1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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www.boxer4racing.com used to carry coilover and othe bits for the legacy cars - not the best website, maybe email them and see what they suggest? you might dig around at nasioc and over at subaruoutback.org too, ask in the classifieds with a WTB (want to buy) post - maybe someone has something laying around? -
+1 to check for codes, great suggestion. MUST have 4 tires all the same brand/model/size. and 'near' each other in wear. the 5spds can buck/jerk with torque bind after they warm-up. Does the car feel smooth if you coast in N after it's warmed-up ? if the engine is acting-up after it warms up - could be the Engine Temp Sensor (not the temp gauge on the dash) It may be bad - telling the ECU to keep 'choking' the engine with fuel after it's warmed-up. I wouldn't rule out a bad knock sensor - inexpensive ebay parts seem to work well for people if their KS is cracked/bad. Worth inspecting insdie the plug tubes for oil too.
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the car will run briefly with the accessory belts off. remove them one ata a time, might help pin down a/c compressor or ????
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CEL on? I'd be tempted to check for slipped timing. and inspect the backside of the radiator to see if fan blades hit it. consider a rear diff fluid change if you think water was higher than the top of the diff.
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much better than having a serious mechanical issue.
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no other changes were done to the car? tires all the same size/model? rear diff and transmission the same as before? if so, either some problem with the driveshaft ???? or, coincidentally, there's now a problem with system detecting slippage and trying to engage the wet clutch pack in the trans.
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has a drink been spilled onto the switches? be honest......
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should be under warranty right?
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evidently, proper prep of the head surface helps a lot. Milling or 'lapping' on plate glass. here's some info from fel-pro (of course, they want to sell you their gasket) about failures; http://www.felpro-only.com/blog/sealing-subaru-2-5l-engines/
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but, didn't a fairly bit 'wrinkle' still have to go under that guide? just not certain Gates is to blame here.
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ok - could the keyway be damaged allowing the crank sprocket to rotate? just thinking outside the box here.....
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never use the triangle/arrow on the front of the crank sprocket - use the dash-mark on the tab - lined up with the mark on the CPS 'boss'/holder. (that arrow will likely be near 3 o'clock) also, find the tooth count for your engine. good double check after pulling the tensioner pin and cranking over by hand.
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maybe using the FWD fuse would help diagnose it?
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Hmmm....maybe do a tooth count on the belt to double check. any sign of rubbing/damage on the back of the belt? also, did the tensioner come with new pulley attached?, isn't there a way for the bolt on the tensiner pulley to be installed wrong?
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Perrin might be around $100 if you get a used one from a junker - get the newest that will fit - maybe up to 2010 or 11 or so? anyone know? anyway, newer might help avoid getting one with old, brittle rubber to have it also fail.
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someone on a Forum recently reported a new toothed idler that was wobbling. I'd check everything - also,maybe a bolt wasn't torqued holding an idler or is stripped?
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perfect excuse to install a Perrin or other lightweight crank pulley.
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did you drive thru high water? anyway - all that related stuff is in the back, underneath. Near the fuel filler and around/above the differential. Mud or water might compromise that filter, spiders, ...??? - possibly 'topping-off' the tank, or just some kind of failure.... should be under emissions warranty
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yeah - poor assumption was that you had original plug wires. If you got NGK or Subaru wires, they should be fine. any signs of oil on the wire boots? oil inside those plug tubes can short the HV ignition.
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P0453
1 Lucky Texan replied to Msp90's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
you have a flooded charcoal canister, or a bad/clogged 'drain' hose/valve - all evap stuff. you could try pulling the hoses from the canister, if you get pressure released, that hose may be clogged. Occasionally it is mud or spiders. -
+1 to exhaust leaks causing a p0420 - many other things can too. plugs and wires - you might experiment moving the wires around if the length will allow it. see if the misfire follows the wire from cyl 3. but, hard not to just replace 16 year old wires if original. knock sensors crack and can cause really poor performance. One thing where cheap ebay sensors actually have a good reputation for fixing. if you need a mechanic - post a new thread asking for a recommendation near your city.
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IF the engine has never overheated, rebuilding the heads - surfacing them properly, and assembling with the mls-type turbo gaskets, could yield a good engine. Installing a 2.2 liter is also an option - those have a reputation of being bulletproof. briansmobile and ericthecarguy have good soob-related videos.
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well, I hope it gets repaired if there's an actual failure. I have had spurious codes set 3 times on my 2 Subarus. Just cleared and never came back, or, new battery fixed the issue. But, all modern cars that have traction control, cruise control and perhaps 1 or 2 other systems, will turn on those warning lights if even the simplest thing causes the CEL to come on.
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if the charcoal canister or any attached hoses/wires were damaged, you would get a check engine light on and 1 or more evap codes. is the CEL on? if so, get the ECU scanned and post the codes here.
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exhaust leaks can cause that code - maybe have the car examined for damage underneath - you could probably put in an insurance claim but with deductible.....?