1 Lucky Texan

which cylinders report missing? bad coil almost always affect a pair of cylinders Look for pending codes how long since timng belt system was serviced? maybe the car slipped timing 1 or 2 teeth?. any work done before the CPS code was initially set? wrong crank sprocket or broken tabs on sprocket could be an issue - also, the ECU might get confused if a cam pos. sensor were bad? I have read one or 2 reports of debris collecting on crank sensors needing to be wiped off, the magnet inside collects bits of worn idler wheels/bearings and is intermittent......

if it includes the trans - final drive ratio of rear diff must match. probably move the ECU over and need to marry/merge some wiring. not trivial - but almost any swap you can think of has been done by someone somewhere. www.nasioc.com would be another good source for info. probably www.subaruforester.com worth a look too.

fair chance they will work, or some of them - someone else will know I hope. get the covers off and confirm that is where the problem is - I'm just guessing really. Maybe some part numbers on the idlers will match up with numbers on the kit you have for your 97? Seems likely it's a timing system problem but.....?

yeah - that timing SYSTEM needs to be serviced at either; 105K miles OR 105 months, whichever comes first. An 06 model was probably put on the road in 05 so - that's 120 months or more? you may not know you trashed the valves untill you re-time the engine - I suppose leak-down testing would tell you. you have options - all will cost money. Minimum is DIY the timing belt stuff - $150 - $250 dollars and a weekend. next worst is that PLUS head rebuild with some valves., OR, get an engine from a wreck put in - but that engine should get the timing belt stuff serviced too. If you are gonna hire it done, find a shop to test the valves before spending other money. compression/leak down 'should' tell you if just the timing service will get it back on the road.

you must look at the crank timing - ALL the marks must be on. Timing can slip with the belt OK. Crank timing AND cam timing must be correct - you have an interference engine. is this original timing gear? The toothed idler fails frequently when old - tensioner occasionally. Bad tensioner or idler can let the timing slip AND allow belt to slap around inside covers making racket. spark plug issue is weird......

did it overheat? is the radiator full (look in the rad) could be slipped timing and hitting some valves - how long since timing belt service? how loose was this loose plug???

I can 'almost' always tell when a battery is getting weak by the slighly slower-longer starts. A good parts store will have a load box or Midtronics device to test the battery in-car. of course, there can be issues with corroded terminals and cables - but a well-maintaned 06 may be too young for those issues to be severe. Same for the starter.(though, my 06 WRX's starter drags/'is slow to release the drive gear', in the cold - it still starts the car just fine)

yeah, if the terminals were tight and fairly corrosion free, you just need a rebuild kit installed for the contacts and maybe the plunger. Check ebay. If there WAS corrosion on the cables - that may have been the only problem. try not to use a hammer too vigorously - I think the magnets inside are brittle. better to just whack it with medium light force with a piece of wood. That is really not a longterm solution though, just to diagnose that the contacts are worn.

look for bubbles in the fluid while idling, have someone turn the wheel. you don't want bubbles.

if it is the ATF-HP stuff from Subaru, it could be red in color if still made by Idemitsu. (some say 2 different sources have made it so.....?) But, a fluid change is a good , DIY place to start. inexpensive compared to almost any other trans work. However, another concern might be whether someone has confused the front DIFF for the trans fill tube. It has happened before.

honestly, there may be 'diminishing returns' at altering your treatment of the car very much. Yeah, we can theorize about this or that change but, without sending fluids in to Blackstone or Polaris labs, examining plugs, throttle plate and maybe internals for deposits, etc. , hard to say exactly how to tweak the maintenance to optimize the lifespan of the car. A weekly/bi-weekly highway runas suggested above and not letting the car sit around for weeks with only 1/4 tank of gas might be the most 'practical' things you could do.

synthetic oil also keeps 'varnish' in solution better - expect your oil changes to look darker. I suppose if your spark plugs look normal, that may be an indicator that the low-use isn't building carbon on valves or elsewhere in the combustion chamber. recent guidelines on tires also discourage driving on old tires.

could be a hole in the condenser, or leaky schrader valves too.

Short trips are considered 'severe duty' and can be as bad for cars, in different ways, as off-road use, racing, or overloading with cargo. Is the car ever used for longer trips? On weekends? First, the maintenance schedule has a TIME side and you should do maintenance according to it. (exceptions 'might' be things like air filters and sparkplugs - but even fluids degrade over time - plus, with low usage like you experience, they collect moisture from condensation) you should also consider re-fueling before the car indicates empty - maybe at the half-way mark. I see nothing wrong with you idling the car a little longer and/or using a block heater - you will get poorer mileage, but you 'may' be less likely to carbon foul the plugs and engine oil may be better able to 'boil-off' any moisture collecting in it. If it hasn''t been done, you are WAY overdue for a timing belt service too.

a rack from a wreck should be a decent bet - very rare to read about problems with soob steering racks.

I'm not clicking that.

^^^ yep, next time it fails, whack the starter with a piece of 2x4. could be intermittent solenoid contacts.

2009 ? it may be in the tank., or maybe that's Imprezas. is the check engine light on? even if not, the pats store can scan for pending codes.

try tapping on it while idling - some have reported there is a common poor connection inside MAFs of certain year models. If idle changes while tapping it, maybe that would confirm the problem?

ok, 60mph is about - what? 22 - 2500 rpm? have someone rev and hold the car to that rpm while looking for bubbles in the reservoir. maybe even gently push-pull on the hose? any work/service done to the PS before this began? topped-off with 'generic' ps fluid? Is the fluid still red or does it look like coffee? You could try getting some fresh ATF in there.

if so, or bent rim is still suspect, swap front and rear tires - see if problem is better/gone.

check inside the radiator - don't rely on 'just' the mark on the o'flow tank. system can be pressure-tested. might confirm the waterpump. or bypass hose w'ever. wonder what the code was that triggered the CEL? misfire still?

I would expect a bent rim would have been caught by tire mounting techs. And it's hard to figure how it would be 'notchy' feeling in the wheel. can you describe this feeling better? does the tracking of the car change? is it some that happens only 2-3 times when turning the wheel? something that feels woodpecker-like in its repetition? (several pulses in a a coupla inches?)

it's kinda all guesswork - pay more money for the potential of longer-life and better performance? you might also look at the top-line batteries at O'reillys. they are AGM made by East Penn/DEKA.

interference engine, risky on the 2.5 to not replace the rollers in the TB system. The toothed idler is 'especially' prone to failure. you could test the thermostat on the stove, if it opens and closes smoothly at 170* F, re-use it. There is a Stant Xacstat that is OEM-style that is not crazy expensive. spark plugs are a little easier if you're also doing the VC gaskets. clean and re-use the PCV valve?