1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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there's a slight possibility the problem is a u-joint or carrier bearing. Slight because all those parts still turn when AWD is dsabled - but, there's less force on them. Also, it may be worth trying an additive like Trans X. Just on the off-chance it saves a major repair. -
kinda doubt a valve issue with smooth vacuum - but.....? live data may be a good next step - Torque app with an elm327 BT adapter, or a Tactrix cable to a laptop...... maybe free ssm;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/39426-freessm-complete-access-your-ecm-tcu.html
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you might consider a TGV delete if this continues to be a problem. You will need to flash the ECU's rom to kill the associated codes though.
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um - this is trite but needs to be asked; all 4 tires the same brand/model/size and very near each other in wear-level?
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try refreshing all the grounds you can find. might be time for compression/leakdown testing. maybe there's a dropped valve guide?
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is it possible the gas is bad? water in it or a vindictive neighbor sabotaged the car? maybe try some HEET?
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you could buy me a Silver lol!
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does it idle normally?
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maybe more than one item but, despite no code, symptoms kinda point to knock sensor. If it looks cracked - it isn't hard or expensive to replace. almost the only sensor than doesn't need to be OEM - cheap ebay units have worked well for most people. could your clutch be slipping? PCV valve may also be gummed-up.
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^^^ that also, old pulleys sometimes have separation from bad rubber between the 2 parts.
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I just bought a bronxe to send in a little extra $ - wouldn't let me re-up at the high level???
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if it does, it was a swap. Might be fun when it's running, might be full of headaches when it breaks.
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is the big hose from the IACV connected under the intake tubing? I would pull the covers and check timing. I'd say possibly a bad ECU ?
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when I do that with our 03, it also arms the security system. you might consider asking your question at http://www.subaruoutback.org/ also.
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if it's stumbling at idle - one thing to try, spray some starter fluid into the intake. If it is starved for fuel - it should smooth out. If the problem gets worse, maybe it's being flooded. And if there's no change, could be a timing/compression/spark issue.
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rebooting a soob axle from a junkyard is a decent approach.
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throw a vacuum gauge on it - you can find info on-line of the 3-4 issues a vacuum gauge can show.
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gary - he needs to pull the ABS fuse and test as you mentioned. just to confirm if he's really feeling ABS.
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is that a 3EAT ? anyway, I assume it must be checked while idling. My 4EAT does best if I pull the stick, wipe it, and wait a minute or 90 seconds before checking. If I add fluid, I try to add 1/2 pint at a time , run the selector thru all the gears, then check again - after a LONG wait. I always go by the lower line looking on each side of a dipstick. seriously, add a small amount because those lines are a lot less than a quart apart - it isn't like engine oil marks.
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does that car have a separate little tone ring? maybe it's loose or ....? is one tire a slightly smaller size?
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intended primarily to use with 'donut' spare tire use.
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look around at www.opposedforces.com for illustration of the system - you may need to get a window 'regulator' and maybe motor from a wreck.
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possibly worn inner tie rods, uneven pad deposits on rotors, maybe some other brake issue (sticking caliper or ????) are you running good tires?
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^^^ that you need experienced hands to drive the car and push-pull on the suspension, steering and drivetrain parts. you could open a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near your city - someone may know a soob-experienced mechanic.
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is the car manual or auto? if auto, use the FWD fuse and monitor for any change. if manual - do you notice it only happens after the car has warmed-up?
