1 Lucky Texan

have used it for that a few times - works well. It can work well to remove sticky adhesive residue from labels, etc. too. have to follow up with a household cleanser usually.

leakdown test might show leaking exhaust or intake valve. smurfsack - how many miles on the engine? a used engine from a wreck could be an option - might have 1/2 the mileage. LKQ or car-part.com ,not cheap, but an idea.....

if you don't KNOW the timing belt system was properly serviced, maybe a loose tensioner is letting the belt flap around too much. that's an interference engine, don't drive it without KNOWING the condition of the TB idler pulleys and other parts. should be serviced every 105K miles OR 105 MONTHS, w'ever comes first. The toothed idler can seize or puke its bearings - throws the belt off.

might be a switch at the clutch pedal - maybe mouse chewed wiring.... neutral safety switch problem of some type.

was the parking brake engaged? maybe it was and you backed-off the star wheel to remove the rotor???? seems like u would recall disengaging the handle afterwards though. weird

looking at a MSDS for that product - there's very little lube in it (1% - 5%); 3 - Composition/Information on Ingredients Ingredient CAS # Weight Percent US Hazcom 2012/ GHS Classification LVP Petroleum Solvent 64742-47-8 60-80 Aspiration Toxicity Category 1 Poly(dimethylsiloxane) 63148-62-9 1-5 Not Hazardous http://www.wd40specialist.com/pdf/WD40SpecialistSilicone Lubricant-MSDS(6-24-11).pdf http://www.wd40specialist.com/pdf/WD40SpecialistSilicone%20Lubricant-MSDS(6-24-11).pdf

ah - looks like a different product. Not sure how it differs from other silicone sprays.

wd-40 is an OK solvent (mostly StoddardSolvent I think, you can read about it at wikipedia) , but a poor, short-lived lubricant. silicone or perhaps something else (lithium ?) would better

as near as I can tell - exedy doesn't list a flywheel in the OEM catalog for many newer soobs. other parts yeah, but not many flywheels. maybe try ACT ?

this can be spark plug wires. try using a plant mister at night - spray the wires and look for arcing. anyway - 17 year old plug wires if original, get a set of OEM or NGK (?) wires - most generic wires don't seem to work on soobs.

yeah, timing needs to be checked.

how long since the timing belt system was serviced? were any warning lights on? any new ones come on? is the CEL on? if so, get the code(s) read and post them.

there is also an antenna booster amp - it needs 12V

have the mechanic check circuitry that goes thru the hatch boot. wires in there can abrade/short - not sure if 12V is present all the time back there.

could be a sensor/tone ring problem. look around the axles for problems.

105K miles OR 105Months - w'ever comes first.

^^^ yep - or possibly a coupla resistors at the end of the harness. but, with ECU Flash or some other tuner software, you can 'un-check' the P0420 and other codes I think.

??? um - was it a new tensioner? if you reused the old one, maybe you compressed it too fast and blew-out the seal? maybe post up some pics and one of the more experienced guys here will spot something. include 2-3 good pics of the tensioner from different angles too. no question you got the right belt/parts?

13 hours is a number that makes YOU say no - that way, the shop didn't say no. They throw that at you because they are uncomfortable with doing the job, backed-up or ????

he could consider running without a muffler and do a 'turn down' on the exhaust.

grease from a split axle boot?

well, it seems possible you were troubleshooting the wrong area of the car. Since the car is new to you but has had some known issues - you should also confirm the rear diff matches the final drive ratio of the transmission. the center differential (actually, a wet clutch pack in the auto trans) in the transmission is responsible for 'torque bind'. make certain all 4 tires are the same size/brand/model and 'near' each other in wear. If so, next experiment would be to try using the FWD fuse (I think 08s have them?) under the hood. The rear diff may be 'open' on your car, but, even if it's a LSD - it's a viscous coupled unit.

thin metal - probably heat shields, frequently rusted and loose. whining noise could be acc. belt tensioner or idler bearings, or air in the power steering. common issues (like the PS or the tensioner bearing) listed as 'stickies' at the top of this forum; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/

we have an 03, it gets very little time on freeways so, the suspension takes a beating. It had a bad strut at ~65K miles. Almost a guarantee a 2001 anything with original struts needs new ones. you might also have a broken spring. Sometimes those can actually be hard to spot - again, all that stuff needs careful inspection.

any number of things could be wrong with the car - perhaps 2-3 at the same time. try swapping tires in pairs fron tot back - check for change in vibration at speed. I think a full inspection of all the brake and suspension and axle parts would be good start. Also, all 4 tires MUST be; same brand, same size and same model. Also best if they all vary no more than about 3/32" in tread deppth. Proper inflation is good too. If you must run mixed sizes, use the FWD fuse in the fuse box under the hood until you get same size tires. Also, try using that fuse and test for vibration at speed as you mentioned. you may need a pro to find/list the problems for you - then decide what you can DIY. basically, ask the mech. ;"what needs immediate attention, what can I 'live with', and what should I save-up for?" post a request for a shop recommendation near your city in a new thread.