1 Lucky Texan

i'd check timing - probably OK. if no fire with ether, could be a no spark issue - especially if the car turns over with what 'seems' like normal compression (this "Rrrr,Rrrr,Rrrr,Rrrr" repeated. and NOT either ; "rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" fast, nor, "Rrrr,Rrrr,reeer,Rrrr" with one fast like a dead/low comp. cylinder so, basically severely messed-up timing or , no spark. I suppose an intermittent, now bad, Crank Position Sensor is possible.....

seems unlikely the system could pull enough timing to cause as severe a problem as you have - but, changing the knock sensor is cheap and easy - may relate to the prev. problem of pinging. scan again for codes - might be a more-useful 'pending' code. try a squirt of starting fluid or brake cleaner to see if it fires. 'dropped' valve guide might cause a severe but intermittent problem - they can shift back and forth...vacuum test might spot that.

meh - if you used the recommended NGK plugs, they actually warn against using anti-seize. I wouldn't pull them. crush washer already crushed and the more you handle them, the more likely to bend an electrode or crack porcelain.

maybe some size 12-pt socket of appropriate size - that is, slightly too small to drop over the plug, could have the 12 'points'/'lobes' filed/ground to create an 'entry' or ramp - on each lobe. Them, hammer it onto the plug. Might grip well enough to extract the plug. This is similar to how thieves defeat security lug nuts.

I THINK (not certain on this engine) they are 'shoulder bolts' and not 'typical' at all.

lots of info here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html easiest is often as said above, (if repairs have been made and the systems is empty) put in the volume the system requires.

doesn't have one. In the US, I don't think any soob had one before 2000 or 01 or so.

"It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow."

good posts timing belt system is a priority. another sensor worth investigating is the knock sensor - but symptom more closely matches engine temp sensor.

My wife wants a new (well, different) car badly. But I really doubt I will be able to let her Outback go. So, kinda wondering about having 3 cars myself.

there's also this; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/297977-another-wind-noise-solution-cheap-easy.html

did it smell like toasted marshmallows or like oil? any fluids low? any chance the smoke was drifting up from lower dow, near the exhaust?

I had a similar issue with my WRX, almost 9 years old, but under 60k miles. I changed all the pulleys , kept the waterpump, kept the cam and crank seals. Ebay kit from, I think , mizumoauto. (may have been theautoexperts ? - I looked at several sources). I got a mitsuboshi belt in my kit. I would trust gates as well. glad I did it. my toothed idler was very loose and wobbled a little. another pulley was very loose.

does a 94 in this market have a knock sensor? could be cracked/bad.

I have read several posts of people having to replace leaking lines that run over the gas tank. I think the use the old line to pull the cupronickel (?) replacements through?

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

check voltage too - ABS seems most sensitive to charging/battery problems on some older cars.

yeah, possible cap/o=ring problem

I re-read the thread - does it seem to only happen after the car warms up? wotdsm mentioned the coolant temp sensor (might be one 3 wire device onyour cat, if not, it's the 2 wire one, not the single wire temp gauge sender. anothet thought, hook a vacuum gauge up and see what it does before and after the problem exhibits itself. Maybe a valve is sticking or ....?

I have definitely seen ground wires on my intake mani.

yeah, I even read of a guy getting misfires due to debris on the crank position sensor - cleaned it off and the car ran fine.

look inside the PS tank closely while idling - if there are bubbles - you have an air leak. lots of info, search air - power steering - o-ring , etc. bearing in tensioner pulley - or the pulley's mount, might be throwing/snapping belts? also, watch crank pulley for wobbling while running - it's 2-piece and the rubber ring can fail.

I think some people have replaced the switch at the brake pedal - or a plastic 'button' that contacts it.

can you or your mechanic get you eye close to the top of the open PS fluid tank You need to look for foam/bubbles while idling - maybe as someone works the wheel back and forth. example;

wonder if the mechanic scanned for codes? sometimes, there are 'pending' codes and the CEL may be dark. was the timing belt systems serviced at 105K miles? I'd hope a mechanic would look for skipped timing.... I think some 06es have had gas pedal problems. Not sure your symptoms fit.