I guess?

I think you said, when it begins, it's repetitive? if so, is it in sync with tire rotation, or faster? Could be some carrier bearing or u-joint problem i guess. you feel no jerking or binding when maneuvering or parking in parking lots? maybe after it happens, you could measure hub temps with an infrared thermometer - if a bearing is failing in an odd way, that hub may be hotter than its mate.

bump - anyone able to help?

post your city in a new thread asking for a mechanic - maybe someone can suggest a shop that will track down the noise. If you can duplicate the sound for a mechanic on a test drive, that will help. a common source for banging is the sway bar and its link/mounts. They can also be broken and will catch and pop. Plenty of other sources of noise of course, even springs can be broken in odd ways.

I just remebered a trick I used decades ago, call 4-5-6 used car lots, maybe include a subaru trade-in lot. pretend to be an insurance adjuster and you are trying to find-out some values because you need to total-out a wrecked RS. see what numbers come up.

you could keep the struts and replace the mounts if they are cracked or the bearings squeaking - honestly, many cars are driving on worn-out struts all the time. and, if you are short on money to maintain this car, where does the money come from to buy another car and begin repairing it?

brakes are common wear item for all cars. knock sensors are $10 from ebay axles are a common repair for most cars too - not horribly expensive to replace or re-boot O2 sensors can be a little pricey - but, some codes for that are just an exhaust leak - some welding could be all that's needed get a new one, keep this one too! (man, I wish I could get it)

kinda makes sense

what kind of work does it need? you should get it fixed and keep it.

^^^ great post

I'd spray some starter fluid or similar into the intake to see if it fires - that should help with questions about fuel. make certain the crank position sensor is undamaged and plugged in. any CEL codes?

no - I doubt you're an idiot - but I can tell you whoever approved the iconography on our 03's stalk was, it clearly indicates washer-squirting with a pull of the stalk, but all you get is a quick mist-wipe. the ONLY way to get front washing is the button on the end. I THINK I've seen a thread about modifying the swith's little pc board to alter the function. Not worth the trouble to me.

get new KYB - I just don't think junkyard struts would be much better than the ones you have - I suppose if you found some with less than 50-75K miles, maybe..... you can scribe the position of the adjustment bolt and get camber back close enough. do a search - you can find DIY stuff here and over at subaruoutback.org , as well as some youtube videos (users ericthecarguy and briansmobile often have Subaru videos that are good). check parts prices at Amazon, RockAuto, etc.

Just to be clear - you aren't talking about the crank pulley are you? sometimes, people don't torque those properly. And sometimes the rubber between the outer and inner pieces degrades. Those issues would need attention.

Those connectors may be located close enough to the battery to have some corrosion in them - double check for that. I had to replace the front windshield motor in ourt 03 OBW with an aftermarket one from a parts store. The new one worked better than the old one. sometimes, stuff just breaks.

you may have used the wrong mark on the crank sprocket - for belt installation, you ignore the arrow/triangle on the front. You use the tab with the dash/line on the back of the sprocket. also, did one of those tabs break off? the crank position sensor needs them.

interesting! When you remove that to add a filter - is there a center pipe you add? EDIT - looks like you need 15211AA000 ???

DO NOT allow the steering wheel to spin freely when you disconnect it. Roll-connector/clockspring cable w'ever will be damaged.

many people drive their binding cars in FWD mode. not sure on something as new as 2012, but our 03 needs a spare fuse (any size) placed INTO an empty slot labeled FWD to disable AWD.