1 Lucky Texan

are those prices from a dealer? from the sound of it, you should pay a different (preferably independent mechanic) shop to evaluate the car. have them break it down into what MUST be done(timing belt service), what you can save up for(while not recommended, you can ride on worn-out shocks for a long time), and what you can live with (like a minor fluid drip) many people have been sold a/c compressors when they just need some o-rings - not saying you have been or will be ripped-off by the present shop, but for the amount of money involved, you may be surprised at the difference in price. For instance, even IF the rack needs replacement, a good used unit from a wreck will be much cheaper than a new one. Subaru steering racks are robust and I rarely read about failures so , a low miles used unit should be fine.

could be breather and PCV hoses are misrouted. I think having the engine checked out at a different shop might be a good idea. ask for a recomendation in a new thread - maybe someone knows of a reliable mechanic in your area. joke; Hill country farmer number 1; "you got any rocks at your place?" Hill Country farmer number 2; "Yeah, we got some the size of pick-up trucks. And we got some big ones too!."

might depend on the nature of the repairs and whether the present car still meets your demands. every car will need struts, ball joints and rotors(many older cars will get a timing belt service too) - but if the repairs seem more related to possible reliability issues, then it may be time to shop for a replacement.

torque bind could be caused by mixed tire sizes. 2000 has either a spin-on filter, or a filter in the fender area near the battery so, can't imagine too many big particles loose in there - still, TB can certainly be caused by electronic and mechanical problems too.

OK - long but good post found here;http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73353-danger-in-driving-wno-driveshaft-on-awd-car/ It seems a working center diff 'may' be able to move the car with a DS removed, but it's very bad for the center diff. If you have a failed ctr diff that is locked-up, folks have removed rear drivetrain parts and 'converted' to FWD. If the center diff has failed by leaking internally, it is unlikely to move with the DS removed. 9good illustrations in that thread. thanx Fairtax for making me go look!

really? didn't know that - I guess all the power just spins the output shaft ???? why wouldn't the center diff respond as if a rear wheel were slipping and lock power to the front?

nvrmd

wonder if a 'kid' was driving that car? 16 year-old cars are all the same regardless of brand. That is, 99% of their value as possible trouble-free, reliable transportation is dependent on their past care/lack of abuse and their present condition, not their brand. So, shop carefully and have a GOOD mechanic inspect the car before purchase. For instance, torque bind and headgaskets would be areas of extreme concern. You may need expert help in checking the car over. post your city in a new thread asking for a recommendation and someone may know of a good soob-experienced garage near you.

I'd shop for a trans with 1/2 - 1/3 the mileage from a wreck. LKQ or car-part.com .

what sealer was used? external leaks can often be fixed or greatly reduced using the Subaru Coolant Conditioner (a repackaged leak stop) But, I guess I'd wait to see if the product you used works. If not, a thorough coolant drain with a refill using the SCC PER INSTRUCTIONS might be a good next move.

I see experienced folks recommend OEM or Aisin waterpumps.

do the plugs look the same side-to-side?

do what you want of course, but a better project would be a WRX or STI swap into that car. a LOT more readily available parts and software options. you might also enjoy searching for cardoc's supercharged H6 over at subaruoutback.org

the odds of having slipped timing (or, since it was wrecked, cracked cam pulley) are greater than the odds of 2 burned valves yielding almost identically low compression. the crank pulley will come off with 3-4 different techniques - they all work. many people without 'special' tools just use a breaker bar against the frame or the ground and 'bump' the starter. Do you know when the last TB system was serviced? probably needs new rollers and a belt anyway. this forum has helped me a lot, and grossgary is probably the most helpful person on the forum.

3rd gen H6s seem to be a good bet. Again, with used cars, the brand is less of an indicator of future reliability than the individual car's prior care and present condition. Shop carefully, and I'm sure you'd do OK - but getting the used, abused, uncared-for and overheated car is gonna be a bad idea.

if all 6 plugs look the same, but are black with carbon, might be an issue with the PCV system.

confirm there are no lug nut/stud issue or dragging brakes or loose axle nuts. , swap axles side to side. (inspect axles when off the car.) if problem moves with axle - well, there's your problem. (fingers crossed because, easier fix than front diff) do not final-torque the axles with the car's weight on the ground - stick a big screwdriver in a disk vane and 'buck up' against the caliper.

wonder if that smoke smells sweet like coolant? def. check inside the radiator for coolant level. I have also put a small clamp (actually, 2 zip ties) on the small hose going to the overflow at the radiator neck. caboobaru - would the plug look different in a cylinder with a crack as you describe? Would that cylinder get wet with coolant during a cooling system pressure test?

'best' might depend on your intended use. dunno if we have enough time on the FB engines to determine possible longevity. how have the diesels been holding up overseas? Kinda wonder about my 06 WRX's engine. (of course, many are 'tuned' , raced or abused) it seems to not have the oil screens, it does have a water cooled turbo bearing. of course, turbo HGs ... how durable will it be with somewhat 'normal' driving?

exhaust hanger?

run stickier tires shed weight - lightweight crank pulley and flywheel, lighter rims(maybe not for rally cross) , take out seats, etc. approx 1 hp for every 11 pounds of mass, 1 hp for every 4 lbs of rotating mass. make certain you arent' riding on worn out struts or other suspension/braking bits.

coin toss but - I'd be tempted to find an engine from a wreck (might have half the miles and no overheat events, still would need gaskets and TB though) to rebuild - or drop a 2.2 in the car.

I'd want to inspect the fuel pump's cap and o-ring could be anything that throws-off OR confuse the ECU about A:F ratio. MAP, front o2 sensor, vacuum leak.....

maybe a dropped valve guide? they can even shift around if loose I think.

typical inexpensive shop lights put out a lot of green/'cool' light. whitebalance will help , not sure if that's an option on a phone or even all digital cameras.