1 Lucky Texan

if you use the FWD fuse, does the shaking at 60 mph symtpom change? or is that system still broken. swapping tires front to back affect it? any cupping or other uneven wear on the tires? original struts I guess? they are likely bad. test for loose inner tie rods. inspect brakes for uneven pad wear, clacked caliper brackets/bolts, sticking caliper....check ,in pairs, that no brake/hub is hotter than its mate after a highway run. Worn rack bushing might also be in this mix. Does the shaking happen often enough that you could - SAFELY - have a nother car pace you. Set up a signal with the emergency flasher, or have a passenger use a cellphone to let the other car know when the vibration is present - maybe they could spot a wheel bouncing shaking or ???

shouldn't need to take the tank down. On my Outback, there is access under the rear seat. Look for a youtube video for your car - might find a couple if you're lucky. My impression from lots of reading is, Soob pumps are generally robust and a unit from a wreck should be considered. I think Airtex and Bosch have aftermarket units. Maybe someone else will have some experienced advice.

any correlation with rain/dew ? if so, try misting the plug wires down while idling - they may be cracked/shorting high voltage (they are 20 years old right?)

there MAY be a way to do it (doubtful though - fluid may not be circulating?) with the driveshaft disconnected somehow - but even that may not be as practical as a trailer in the long run. info; http://www.cars101.com/towing.html maybe trade the car in for a manual?

is there enough length to swap plug wires with another cylinder?

yeah they make all that and more. Plus a lot of parts will swap-over from the WRXes. You can look around for rims and maybe sway bars or other 'take-offs' as folks upgrade. the intake may add some sound, it won't add power - the intake is already a CAI. unequal length headers will come close to re-creating the sound of the turbo cars. if you ever swap rims, try to get some lighter than stock. also, a lightweight crank pulley might be a good idea when it's time for the timing belt system service. If it's a 5sp - consider a lightweight flywheel when it's time for a clutch. ~4 lbs of rotating mass = 1 hp.

could be 2 problems the steering issue could the cardan/double u-joint coupler going to the rack. If the steering feels like it grabs in the same place in its rotation particularly. is there any whining when you are idling - or idling and turning the wheel? look in the power steering tank for bubbles/foam - could be air getting sucked into the fluid. Tha can sometimes cause a quik, repetitive jerking/vibration feeling in the steering wheel, but not always. it's possible there's an issue with the axles - maybe one isn't fully seated in the diff. I think you should consider a new thread on your car's problem(s) more details about the car needed

07 may have a 'native' way to read-out codes on the dash

any wrecks/work done to the car before this began? the fuel pump should run for a few seconds every time you turn the key from OFF - to -ON. do that a few times (without going to START) and confirm you hear the pump hum each time. After doing that several times in a row, then try START. maybe a leaky injector or ??? is losing fule pressure. you can also pull spark plugs to see if one smells like fuel - leaky injector. if you spray some carb cleaner or ether-start in the intake, will the car try to fire? is a CEL on? read the code(s) and post here. how long since the timing belt system was serviced? many things will prevent a car from starting - bad crank sensor, slipped timing, etc.

ok - did a little searching and found one thing I read about in the past ( http://www.heriautomotive.com/ ) ;

I think most folks get longer/different axles(someone offers an axle with a Rzeppa joint on the inner in place of the tripod joint), but the extreme angle can certainly be an issue. hope someone with more experience/details responds.

on yours, not sure - the info should be in the manual near the section on using the 'donut' spare tire. you should be able to find a spare fuse, inside the cover of the under-hood fuse box in front to the left (US driver's) side strut tower. Any fuse will work - and it can be used as a normal spare afterwards. The slot to put it in is either in that same fuse box or, on newer cars, it may be a slot in the cabin fuse panel near your left knee.

that is a MAP sensor code - solenoid/sensor on/near the right (US pass.) side strut tower, should have one vacuum line. hmmm...if the vacuum line seems good, maybe connecting the green connectors under the dash would cycle the solenoid so you could feel it clicking? also, i ran across some mention of a TSB but. not sure if 96 year model involved; TSB # 114795

wow, low miles! - seems like you don't use the car much - that can be considered 'severe duty' . If the car is only getting short trips on surface streets, you may need to do maintenance using the time side of the schedule instead of the mileage side. That includes oil changes and the timing belt. (dunno if a 96 gets a belt every 60 months or 105 months, also, things like separator plates and cam seals can begin to leak. Valve cover gaskets too. But you said 'consume' so, there's no dripping .....? I think oil control rings can get sludge-y, maybe more highway runs or synthetic oil could help? Or a 'motor flush' or MMO treatment? anyway - like those guys up there said, different brand of oil could be the simplest way to help situation.

how many miles on the car? your oil use may be typical but, others here have experience running the 2.2l engines. you could try a 10w-30 (or 40) in the summer months.

make sure you have a functioning PCV system - good valve and clean hoses re-examine you choice of oil - weight and brand don't think because you are always adding fresh oil, you can skimp on oil changes - blowby can put fuel in the crankcase thinning the oil.

has the smell always been there? 07 could easily have a split boot that has slung grease onto the exhaust - that stinks kinda bad. do you have a check engine light on? get the car scanned at a car parts store and post the number here. next time the car is running, you could use a plant mister spray bottle to spray the ignition parts to see if it makes the car stumble. if you are not able to do repairs yourself, you can post in a new thread a request for a good shop near your city.

I've used 5-6 on-line sources, half were discount dealer parts sites like subarugenuineparts and fredbeansparts. Many parts from RockAuto and Amazon, some from ebay too. I had a local dealer match prices from an online dealer a coupla times too. bought some parts from the classifieds on 3 different forums. just depends.

one of the gurus here may know, but I'm pretty sure there is another spot on the block you could put a sender or gauge.

have you tried the FWD fuse?

usually called a sandwich adapter I think? https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=oil%20pressure%20sender%20adapter%20filter&index=blended&link_code=qs&sourceid=Mozilla-search&tag=mozilla-20

axles will sometimes cause vibration. you could post a new thread asking for a good soob-experienced mechanic near your city. Have a different opinion after a test drive of the car. it is imperative the tires all be the same size/brand/model and near each other in wear. any change in the tires before this began? any jerking/bucking when driving tight circles on dry pavement? maneuvering in parking lots?

what's wrong with the diff now?

rebuild heads - reassemble with TURBO gaskets? (have head surfaces prepped)