1 Lucky Texan

make sure the inner joint's spline is fully popped into the differential. get the CEL code read and post it here - might still be stored in the ECU.

I have never used them but, for temporary use, you could try; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009JC42JU?keywords=coil%20sumosprings%20subaru&qid=1452522153&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

man! what a beast - ultimate sleeper, folks won't know what you got until the boost hits! power/weight ratio must be nuts. kinda surprised stock fuel pump can keep up - hope you're not leaning-out at high boost. you should consider a brake upgrade lol!

well, there seem to be several videos at youtube that would be helpful to some degree. hopefully, someone will respond that has done a replacement.

what is the symptom? MANY people have fixed their PS pumps with one or 2 o-rings and 1/2 hour of time. That's how I fixed my 06 WRX and our 03 Outback.

dang - you , like, resurrected a dead car ! good work

needs timing belt service.

What were you driving or what are you driving now? How old is the offspring? not sure, but the Tribeca with the 6cyl 'may' also need premium fuel.

any codes stored? how many miles? has maintenance been kept up?

buying a used car is always risky - risk goes up by a factor of ten if that car is a fairly inexpensive sports car. Those have often already been mistreated by 'kids'. yes, there can be exceptions (I'm probably one - how many 61 year-olds drive WRXs ?) but, the risk is real. honestly, parting it out or just getting away from it some how may be your best move. You might also consider donating it to a vocational school or even a 'cars for Kids' or similar charity and take a tax deduction.

first - suprised the dealer didn't find a stored code. In a new thread, ask for a mech recommendation near your city. Someone may know of a good independent shop. when was the timing belt system last serviced? A skipped tooth can make a car run poorly. Other tune-up services in good shape? original plug wires could be a problem when moist with condensation/dew too. Or oil leaks into the plug tubes....

get another opinion - post your city in a new thread asking for a shop recommendation. maybe there's a cracked ring land and the heads are OK? you need precise info to decide how to proceed. If you still like the car and it meets your needs - fix it and drive it until the wheels fall-off. If you're ready for a new ride - consider parting yours out or sell it to someone for a project. basically, either bail-out, or buck-up.

triple check breather hose routing? triple check cam timing? measure oil pressure? does kinda seem like an intake valve problem - too tight? dropped guide? just wild guessing

live data. Get a laptop and tactrix cable and you can log boost, avcs percent, throttle position, etc. there MAY be a way to get a similar set of data with an elm327 BT adapter and a smartphone. here's an older video of the process;

any codes stored? you may need to find a performance shop with a dyno or try to get some live data during a failure. boost, AVCS issues would be suspect I think.

spray some carb cleaner in the intake to see if it even fires. sometimes crank position sensors fail.

if original - your struts are certainly quite worn. not sure on other stuff - rack bushings could tighten the steering....? look for Febest bushings at Amazon if you replace the rear bushings on the front LCAs. maybe the little parking brake shoes in the rear rotors ? inspect them at least.

wonder how long it sat? how old the timing belt and rollers are? you might consider inspecting for slipped timing, and dropping the exhaust to look for 'dropped' valve guides.

CEL on? scan for codes - could be in 'limp' mode?

make sure to NOT use the triangle/arrow on the front of the crank sprocket. MUST use the dash/line on the tab at the back. I suppose a weak tensioner could allow slipping, seems like you'd see/hear something when you cranked it over by hand ???? timing marks on pulleys and tooth-count are your friends. marks on belts are only a guide for initial placement.

is there lot of reddish buildup around the a/c comp? if so, could be your tech is correct. also, I have read of people replacing the a/c comp relay due to it dropping out or being unable to carry enough current due to worn contacts. an intermittent rad fan might cause issues - but you'd probably have overheating too. Double check that they are both running when the a/c is failing. this is a stretch but - might be a good idea to check the crank pulley. It's a 2-piece unit and sometimes can slip if the rubber is degraded. Not common, but possible.

make sure the hose didn't get twisted.

if you decide to use the 'blue wrench' - you may not need to apply much heat at all. I got a SEVERELY rusted/frozen axle to slide out of an Impala with just 10-15 seconds of heat (each - at the 12 oclock and 6 position) from a propane torch. Doesn't need to glow red. I bought an electric impact from Lowes and wish I had gotten one decades ago - if only for removing wheels. Maybe try to borrow an impact? fairtax I think has suggested heating a problem part, then immediately spraying with penetrant (uh - be careful of flames) and letting the cooling part draw the penetrant deeper into the 'interstitial' space. Seems like an awesome idea. I may have done that accidentally when I was fighting that axle.

PCV system clogged? might be a good idea to check oil pressure - maybe the relief valve or a clog is increasing oil pressure?

did the 2.2s get magnetic drain plugs? engine oil right? what size are those parts?