1 Lucky Texan

wd-40 is an OK solvent (mostly StoddardSolvent I think, you can read about it at wikipedia) , but a poor, short-lived lubricant. silicone or perhaps something else (lithium ?) would better

as near as I can tell - exedy doesn't list a flywheel in the OEM catalog for many newer soobs. other parts yeah, but not many flywheels. maybe try ACT ?

this can be spark plug wires. try using a plant mister at night - spray the wires and look for arcing. anyway - 17 year old plug wires if original, get a set of OEM or NGK (?) wires - most generic wires don't seem to work on soobs.

yeah, timing needs to be checked.

how long since the timing belt system was serviced? were any warning lights on? any new ones come on? is the CEL on? if so, get the code(s) read and post them.

there is also an antenna booster amp - it needs 12V

have the mechanic check circuitry that goes thru the hatch boot. wires in there can abrade/short - not sure if 12V is present all the time back there.

could be a sensor/tone ring problem. look around the axles for problems.

105K miles OR 105Months - w'ever comes first.

^^^ yep - or possibly a coupla resistors at the end of the harness. but, with ECU Flash or some other tuner software, you can 'un-check' the P0420 and other codes I think.

??? um - was it a new tensioner? if you reused the old one, maybe you compressed it too fast and blew-out the seal? maybe post up some pics and one of the more experienced guys here will spot something. include 2-3 good pics of the tensioner from different angles too. no question you got the right belt/parts?

13 hours is a number that makes YOU say no - that way, the shop didn't say no. They throw that at you because they are uncomfortable with doing the job, backed-up or ????

he could consider running without a muffler and do a 'turn down' on the exhaust.

grease from a split axle boot?

well, it seems possible you were troubleshooting the wrong area of the car. Since the car is new to you but has had some known issues - you should also confirm the rear diff matches the final drive ratio of the transmission. the center differential (actually, a wet clutch pack in the auto trans) in the transmission is responsible for 'torque bind'. make certain all 4 tires are the same size/brand/model and 'near' each other in wear. If so, next experiment would be to try using the FWD fuse (I think 08s have them?) under the hood. The rear diff may be 'open' on your car, but, even if it's a LSD - it's a viscous coupled unit.

thin metal - probably heat shields, frequently rusted and loose. whining noise could be acc. belt tensioner or idler bearings, or air in the power steering. common issues (like the PS or the tensioner bearing) listed as 'stickies' at the top of this forum; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/

we have an 03, it gets very little time on freeways so, the suspension takes a beating. It had a bad strut at ~65K miles. Almost a guarantee a 2001 anything with original struts needs new ones. you might also have a broken spring. Sometimes those can actually be hard to spot - again, all that stuff needs careful inspection.

any number of things could be wrong with the car - perhaps 2-3 at the same time. try swapping tires in pairs fron tot back - check for change in vibration at speed. I think a full inspection of all the brake and suspension and axle parts would be good start. Also, all 4 tires MUST be; same brand, same size and same model. Also best if they all vary no more than about 3/32" in tread deppth. Proper inflation is good too. If you must run mixed sizes, use the FWD fuse in the fuse box under the hood until you get same size tires. Also, try using that fuse and test for vibration at speed as you mentioned. you may need a pro to find/list the problems for you - then decide what you can DIY. basically, ask the mech. ;"what needs immediate attention, what can I 'live with', and what should I save-up for?" post a request for a shop recommendation near your city in a new thread.

these may be the parts you need - adjustable and 'fixed' ; http://boxer4racing.3dcartstores.com/Sway-Bars-End-Links_c_166.html oops - maybe only BSR19XXZ still available ?

use a 6 point socket, 1/2" breaker bar, with a cheater pipe- put the cheater on the frame on the left side - bump the starter. Some people put the breaker on the ground - guess it would work if very long. I was lucky and an electric impact took mine off.

any chance there has been rodent damage to wiring? There have been some people experience ice/snow/mud pulling that connector out too. In the back around the evap canister I think. bad/loose gas cap is sometimes mentioned in connection with that code.

if he has a habit of 'topping-off' the tank, the carbon canister could be flooded. there are various tubes, solenoids and valves that must be clear/functional to allow air to escape when filling the tank. That escaping air - due to being gas-fume-laden, is supposed to pass through the carbon canister so, any of that system that is clogged with a bad valve or insect nests or mud will prevent the air to pass. You can try unplugging some of the larger tubes around the charcoal canister while filling, when filling becomes easier/normal, you'll know which general area is causing the problem. the test connectors under the dash will probably cycle the evap solenoids for you - doesn't mean they aren't clogged though. others may know more about that. expect more CEL codes while doing this trouble-shooting.

93 STi ? maybe someone has added an STi badge you might check over at NASIOC if no help arrives here.

probably a good idea to replace the tensioner.

WAY overdue from the 'time' side of the maintenance schedule. (105K miles OR 105Months) Do the timing system service. (I wouldn't change the waterpump, but all the idlers and the tensioner should be changed. carefully inspect the crank and cam seals and be prepared to change any that are seeping. lots of info on line, probably 2-3 youtube videos, etc.