1 Lucky Texan

um - 'valet mode' should do it. check the manual or dig around at cars101.com . why not use the fob and the security system?

hmmm - first thing I would do, is try using the security fob - lock and unlock it 2-3 times. Then try to start it. (symptoms don't really make sense - but the security system may prevent driving the car sensing the battery change as tampering.) second suspect might be a fuel pressure leak somewhere....?

when you start it, does it crank longer than before the problem developed? that is, if it originally went; Rrr, Rrr, VRRROOOMMM does it do the same now, or is it ; Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, Rrr, VRRROOOMMM---OFF. do you smell fuel? You could try starting with the gas pedal all the way on the floor - that signals the ECU to shut-off fuel. It's the 'clear flood' routine. did the problem begin after refueling or a wreck or any repair/maintenance? is the cel on? if not, scanning for pending codes may still be useful.

not sure, plus, i suppose it's possible for a Denso starter to hang - maybe if the solenoid contacts 'fuse' to the plunger? Not psitive which starter you have - my 06 WRX is m'ishi. anyway - you can find info, threads, complaints about the issue if you do more general searches - and i think I've seen a youtube video of someone tearing-apart a starter and lubing it.

my 06 WRX has been doing this for several years - guaranteed to drag under 40* or so, usually won't if temps are over 50-55*F. Subaru went to a mitsubishi planetary starter in 05-06 i think and i have read several similar complaints. Might be a lube problem. I keep thinking I'll pull mine and try to lube the pinion spindle/axle w'ever but - just lazy i guess.

if you can reach it safely, try loosening it when it's hot from driving. try heating it - even with a propane torch, then spray with a penetrant like Kroil, PB Blaster or even ATF:Acetone 50:50 ,wait, try again, repeat, etc.. be careful of fumes/fire.

you might read here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6881-how-to-replace-fuel-temp-sensor/

bummer in a new thread, post you city and ask for a shop recommendation near you. maybe someone will know of a good mechanic.

on-line discount dealers, eBay, Rockauto and even Amazon have served me well overall. Just understand that varying from OEM can 'occasionally' be a problem. no harm in asking for specific opinions here - it has helped me make some tough decisions. Some of the gurus here have used more parts in a week than I will in a lifetime.

It varies, the cheap knock sensors all seem to be well-regarded. some inexpensive timing belt system kits seem to have no-name belts that won't last over 60K. I'd say proceed cautiously, try to use dealers that specialize in car parts and have both 3-4 digit or more number of sales and a rating over 95% or so. Always double check returns policies and if the part is stocked in the western hemisphere - or takes 3 weeks from overseas. be aware, there are on-line dealers that discount OEM parts too - subarugenuineparts.com , fredbeansparts.com , etc. And I have successfully had a local dealer match and 'almost' match prices from on-line dealers when challenged.

Since it seems a Subaru dealership is involved, I'd like to think you are driving on 4 tires all the same brand/model and wear? no - 'donut' spare - right?best thing, find a way to demonstrate the problem with a body shop guy inside. next, you could have a different dealership diagnose the car - document and save you receipt to show the other repair shop. a severe hit to the front side COULD damage the front differential or other internal trans parts. I'd suspect examining axles, lower control arm bushings and even exhaust parts would be in order. you can also contact the insurance company and take the adjuster for a test drive to demo the remaining problems.

normally I'd say yes but, i can't be certain how good the above diagnostics are so, i wouldn't rule-out some other kind of electrical problem. Are you sure you don't hear the pump? It will only cycle on for a few seconds when the key moves to ON. Just long enough to pressure the rails.

could just be time for a starter. They can be removed and tested at some parts stores i think.

do the headlights dim a lot when it fails starting, while cranking? does it always begin cranking or, sometimes, just click? If so, maybe the solenoid contacts are worn in the starter. Try whacking the starter with a piece of 2x4. If the car starts, you just need to rebuild the solenoid. Contact/plunger kits from ebay are affordable. check the cables - sometimes they corrode inside the insulation. Refresh the ground from the neg side of the battery too. Even feeling of them to see if they get hot, wiggling them a little while cranking to listen for changes in crank speed, etc. there are voltage tests you can do while idling, starting, etc. If nothing else, have a parts store double check the charging system - it may not be charging the battery. I'd expect a fuel supply problem would keep you from accelerating or driving up a hill - not just start.

I gotta say, it reads more like a bad battery or a charging issue. does it start normally if jumped? how old is the battery? can you take it, or the car, to a parts store and have them test the charging system?

not certain about black - but good chance those are only used for some type of diagnostic/reprogramming routine. (TCU ?) You may also find 2 green connectors - those are definitely used to cycle relays and fans as a test, and are 'normally' disconnected. someone will have better details.

^^^ tooth count is your friend. that's a shame that Mizumo put those kits out. There's a lot of pressure on suppliers to chase that guy that is flipping a car or claims they MUST have the cheapest parts. If you don't offer 'economy' parts, they take their biz elsewhere.

just to get this straight - the Mitsuboshi seem OK, but there is another belt, you call it generic, that seems to fail early? (I installed a M'boshi in my WRX) also, tell GD we miss him!

wow - glad that was it!

someone needs to get the car on a lift and look at the axle , bushings, differential, even inspect for a cracked spring, etc. basically, a trained eye should check it out. If possible, take the mechanic for a test drive and demonstrate the problem. details on car?

2 of those codes point to a problem with the O2 sensor (front or 'main') and the 0340 is a cam position sensor. You may have more that one problem but, with the cam pos code - one more reason to triple-check cam/crank timing. If you smelled something sweet - like toasted marshmallows, in the exhaust - I suppose it's possible a coolant leak nto a cylinder led to 'poisoning' the O2 sensor. I hope someone else with more experience will chime in. i suspect you will need to pin-down whether or not you have a headgasket leak or some odd way coolant is getting into the exhaust (sometimes, pulling plugs and comparing will find the bad cylinder as the coolant makes the plug look different). If that isn't addressed , you might destroy the next O2 sensor. Worth looking for wiring problems too - pinched or chewed cables or bad ground connections will sometimes cause multiple codes to be set.

you can run the engine with the covers off - if the belt is running true, tensioner is OK.

Blackstone or maybe Polaris Labs can do an oil analysis. I think increased aluminum would be piston slap, increased iron? yeah, probably from a bearing that's getting pounded. a bad/loose tensioner can let the timing belt slap around - it might mimic a knock.

could the rad fans be intermittent? When it overheats, are you cruising down the road or does it always happen at a stoplight/railroadXing/idling? bad fans will allow overheating at a stop or very slow speeds - on the highway - air is moving thru just fine. you might be able to 'map' the radiator with an infrared remote therm - maybe the radiator has cool areas because it's partly clogged. how old is the timing belt? maybe the car has slipped a tooth and is not running at correct crank/cam timing - or the back-side of the belt is glazed and the WP is slipping?